What did you pay for your CX-5?

HardRightEdg

US 2020 CX-5 Touring AWD Soul Red
Thank you for your comment
Actually, I came and ready to buy if they offer discount so we could discuss
Tomorrow , Monday i plan going to buy Mazda 6 or CX 5 Touring in
can you advise how much $ can i negotiate the price base on their price MSRP or selling price?
1. MAZDA CX-5 TOURING AWD MSRP : $30,030 ( included destination fee, color charge)

2. Mazda 6 Touring ( MSRP $28,070, selling price $27,070 they offer discount on website $1000)

i wonder how much can we offer Mazda dealer more discount? can you help t to suggest?
thank you very much
Happy Four of July to all of you
Mazda 6 is being discontinued in the US after the 2021 model year which probably explains why you're seeing $1000 cash back. Mazda would want them done and gone by the time 2022's hit the lots. You might have a shot at getting a dealer to take something more off MSRP. Or maybe not--the 6 was a low volume seller to begin with so there are not a lot hanging around. I would expect you'd get a decent deal on a 6 come fall on final clearance for whatever are left but the pickings will be slimmer yet. Good luck.
 
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:
2019 CX-5 Signature
Wow, it's like people aren't even reading the last few pages of the thread or being aware of current market conditions. Most dealers are still hurting for inventory. ...
What I find strange is even with the shortages, we're still seeing record sales numbers each month.

 
:
Phoenix
:
2020 CX5 signature
Thank you for your comment
Actually, I came and ready to buy if they offer discount so we could discuss
Tomorrow , Monday i plan going to buy Mazda 6 or CX 5 Touring in
can you advise how much $ can i negotiate the price base on their price MSRP or selling price?
1. MAZDA CX-5 TOURING AWD MSRP : $30,030 ( included destination fee, color charge)

2. Mazda 6 Touring ( MSRP $28,070, selling price $27,070 they offer discount on website $1000)

i wonder how much can we offer Mazda dealer more discount? can you help to suggest?
thank you very much
Happy Four of July to all of you
One of the problems, as I see it, is that the dealer already knows that you're going to buy something. Basically, you're now in a spot where the dealer tells you - "this is what you're going pay for the car"
 
Wow, it's like people aren't even reading the last few pages of the thread or being aware of current market conditions. Most dealers are still hurting for inventory. Please don't expect those 10% off msrp deals from 'the before times.' Even 5% off is rare right now as most dealers are holding to msrp because they don't have many cars to sell and need to make more on the ones they have to make up for it.
If demand was so high there wouldn’t be anything available. Patient people are still getting deals. Stop fearmongering.
 
What I find strange is even with the shortages, we're still seeing record sales numbers each month.

So maybe the dealers are opportunistic and are looking to profit as much as possible by exaggerating the situation…
 
:
2018 CX-5 Sport
Thank you for your comment
Actually, I came and ready to buy if they offer discount so we could discuss
Tomorrow , Monday i plan going to buy Mazda 6 or CX 5 Touring in
can you advise how much $ can i negotiate the price base on their price MSRP or selling price?
1. MAZDA CX-5 TOURING AWD MSRP : $30,030 ( included destination fee, color charge)

2. Mazda 6 Touring ( MSRP $28,070, selling price $27,070 they offer discount on website $1000)

i wonder how much can we offer Mazda dealer more discount? can you help to suggest?
thank you very much
Happy Four of July to all of you
If you are shopping for both models, the dealer will know you have 30,000 dollars to spend on the CX-5 so he knows you can afford the Mazda 6 and might leverage that. I would work on only one model at a time, the one you want the most.
 
:
2021 CX-5 GS
I'm from Canada. The dealer I bought my CX-5 from had 47 of them 3 weeks ago and now down to 25. May be harder to get big discounts off the MRSP when inventory is low.
 
On 6/10/21 I got a 21 cx-5 GTR snowflake white pearl with:
side rails,
cargo mat,
rear bumper guard and,
cargo cover
for $35,563 via Truecar “cash price”, msrp $37,655 and out the door of $39,245 in the East Bay in Cali.
 
Got a '21 Carbon Edition AWD Turbo a few weeks ago (including NC tax, registration, doc fees etc) for $33k out-the-door (cash price). Not eligible for any incentives. Waited a month and put deposit down in advance. I could have done better at end of May as Mazda was offering $1,000 Mazda cash so the price would have been $32k, but that car was sold before I could get to it. I think I did pretty good all things considered.
 
Is 7% off msrp for GT with package a deal for current situation? Some dealer provides 10% off but they are adding 2000+ adds on of tint and protection.
 
Pulled the trigger.

July 9, 2021
Dealer: Puyallup, WA Mazda
Trade: 2019 CX-5 GT, 20,733 miles, great condition
Black Book Trade Value Range: $24,105 - $28,175
2021 CX-5 GTR Price (only extra is roof racks and red paint charge) Invoice: $36,033
MSRP: $37,555
Price quoted: $1000 under invoice = $35,033 (there was another dealer that offered $1,400 under invoice - which would be $2,922 under MSRP but they offered $500 less on the trade)
Mazda Loyalty Cash = -$750
Price paid excluding tax an license: $34,283 + Doc Fee $150 = $34,433
So with doc fee I got $850 under invoice not including Loyalty Cash, $1,600 under invoice including Loyalty Cash or $3,122 under MSRP including the loyalty cash.
* If I didn't have a trade I could have gotten $2000 under invoice with loyalty cash or $3,522 under MSRP from the other dealer.
* Note these figures are all including the $150 doc fee

Trade price: $26,500 (Other trade offers I got from other dealers: $25,000, $26,000 and $26,175)
I told them I wanted more for the trade and suggested they throw in moving my trailer hitch from my old car to my new car. They agreed to install a brand new trailer hitch for free on the new car which if I had this done after I bought it would have cost me $450 in parts and labor so I consider the net trade price was $26,950 including a installed nre trailer hitch which got me well within 5% of my target trade price.

So difference between trade and new car with trailer hitch was $7,483 My target was $8000 or less (Invoice or $1,500 below MSRP on the new car and $27,000 on the trade). Northwest region isn't discounting as much as places like Florida so I'm glad I was able to beat my target.

If you don't have a trade then you just go for the lowest new car price obviously.

SOME SIDE NOTES:

Note that I used Checkbook.org's Car Bargains service which contacts the Fleet Sales Managers bypassing the commissioned salespeople, getting you the dealer's bottom line price on the new car. It's truly their bottom line price. It's well worth the money as it will definitely save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars and hours and hours of emails and phone calls. It is NOT the same as TruCar or Costco which are essentially lead generation services. They WILL get prices lower than the Costco price. Note they cannot get you the price on your trade. I just took the three lowest dealers, sent photos of my car and asked for trade price and then picked the one with the lowest price difference between the trade and the new price. My time is worth about $90/hr and I figure it would have taken me 10 hours to do what Checkbook did for me so at $225 for their service it was a bargain. The prices I got back from 6 dealers ranged from MSRP to $1,400 below invoice.


Also on the trade price, I can tell from 40 years experience buying and selling 29 new and used cars, Edmunds, KBB, and NADA Consumer are all aligned more with dealers than consumers. Their figures are low and the dealers LOVE them for doing that. Most Dealers use NADA or Black Book to determine used car values. BUT, the NADA numbers they use are NOT the same as the NADA numbers the NADA public consumer site spits out

In my opinion, Black Book is the best source as they use Manheim auction history which is where dealers sell used cars they won't keep on the lot and the second tier dealers buy their used cars from. But Black Book is a subscription service for the dealer not the consumer. You need to find a dealer that gives public access to their Black Book subscription. This GMC Dealer gives access to their Black Book Portal. Black Book prices can tend to be a little on the high side of what the dealer will actually get (so one could argue Edmunds/NADA aren't too far off then) So if you can get within 5% of what you think your value is in the Black Book range, that's a fair trade price. It's much more powerful though to bring in a BlackBook price to show the dealer than KBB or Edmunds as they know you know what's up if you are using BlackBook.

https://www.intelliprice.com/intellipricedealer/start.htm?dealerid=3045511#/trade/home

** The main thing to remember when you negotiate, if you have a trade, always negotiate the new car price first, and always have a target number on the difference between the trade and the new car. Only focus on that. The price on the new car and used car by themselves are useless. If your difference is $5000 you can pay $255,000 for the new car as long as the dealer gives you $250,000 on your trade. Tell them that. But don't tell them your bottom line from the start. They will ask what your target is first. The rule in negotiation is he who names a price first loses. But not necessarily if you are prepared. So tell them you need the difference between to be $3,000 and then let them haggle with you until you get them to your $5000 target. If they won't meet your target, WALK AWAY. You'll be surprised how many times they'll pull you back in and give you the deal or call you the next day and give you the deal.
 
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:
Phoenix
:
2020 CX5 signature
Yikers! Just to make the rest of you around the country not feel too bad. To buy a car at CardinaleWay Mazda at truly MSRP, you'd have to start by negotiating $2,700 off........

Per website inventory on each car.......

"Stop by CardinaleWay Mazda Mesa - "Where we develop outstanding relationships where everyone wins" - today! 6343 East Test Drive, Mesa AZ 85206. Plus government fees and taxes, $1,997.00 reconditioning fee, dealer installed equipment (Tint/Door Edge GRD, Nitrofil, 3 year paint, 2 year / 24 month maintenance), any finance charges, any electronic filing and dealer document processing charge $699.90. Only equipment basic to each model is listed. Call or email for complete, specific vehicle information."

That said, I've never been able to actually delete the DOC fee, but I have walked in to a deal and successfully said, "I'll buy the car at your sales price before you add the $1,800 in paint shield, security VIN etching, door trim". Now, all of this is BS, but how would they explain "reconditioning fee" on a new car? The $12 they pay the lot jockey to put free car wash scratches on your new car?

You think they'd let someone walk if they offered MSRP without the extra $1,997? It might be harder to negotiate the DOC $699 off the price.
 
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2021 CX-5 GS
I was negotiating based on total off the lot price. I got them lower the dealership fee which includes doc fee from 800 to 400. But at the end of the day, they probably took less of the MSRP. I had a price I would accept in mind and was able to get it after a few rounds of negotiations.
 
Yikers! Just to make the rest of you around the country not feel too bad. To buy a car at CardinaleWay Mazda at truly MSRP, you'd have to start by negotiating $2,700 off........

Per website inventory on each car.......

"Stop by CardinaleWay Mazda Mesa - "Where we develop outstanding relationships where everyone wins" - today! 6343 East Test Drive, Mesa AZ 85206. Plus government fees and taxes, $1,997.00 reconditioning fee, dealer installed equipment (Tint/Door Edge GRD, Nitrofil, 3 year paint, 2 year / 24 month maintenance), any finance charges, any electronic filing and dealer document processing charge $699.90. Only equipment basic to each model is listed. Call or email for complete, specific vehicle information."

That said, I've never been able to actually delete the DOC fee, but I have walked in to a deal and successfully said, "I'll buy the car at your sales price before you add the $1,800 in paint shield, security VIN etching, door trim". Now, all of this is BS, but how would they explain "reconditioning fee" on a new car? The $12 they pay the lot jockey to put free car wash scratches on your new car?

You think they'd let someone walk if they offered MSRP without the extra $1,997? It might be harder to negotiate the DOC $699 off the price.
Mazda dealerships in the valley nearly all doing this kind of thing. They provide 7~10% off MSRP. But they will charge you with tint and protection, so it will be only 800~1000 off from msrp.
 
Pulled the trigger.

July 9, 2021
Dealer: Puyallup, WA Mazda
Trade: 2019 CX-9, 20,733 miles, great condition
Black Book Trade Value Range: $24,105 - $28,175
2021 CX-5 GTR Price (only extra is roof racks and red paint charge) Invoice: $36,033
MSRP: $37,555
Price quoted: $1000 under invoice = $35,033 (there was another dealer that offered $1,400 under invoice - which would be $2,922 under MSRP but they offered $500 less on the trade)
Mazda Loyalty Cash = -$750
Price paid excluding tax an license: $34,283 + Doc Fee $150 = $34,433
So with doc fee I got $850 under invoice not including Loyalty Cash, $1,600 under invoice including Loyalty Cash or $3,122 under MSRP including the loyalty cash.
* If I didn't have a trade I could have gotten $2000 under invoice with loyalty cash or $3,522 under MSRP from the other dealer.
* Note these figures are all including the $150 doc fee

Trade price: $26,500 (Other trade offers I got from other dealers: $25,000, $26,000 and $26,175)
I told them I wanted more for the trade and suggested they throw in moving my trailer hitch from my old car to my new car. They agreed to install a brand new trailer hitch for free on the new car which if I had this done after I bought it would have cost me $450 in parts and labor so I consider the net trade price was $26,950 including a installed nre trailer hitch which got me well within 5% of my target trade price.

So difference between trade and new car with trailer hitch was $7,483 My target was $8000 or less (Invoice or $1,500 below MSRP on the new car and $27,000 on the trade). Northwest region isn't discounting as much as places like Florida so I'm glad I was able to beat my target.

If you don't have a trade then you just go for the lowest new car price obviously.

SOME SIDE NOTES:

Note that I used Checkbook.org's Car Bargains service which contacts the Fleet Sales Managers bypassing the commissioned salespeople, getting you the dealer's bottom line price on the new car. It's truly their bottom line price. It's well worth the money as it will definitely save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars and hours and hours of emails and phone calls. It is NOT the same as TruCar or Costco which are essentially lead generation services. They WILL get prices lower than the Costco price. Note they cannot get you the price on your trade. I just took the three lowest dealers, sent photos of my car and asked for trade price and then picked the one with the lowest price difference between the trade and the new price. My time is worth about $90/hr and I figure it would have taken me 10 hours to do what Checkbook did for me so at $225 for their service it was a bargain. The prices I got back from 6 dealers ranged from MSRP to $1,400 below invoice.


Also on the trade price, I can tell from 40 years experience buying and selling 29 new and used cars, Edmunds, KBB, and NADA Consumer are all aligned more with dealers than consumers. Their figures are low and the dealers LOVE them for doing that. Most Dealers use NADA or Black Book to determine used car values. BUT, the NADA numbers they use are NOT the same as the NADA numbers the NADA public consumer site spits out

In my opinion, Black Book is the best source as they use Manheim auction history which is where dealers sell used cars they won't keep on the lot and the second tier dealers buy their used cars from. But Black Book is a subscription service for the dealer not the consumer. You need to find a dealer that gives public access to their Black Book subscription. This GMC Dealer gives access to their Black Book Portal. Black Book prices can tend to be a little on the high side of what the dealer will actually get (so one could argue Edmunds/NADA aren't too far off then) So if you can get within 5% of what you think your value is in the Black Book range, that's a fair trade price. It's much more powerful though to bring in a BlackBook price to show the dealer than KBB or Edmunds as they know you know what's up if you are using BlackBook.

https://www.intelliprice.com/intellipricedealer/start.htm?dealerid=3045511#/trade/home

** The main thing to remember when you negotiate, if you have a trade, always negotiate the new car price first, and always have a target number on the difference between the trade and the new car. Only focus on that. The price on the new car and used car by themselves are useless. If your difference is $5000 you can pay $255,000 for the new car as long as the dealer gives you $250,000 on your trade. Tell them that. But don't tell them your bottom line from the start. They will ask what your target is first. The rule in negotiation is he who names a price first loses. But not necessarily if you are prepared. So tell them you need the difference between to be $3,000 and then let them haggle with you until you get them to your $5000 target. If they won't meet your target, WALK AWAY. You'll be surprised how many times they'll pull you back in and give you the deal or call you the next day and give you the deal.

Fantastic deal!! I’m also looking to get into a 2021 CX-5 in the Seattle area, thinking mainly about Carbon Edition Turbo, dealers around me said the next shipment is mid-to-late August. I thought that a GTR was outside my budget, but with your info I’d look into it for sure! I don’t have a car to trade in.

Would you mind sharing the info on the GTRs that you were quoted? You had one at 1250$ under invoice (without Loyalty bonus, but with Doc Fee?). I might just buy that one!

Thank you!
 
:
2017 Mazda 6 Sport
Pulled the trigger.

July 9, 2021
Dealer: Puyallup, WA Mazda
Trade: 2019 CX-9, 20,733 miles, great condition
Black Book Trade Value Range: $24,105 - $28,175
2021 CX-5 GTR Price (only extra is roof racks and red paint charge) Invoice: $36,033
MSRP: $37,555
Price quoted: $1000 under invoice = $35,033 (there was another dealer that offered $1,400 under invoice - which would be $2,922 under MSRP but they offered $500 less on the trade)
Mazda Loyalty Cash = -$750
Price paid excluding tax an license: $34,283 + Doc Fee $150 = $34,433
So with doc fee I got $850 under invoice not including Loyalty Cash, $1,600 under invoice including Loyalty Cash or $3,122 under MSRP including the loyalty cash.
* If I didn't have a trade I could have gotten $2000 under invoice with loyalty cash or $3,522 under MSRP from the other dealer.
* Note these figures are all including the $150 doc fee

Trade price: $26,500 (Other trade offers I got from other dealers: $25,000, $26,000 and $26,175)
I told them I wanted more for the trade and suggested they throw in moving my trailer hitch from my old car to my new car. They agreed to install a brand new trailer hitch for free on the new car which if I had this done after I bought it would have cost me $450 in parts and labor so I consider the net trade price was $26,950 including a installed nre trailer hitch which got me well within 5% of my target trade price.

So difference between trade and new car with trailer hitch was $7,483 My target was $8000 or less (Invoice or $1,500 below MSRP on the new car and $27,000 on the trade). Northwest region isn't discounting as much as places like Florida so I'm glad I was able to beat my target.

If you don't have a trade then you just go for the lowest new car price obviously.

SOME SIDE NOTES:

Note that I used Checkbook.org's Car Bargains service which contacts the Fleet Sales Managers bypassing the commissioned salespeople, getting you the dealer's bottom line price on the new car. It's truly their bottom line price. It's well worth the money as it will definitely save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars and hours and hours of emails and phone calls. It is NOT the same as TruCar or Costco which are essentially lead generation services. They WILL get prices lower than the Costco price. Note they cannot get you the price on your trade. I just took the three lowest dealers, sent photos of my car and asked for trade price and then picked the one with the lowest price difference between the trade and the new price. My time is worth about $90/hr and I figure it would have taken me 10 hours to do what Checkbook did for me so at $225 for their service it was a bargain. The prices I got back from 6 dealers ranged from MSRP to $1,400 below invoice.


Also on the trade price, I can tell from 40 years experience buying and selling 29 new and used cars, Edmunds, KBB, and NADA Consumer are all aligned more with dealers than consumers. Their figures are low and the dealers LOVE them for doing that. Most Dealers use NADA or Black Book to determine used car values. BUT, the NADA numbers they use are NOT the same as the NADA numbers the NADA public consumer site spits out

In my opinion, Black Book is the best source as they use Manheim auction history which is where dealers sell used cars they won't keep on the lot and the second tier dealers buy their used cars from. But Black Book is a subscription service for the dealer not the consumer. You need to find a dealer that gives public access to their Black Book subscription. This GMC Dealer gives access to their Black Book Portal. Black Book prices can tend to be a little on the high side of what the dealer will actually get (so one could argue Edmunds/NADA aren't too far off then) So if you can get within 5% of what you think your value is in the Black Book range, that's a fair trade price. It's much more powerful though to bring in a BlackBook price to show the dealer than KBB or Edmunds as they know you know what's up if you are using BlackBook.

https://www.intelliprice.com/intellipricedealer/start.htm?dealerid=3045511#/trade/home

** The main thing to remember when you negotiate, if you have a trade, always negotiate the new car price first, and always have a target number on the difference between the trade and the new car. Only focus on that. The price on the new car and used car by themselves are useless. If your difference is $5000 you can pay $255,000 for the new car as long as the dealer gives you $250,000 on your trade. Tell them that. But don't tell them your bottom line from the start. They will ask what your target is first. The rule in negotiation is he who names a price first loses. But not necessarily if you are prepared. So tell them you need the difference between to be $3,000 and then let them haggle with you until you get them to your $5000 target. If they won't meet your target, WALK AWAY. You'll be surprised how many times they'll pull you back in and give you the deal or call you the next day and give you the deal.
I've never heard of any Mazda dealer having a 'Fleet' dept. When I worked for different Chevy/GMC dealers, absolutely. But at least in TX, no Mazda dealer has one.

What trim level and drivetrain was your CX9 trade in?
 
I made a typo. I traded a CX-5 GT not a CX-9 GT. So bottom line, with the free hitch, I basically got $26,900 on the trade and $1000 under invoice on the 21 GTR. I have since seen another Black Book source that was showing $29K Clean Trade on a 19 CX-5 GT with 20K miles. I had little equity since it was a lease so there wasn't any tax savings. Since I got better than the minimum target deal I would have agreed to, and the other dealers offered $25 and $26.0K on the trade, I decided to not haggle hard on the trade price. Getting a trade equivalent to 89% the brand new price I got after driving the car for 2.5 years, was satisfactory especially considering the lease buy out price was 74% the original value. Applied the $750 Loyalty Cash and $500 deposit to the down payment and have a check for $3,900 coming to me when getting out of a lease 5 months early and driving off in a new 21 GTR with finance payments only $145 more a month than my lease payments were on the GT were. I'm happy. :)
 
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