What did you do to your Mazda2 today?

This was my symptom on my 2011 “2” I pulled the unit out and took it apart. On the top of the main board, really close to the output amplifier mounted on the side, there’s three large resistors that need resoldered. They crack their joints through the hot and cold cycles. Once they are resoldered, reassemble and reinstall in the dash. I didn’t remove the main board from the chassis box it’s mounted in, just removed the cd deck from on top and carefully unplugged the ribbon wire connecting it to the main board. Here’s a picture of the board and the three resistors. I touched up some other solder joints, but that was just preventative.
Thanks Techdude. I will check it out.
 
This was my symptom on my 2011 “2” I pulled the unit out and took it apart. On the top of the main board, really close to the output amplifier mounted on the side, there’s three large resistors that need resoldered. They crack their joints through the hot and cold cycles. Once they are resoldered, reassemble and reinstall in the dash. I didn’t remove the main board from the chassis box it’s mounted in, just removed the cd deck from on top and carefully unplugged the ribbon wire connecting it to the main board. You can leave the CD deck in place, I removed it so I could inspect other solder joints on the board. The three resistors are actually on the opposite side from the deck. Here’s a picture of the board and the three resistors. I touched up some other solder joints, but that was just preventative.
I replaced our unit with an aftermarket touch screen unit with Android auto, but at some point I'll take the original apart and troubleshoot the intermittent issue. They disassemble surprisingly easy.
 
Had a clear out of leaves and debris from behind the front wings.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20230727_075656_WhatsApp.jpg
    Screenshot_20230727_075656_WhatsApp.jpg
    210.1 KB · Views: 64
I installed a 1-1/4 receiver and a plug-and-play trailer lighting kit, and fabricated a custom bracket to hold a panel-mount lighting connector that bolts to the end of the receiver.
 

Attachments

  • Image Hitch Receiver.jpg
    Image Hitch Receiver.jpg
    61.2 KB · Views: 51
  • Image Whip.jpg
    Image Whip.jpg
    75.3 KB · Views: 52
Installed new rear springs and shocks.
Now trying to remove the rear door panel...stuck at how to remove the door latch handle and lock (a 2012 2).
 
Installed new rear springs and shocks.
Now trying to remove the rear door panel...stuck at how to remove the door latch handle and lock (a 2012 2).
How did the spring replacement go? We need to do the same after new struts on the front.

Doesn't the rear handles come off the same as the front? Remove the middle cover with a thin plastic shim to expose the screw? Either that or it slides forward to release it from slots.
 
Straightforward enough...supported the vehicle weight on the jack locations and let the rear arms swing down and unload the springs....could remove the springs by hand. Used a spring compressor to reinstall, though maybe they could be levered into position.

I think a spring compressor is a must for the front struts, although I've never replaced those!

Appreciate the suggestion for the rear handles. Will give it a try.
 
Straightforward enough...supported the vehicle weight on the jack locations and let the rear arms swing down and unload the springs....could remove the springs by hand. Used a spring compressor to reinstall, though maybe they could be levered into position.

I think a spring compressor is a must for the front struts, although I've never replaced those!

Appreciate the suggestion for the rear handles. Will give it a try.
I'm going to buy pre-assembled struts. There are other wear parts and it's a lot easier than piecing together old and new parts and trying to compress the spring.
 
Hey everybody! Just bought a '13 Mazda Touring with under 100k miles and stumbled across you all. Lurked all day yesterday, seeing what people are doing to their 2s. Mine's black and named 'El Frijole'. Today, 2 MAJOR mods: 1) a cd slot phone holder and 2) an IKEA chip clip to hold up the belt buckle. Note the stylish red to match the seat piping!

2phoneholder.jpg


2beltclip.jpg
 
Did the Android Auto / Apple Carplay upgrade to our 2015 Mazda2 over the weekend.

This is the unit I purchased

USB Retrofit kit

Firmware update took about 2hrs and then fitting the usb kit about 1hr. A worthy upgrade.

20230924_115733.jpg
20230924_144122.jpg
20230924_164922.jpg
20230924_165200.jpg
 
Last edited:
Tore apart the center console to fix the radio of a 2011 Mazda2 Yozora edition, as per this thread: 2011 Mazda2 Sport - No Sound from Speakers?

The soldering only took 5 minutes, but taking apart all the plastic covers and screws and putting it back together took hours. Sorry I didn't take any pics other than this one.
 

Attachments

  • Disconnected radio.jpg
    Disconnected radio.jpg
    122 KB · Views: 34
This was my symptom on my 2011 “2” I pulled the unit out and took it apart. On the top of the main board, really close to the output amplifier mounted on the side, there’s three large resistors that need resoldered. They crack their joints through the hot and cold cycles. Once they are resoldered, reassemble and reinstall in the dash. I didn’t remove the main board from the chassis box it’s mounted in, just removed the cd deck from on top and carefully unplugged the ribbon wire connecting it to the main board. You can leave the CD deck in place, I removed it so I could inspect other solder joints on the board. The three resistors are actually on the opposite side from the deck. Here’s a picture of the board and the three resistors. I touched up some other solder joints, but that was just preventative.
So I finally got around to buying a soldering iron and did what you suggested and it worked.

Thanks very much. Took me longer to pull the radio out and in than it did to run the soldering iron over the welds.
 
5W40 Full Synth GTL Oil & Z436 Filter
Checked front brake pads, removed calipers & cleaned brass shims
New Brake Fluid, bled all calipers/cylinders
Checked engine sump gasket for seepage
Cleaned underside of motor sump & joints plus underside of auto transmission sump & joints
Tyre rotation
Wire brush cleaned rust off front of Disk Rotor Hub interface to Rims, light coating with white waterproof grease
Noted: hma2auto.com/engine_tune_up-1077
Review OBDII PIDs
 

Attachments

  • 2024_03_29 175944kms Oil Spread on Paper Towel.png
    2024_03_29 175944kms Oil Spread on Paper Towel.png
    107.7 KB · Views: 9
Last edited:
Back