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- 2017 Mazda CX-5 GS AWD, 2017 Honda Pilot EX
Dropped the wife off at work and just drove around with the tunes cranked on a nice spring-like day. Still puts a smile on my face every time I drive it
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- 2017 Mazda CX-5 GS AWD, 2017 Honda Pilot EX
I've debated the armrest. There's times when I think I'd like to have it and other times when I think I'm alright not having it.
JasonJYoung
Member
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- 2016 Mazda CX-3
Extremely disappointed in the quality & design of armrest. Already came installed on CX-3 Grand Touring.
skylar2ups
Member
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- 2011 Mazda3 iSport
I just picked up my Touring last night and now I'm dreading adding the front license plate to my car.
Previously the 2008 Mazda 3 I had the front plate bracket didn't bother me. My 2011 Mazda 3 didn't have a front bracket at all (thanks Florida) but now I'm registering this car in Ohio and it's necessary.
I was wondering what you all thought of the bracket being attached via the tow hook? I'd rather none at all but just checking me options. And if anyone can point me in the right direction for a tow mount that will work with the CX-3 I'm be very thankful.
Also I'm interested in adding a roof rack and am doing my research but any recommendations are welcome.
Thanks and glad to be about of the family.
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Previously the 2008 Mazda 3 I had the front plate bracket didn't bother me. My 2011 Mazda 3 didn't have a front bracket at all (thanks Florida) but now I'm registering this car in Ohio and it's necessary.
I was wondering what you all thought of the bracket being attached via the tow hook? I'd rather none at all but just checking me options. And if anyone can point me in the right direction for a tow mount that will work with the CX-3 I'm be very thankful.
Also I'm interested in adding a roof rack and am doing my research but any recommendations are welcome.
Thanks and glad to be about of the family.
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- 2017 CX3 AWD
I changed my oil/filter today at 6.3K miles. Decided to switch to Idemitsu 5w30 and OEM filter. Here's a picture of a Royal Purple filter (L) next to a Mazda Thailand filter (R), both are new, the plastic cover on the Mazda was removed. Similar size, the main difference is the pink silicone diaphram on the RP filter to prevent drain-back. I learned in September that we don't need no diaphram, we don't need no drain control. The used filter is also RP and will get cut open this weekend.
Having read another forum discussion about synthetic oil, I am going to stick with shorter OCI (6K and hopefully 5K). Even if the oil/filter can last as long as 10K or even 20K, it is better to let the engine use cleaner oil/filter. How often do we change our bath towels? We won't get a rash if we wash it once every two months, but once a week is surely better for our skin.
Having read another forum discussion about synthetic oil, I am going to stick with shorter OCI (6K and hopefully 5K). Even if the oil/filter can last as long as 10K or even 20K, it is better to let the engine use cleaner oil/filter. How often do we change our bath towels? We won't get a rash if we wash it once every two months, but once a week is surely better for our skin.
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- 2017 CX3 AWD
I took the engine cover off today. Never considered doing so until I read a discussion here about rodents under the hood.
The white insulation material behind the cover is breaking down into dust particles. I don't see them settle on the engine, but they shed upon the lightest touch.
The cover doesn't seem to help keep debris out. I use a vacuum and toothbrush to clean the top side. It also doesn't seem to help direct air flow for cooling purposes, the insulation layer is puffy and leaves minimal space for air flow. I wonder if the debris can exit more freely without the cover.
It probably does help reduce the noise. I am ok with noise. On my MINI, I run a DIY short ram intake (no box or shield) that is quite loud.
There's no lining on my hood. I read somewhere about how the cover and lining help keep heat away from the hood to protect the paint. My paint is white. There are already two blemishes left by a metal object that bounced off the road. If the hood looks any worse, I will just cover it with a flexible solar panel.
Edit: The engine sounds the same without the cover. The removal did not impact water/oil/atf temperature on my 150+ miles drive.
The white insulation material behind the cover is breaking down into dust particles. I don't see them settle on the engine, but they shed upon the lightest touch.
The cover doesn't seem to help keep debris out. I use a vacuum and toothbrush to clean the top side. It also doesn't seem to help direct air flow for cooling purposes, the insulation layer is puffy and leaves minimal space for air flow. I wonder if the debris can exit more freely without the cover.
It probably does help reduce the noise. I am ok with noise. On my MINI, I run a DIY short ram intake (no box or shield) that is quite loud.
There's no lining on my hood. I read somewhere about how the cover and lining help keep heat away from the hood to protect the paint. My paint is white. There are already two blemishes left by a metal object that bounced off the road. If the hood looks any worse, I will just cover it with a flexible solar panel.
Edit: The engine sounds the same without the cover. The removal did not impact water/oil/atf temperature on my 150+ miles drive.
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- 2017 CX3 AWD
Replaced the pair of headlight bulbs (low beam) because the driver side is burnt out. Wanted oem (warm white) look and got exactly that. The low beams are the outer set of lights. Press down the tab on the electrical connector to pull it down. The few wires to the connector are not wrapped in tape (from factory) because the location does not provide a good footing for rodents to chew on these. I cut a short section of sleeve to wrap them anyway. Better safe than sorry if a turbo charged rat comes along.
Also replaced the intake air filter. Don't know how many miles I have on this one, but might as well put it in the same entry. While watching a YouTube video a few days ago someone commented that a dirty intake air filter is filtering out more debris, while a clean filter allows more debris to go through, basically the dirtier the better. For two seconds I thought that makes sense.
Also replaced the intake air filter. Don't know how many miles I have on this one, but might as well put it in the same entry. While watching a YouTube video a few days ago someone commented that a dirty intake air filter is filtering out more debris, while a clean filter allows more debris to go through, basically the dirtier the better. For two seconds I thought that makes sense.
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- 2017 CX3 AWD
Tried using this USB fluid transfer pump with the coolant. It has a soft hose to dump fluid and a skinny hose (with a section of soft hose as the lead) to draw fluid. It would have fit into any narrow diameter opening that is damn STRAIGHT.
The radiator cap sits on a short arm that extends from the radiator itself. The skinny hose is a bit too stiff to get in the L. I was only able to draw a small amount of coolant out. It was enough for me to add two oz of cooling agent. My other two street cars are both running distilled water mixed with cooling agents.
Then I tried to draw from the reservoir. Again, it is not a STRAIGHT shot from the cap, there's some barrier blocking the way. I tried aiming for the gap before poking the skinny hose randomly, hoping that it'd squeeze by the barrier. It worked and I got almost everything out from the reservoir. I don't think Mazda engineers wanted us to do this from the top.
I believe the pump will work with engine oil and ATF. I know that the ATF port to pan is straight. I hope there's nothing tricky down the oil dipstick hole. The skinny hose might not be able to pick up chunks of sludges though, if there's any.
How do you clean the pump? I was thinking if I have to buy one pump for each fluid (I.e., oil/ATF/coolant). I can also just pump a small amount of the different fluid to run it through and then dump that fluid. It's hard to tell how much fluid remains in the pump itself. The hose are easy.
My next ATF drain/fill will be with this pump.
The radiator cap sits on a short arm that extends from the radiator itself. The skinny hose is a bit too stiff to get in the L. I was only able to draw a small amount of coolant out. It was enough for me to add two oz of cooling agent. My other two street cars are both running distilled water mixed with cooling agents.
Then I tried to draw from the reservoir. Again, it is not a STRAIGHT shot from the cap, there's some barrier blocking the way. I tried aiming for the gap before poking the skinny hose randomly, hoping that it'd squeeze by the barrier. It worked and I got almost everything out from the reservoir. I don't think Mazda engineers wanted us to do this from the top.
I believe the pump will work with engine oil and ATF. I know that the ATF port to pan is straight. I hope there's nothing tricky down the oil dipstick hole. The skinny hose might not be able to pick up chunks of sludges though, if there's any.
How do you clean the pump? I was thinking if I have to buy one pump for each fluid (I.e., oil/ATF/coolant). I can also just pump a small amount of the different fluid to run it through and then dump that fluid. It's hard to tell how much fluid remains in the pump itself. The hose are easy.
My next ATF drain/fill will be with this pump.
