What have you done to your CX-5 today?

:
Montreal
:
2022 CX-5 GT
Dropped my car at the dealership. Not for the bumper replacement (as I got rear-ended) but for a transmission issue (when you shift between P-R, it makes a thump and jerks the car). Also MyMazda app didn't work.
Got the news 2 hours ago, they are replacing the transmission and it's back-ordered. So if I'm lucky that'll take 2-3 weeks, up to two months if I am not. At least the app works now :) if only I could use it.
6 months and 11500 kilometers since I got the car. The advisor at the dealership was quite nice, and I guess he was expecting a bad reaction from me when he said 2 months. Nothing he can do about it, why would I make a big deal out of it?
The only issue is that I don't have a loaner yet as the Enterprise nearby is out of cars. They need to get me a car before Friday, but I assume it's not super easy as I might need it for 2 months.
Right now I am driving a Prius C that I rented through an hourly-rental platform and the car is in horrible shape.
 

MadStyle

Member
:
2022 Mazda CX5
Dropped my car at the dealership. Not for the bumper replacement (as I got rear-ended) but for a transmission issue (when you shift between P-R, it makes a thump and jerks the car). Also MyMazda app didn't work.
Got the news 2 hours ago, they are replacing the transmission and it's back-ordered. So if I'm lucky that'll take 2-3 weeks, up to two months if I am not. At least the app works now :) if only I could use it.
6 months and 11500 kilometers since I got the car. The advisor at the dealership was quite nice, and I guess he was expecting a bad reaction from me when he said 2 months. Nothing he can do about it, why would I make a big deal out of it?
The only issue is that I don't have a loaner yet as the Enterprise nearby is out of cars. They need to get me a car before Friday, but I assume it's not super easy as I might need it for 2 months.
Right now I am driving a Prius C that I rented through an hourly-rental platform and the car is in horrible shape.
Wait 7,000 or so miles and transmission is shot already on a '22 model?
 
:
Montreal
:
2022 CX-5 GT
Wait 7,000 or so miles and transmission is shot already on a '22 model?
What's funny is that it drove just fine. The only issue was getting in reverse/getting out of park, although it was clearly a noticeable issue. To the point where it only took the tech around 15 seconds to replicate it.
I didn't think they would replace the entire transmission -- it was a surprise for me too. But from what I understand, if it's not resolved with a software update, dealerships don't really deal with transmissions. They outright replace them. I assume it makes it easier for them to see why they broke.
This is my first car so I can't talk about my own experience, but my parents have been driving for pretty much 40 years, they owned more than 50 cars and we've never had a transmission issue -- let alone a transmission replacement.
It's a 6-speed torque converter transmission that Mazda has been using for a decade now (with upgrades along the way of course), I think I am just unlucky.
I always make sure the car is fully stopped before I shift to P/R/D. The only transmission-related thing I do is to downshift sometimes when I am slowing down. Although that could be a contributing reason, it's in no way an unintended use-case for a transmission.
 
:
2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
Dropped my car at the dealership. Not for the bumper replacement (as I got rear-ended) but for a transmission issue (when you shift between P-R, it makes a thump and jerks the car). Also MyMazda app didn't work.
Got the news 2 hours ago, they are replacing the transmission and it's back-ordered. So if I'm lucky that'll take 2-3 weeks, up to two months if I am not. At least the app works now :) if only I could use it.
6 months and 11500 kilometers since I got the car. The advisor at the dealership was quite nice, and I guess he was expecting a bad reaction from me when he said 2 months. Nothing he can do about it, why would I make a big deal out of it?
The only issue is that I don't have a loaner yet as the Enterprise nearby is out of cars. They need to get me a car before Friday, but I assume it's not super easy as I might need it for 2 months.
Right now I am driving a Prius C that I rented through an hourly-rental platform and the car is in horrible shape.

I'm shocked, shocked I tell you, that the dealership hasn't claimed that your trans was damaged when your CX got rear-ended. How bad was the impact?
 
:
Montreal
:
2022 CX-5 GT
I'm shocked, shocked I tell you, that the dealership hasn't claimed that your trans was damaged when your CX got rear-ended. How bad was the impact?
The impact really wasn't bad enough to cause a transmission issue, but I thought maybe it could be the reason as well. I told them when I first went to the dealership that it started around a week after the accident, they didn't try to pull a quick one and say "oh a minor fender bender broke your transmission."
I even told them they can replace the bumper while the car is waiting for a new transmission, so it's not like I was trying to hide it. Either way I brought the car to them as they are the ones who are going to replace the bumper -- so I was also trying to get them to check the bumper and see if there could be any more damage. Now they have all the time in the world to do that.
Still no loaner though.
 

MadStyle

Member
:
2022 Mazda CX5
The impact really wasn't bad enough to cause a transmission issue, but I thought maybe it could be the reason as well. I told them when I first went to the dealership that it started around a week after the accident, they didn't try to pull a quick one and say "oh a minor fender bender broke your transmission."
I even told them they can replace the bumper while the car is waiting for a new transmission, so it's not like I was trying to hide it. Either way I brought the car to them as they are the ones who are going to replace the bumper -- so I was also trying to get them to check the bumper and see if there could be any more damage. Now they have all the time in the world to do that.
Still no loaner though.
From what I've gathered from several sites in regards to minor rear end collisions especially for AWD and RWD cars.
One of the most concerning issues is the possibility of transmission damage, which can be very expensive to repair. This is particularly true for vehicles with rear-wheel drive (RWD) or all-wheel drive (AWD) transmissions because essential components are located in the rear. In this case, even a very low-speed crash can lead to damage
 
:
Montreal
:
2022 CX-5 GT
From what I've gathered from several sites in regards to minor rear end collisions especially for AWD and RWD cars.
Perhaps. The dealership doesn't seem to think it's because of the accident. Anyways they are the ones who are supposed to replace the bumper. I assume they would need to deal with insurance if they change their mind and think it's an accident related issue.

They gave me my car back, apparently Mazda said there is absolutely no danger in driving the car like this. I don't have an issue with that.
 
:
Montreal
:
2022 CX-5 GT
As I got my car back, I decided once and for all to hardwire my Dashcam. I got quoted around $150 Canadian for a professional installation; decided I could do it on my own — at least try.
I have a VIOFO A129 Pro Duo and I’ve been meaning to get it hardwired since day 1. I didn’t have it on since I got the windshield tinted, so I got some 3M double-sided (exterior) tape to stick it. The built-in sticker was no longer adhesive.
I decided not to get a mirror adapter as one, I didn’t want to worry about draining my battery, and two there is an adapter for Viofos that (from my understanding) allows the camera to automatically go into parking mode when the car is off.
I followed a manual for CX9 dashcam installation as well as the Bogdan Berg write-up.
Getting the rear camera to work ended up being much easier than I initially thought. I routed the cable underneath the front door sill, and let it run freely under the passenger seat. I then got a little bit lazy and didn't remove the rear left door sill, instead tried to shove as much of the cable as possible underneath it to make sure it's not really visible. It worked. I then went up the rear left door seal and managed to hide it in between two trim pieces on the C pillar. That's when it was going to get complicated if I wanted to blindly follow Bogdan Berg's guidelines, but I decided to let some cable show. To me, it wasn't worth the hassle and I was scared the cable wouldn't be long enough.

Anyway, the bigger issue was tapping into the fuse box. It took me some time to figure out what kind of wire-a-circuit adapter I would need. Turns out it's a low-profile Mini, I had got a regular Mini instead. So I'm still powering the camera through a cigarette lighter socket, but at least the rear camera works.


Rear camera placement:
It's not great, and it's not covered by the wiper; but the cable was too short so I couldn't move it towards the middle. It took me around 2 hours to do everything (except tapping the fuse box) and I was getting tired towards the end, so I had initially decided to route the cable under the gasket but vertically. (So water would undoubtedly leak through there when it rains) Don't ask me why I did that, I don't know. I noticed that was stupid as I was taking pictures, and fixed it.
IMG_5206.JPG

Driver side C-pillar: Didn't need to remove any trim pieces, there was enough give for me to hide a cable in between.
IMG_5207.JPG

Driver-side C pillar, different angle
IMG_5210.JPG

Rear left door sill: Cable runs freely between front left door sill and rear left door sill. I could (and maybe will) clean this up by removing the door sill and routing underneath the rubber seal.
IMG_5208.JPG

Front left door sill: I could spend an extra 15-20 minutes to hide the cable better, but it's barely visible to begin with so I let it be for now.
IMG_5211.JPG


Driver's side A pillar: This took me some time to figure out. Initially I routed the cable above the trim, then I decided to remove the trim piece and route it properly.
IMG_5213.JPG

And the camera: Ignore the cable going down, it's temporarily there as I still need to tap the fuse box.
IMG_5214.JPG



I didn't want to pay a shop to do this for me because although it's obvious they would do a better job than I did, I believe I did an acceptable job and that I can improve it over time.

EDIT: This did the trick for the fuse box, and I managed to fully hardwire the dashcam.

PS: This isn't necessarily the best option. This video does a great job explaining how you should route cables from the dashcam to the fusebox and beyond. There was a weird rattle coming from somewhere (because of the dashcam cables), so I took the time to remove the A pillar completely and route the cables properly. Whether there are any rattles, time will tell -- I did a quick test drive and the noise seems to have disappeared.
 

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rockethead26

2019 CX-5 Reserve
:
N. Arizona @ 7000'
Updated my navigation maps with the latest Aug release. This is my 3rd and last free update with my original card's subscription which expires in mid November.
 
:
2017 Mazda 6 Sport
Dropped my car at the dealership. Not for the bumper replacement (as I got rear-ended) but for a transmission issue (when you shift between P-R, it makes a thump and jerks the car). Also MyMazda app didn't work.
Got the news 2 hours ago, they are replacing the transmission and it's back-ordered. So if I'm lucky that'll take 2-3 weeks, up to two months if I am not. At least the app works now :) if only I could use it.
6 months and 11500 kilometers since I got the car. The advisor at the dealership was quite nice, and I guess he was expecting a bad reaction from me when he said 2 months. Nothing he can do about it, why would I make a big deal out of it?
The only issue is that I don't have a loaner yet as the Enterprise nearby is out of cars. They need to get me a car before Friday, but I assume it's not super easy as I might need it for 2 months.
Right now I am driving a Prius C that I rented through an hourly-rental platform and the car is in horrible shape.
Seems like they should have tried to reflash the PCM and TCM first before going right to a transmission replacement
 
:
2019 CX-5 AWD
Only reason I asked is because someone posted that they bricked an eBay one when trying to update it (they are 1/10 the price of Mazda MSRP).
 
:
Montreal
:
2022 CX-5 GT
Seems like they should have tried to reflash the PCM and TCM first before going right to a transmission replacement
I don't know if they did, they kept the car for a day before telling me it needs to be replaced. They are going to do the replacement on Wednesday.
 
:
2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
Changed oil and for the first time the air filter.

Even though the CX is a 2016.5 I have under 36k miles on it and only put ~3k miles on it since last oil change. The year was up, and it was time for new oil.

Being retired and having other cars/motorcycle that needs to be driven, the CX doesn't get a lot of miles put on it. Neither do the others but they get the oil changed once a year at least. My MX gets driven the most but that's only during the warm weather months.
 
Last edited:
:
South Carolina
:
12 MZ5 13 CX-5
Installed a set of Michelin Defender T+H's at Sam's Club. $669 out the door, taxes, road hazard, everything. Quiet ride, too.
 
:
CX-5 Touring
As I got my car back, I decided once and for all to hardwire my Dashcam. I got quoted around $150 Canadian for a professional installation; decided I could do it on my own — at least try.
I have a VIOFO A129 Pro Duo and I’ve been meaning to get it hardwired since day 1. I didn’t have it on since I got the windshield tinted, so I got some 3M double-sided (exterior) tape to stick it. The built-in sticker was no longer adhesive.
I decided not to get a mirror adapter as one, I didn’t want to worry about draining my battery, and two there is an adapter for Viofos that (from my understanding) allows the camera to automatically go into parking mode when the car is off.
I followed a manual for CX9 dashcam installation as well as the Bogdan Berg write-up.
Getting the rear camera to work ended up being much easier than I initially thought. I routed the cable underneath the front door sill, and let it run freely under the passenger seat. I then got a little bit lazy and didn't remove the rear left door sill, instead tried to shove as much of the cable as possible underneath it to make sure it's not really visible. It worked. I then went up the rear left door seal and managed to hide it in between two trim pieces on the C pillar. That's when it was going to get complicated if I wanted to blindly follow Bogdan Berg's guidelines, but I decided to let some cable show. To me, it wasn't worth the hassle and I was scared the cable wouldn't be long enough.

Anyway, the bigger issue was tapping into the fuse box. It took me some time to figure out what kind of wire-a-circuit adapter I would need. Turns out it's a low-profile Mini, I had got a regular Mini instead. So I'm still powering the camera through a cigarette lighter socket, but at least the rear camera works.


Rear camera placement:
It's not great, and it's not covered by the wiper; but the cable was too short so I couldn't move it towards the middle. It took me around 2 hours to do everything (except tapping the fuse box) and I was getting tired towards the end, so I had initially decided to route the cable under the gasket but vertically. (So water would undoubtedly leak through there when it rains) Don't ask me why I did that, I don't know. I noticed that was stupid as I was taking pictures, and fixed it.
View attachment 312291
Driver side C-pillar: Didn't need to remove any trim pieces, there was enough give for me to hide a cable in between.
View attachment 312292
Driver-side C pillar, different angle
View attachment 312295
Rear left door sill: Cable runs freely between front left door sill and rear left door sill. I could (and maybe will) clean this up by removing the door sill and routing underneath the rubber seal.
View attachment 312293
Front left door sill: I could spend an extra 15-20 minutes to hide the cable better, but it's barely visible to begin with so I let it be for now.
View attachment 312300

Driver's side A pillar: This took me some time to figure out. Initially I routed the cable above the trim, then I decided to remove the trim piece and route it properly.
View attachment 312298
And the camera: Ignore the cable going down, it's temporarily there as I still need to tap the fuse box.
View attachment 312299


I didn't want to pay a shop to do this for me because although it's obvious they would do a better job than I did, I believe I did an acceptable job and that I can improve it over time.

EDIT: This did the trick for the fuse box, and I managed to fully hardwire the dashcam.

PS: This isn't necessarily the best option. This video does a great job explaining how you should route cables from the dashcam to the fusebox and beyond. There was a weird rattle coming from somewhere (because of the dashcam cables), so I took the time to remove the A pillar completely and route the cables properly. Whether there are any rattles, time will tell -- I did a quick test drive and the noise seems to have disappeared.
I have the Viofo 119 V3, was wondering to what fuse to tap it to. Did you found to what fuse we can use? And would it be for always on or turn off when car shuts off.