What could make the turbo hold to redline?

[Karma_hunden]

Will a catless DP and a catback exh. do the job? or will i have to get a boost controller? IC upgrade?

 

[vert]

From what I have read, a MBC is a must.

 

[jcgemt2003]

The only thing that will truely work is A BIGGER TURBO...or some tuning. Im pretty sure that the problem is the wastegate. Some say that a MBC will work but It hasnt been proven to be effective via a Dyno.

 

[DotNet]

Will hit fuel cut if you go 1.7 psi more...Don't get a boost controller. the Mazdaspeed 6 ecu is configured to taper down after 5500 rpm. The Throttle plate closes, and the boost drops after 4000 rpm. Read the cp-e tuning solution it should explain what your next steps should be. Mazda didn't want there stuff to break under warranty and it shows with the factory tune and piping restrictions. I would say get a tuning solution. The Downpipe/exhaust/intake will help greatly open up the car untill redline but not nearly like it should if you could reflash the ecu to run like a true turbo car. In the MS6 the factory tune stops the boost by throwing all kinds of changes at it to stop the power from its potential.

I assume MBC means Manual Boost Controller but I didn't break out my Acronym guide...

 

[ademan]

(ughdance) nitrous FTW

 

[Redlinez]

The new ATP boost defender or whatever it's called for $75. They told me 40whp and 50-60wtq on a stock car. Hmmm...... They're supposedly reputable and the first to offer an upgraded turbo complete. Revision, now he said with a inlet pipe and DP I should see those gains.

 

[Karma_hunden]

hm
interesting comments. so, is a Boost Controller necessary?

 

[ssinstaller]

15.7 psi at redline is way outside this turbo compressor map(http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2923328&postcount=8). You might be able to get it to hold, but your boost air temps will be horrible and you'll probably kill the turbo very quickly.

And, the ATP boost defender/map clamp is a perfect way to blow your motor up if you dont have a wideband O2 guage..It's a poor bandaid to a problem that can only be reliably fixed with a real tuning solution...

If you want to get a little more boost and not beat the hell out of the stock turbo, replace the stock topmount with something with a little less pressure drop--the turbo won't be working any harder, but you wont be wasting 2~3 psi across the IC core.. A boost controller is not necessary, you'll see more boost just by replacing the IC..

 

[Redlinez]

One question. Why are so many reporting issues with a top mount IC upgrade only?

 

[Killer]

hm
interesting comments. so, is a Boost Controller necessary?

(inout)

Will hit fuel cut if you go 1.7 psi more...Don't get a boost controller. the Mazdaspeed 6 ecu is configured to taper down after 5500 rpm. The Throttle plate closes, and the boost drops after 4000 rpm. Read the cp-e tuning solution it should explain what your next steps should be. Mazda didn't want there stuff to break under warranty and it shows with the factory tune and piping restrictions. I would say get a tuning solution. The Downpipe/exhaust/intake will help greatly open up the car untill redline but not nearly like it should if you could reflash the ecu to run like a true turbo car. In the MS6 the factory tune stops the boost by throwing all kinds of changes at it to stop the power from its potential.

I assume MBC means Manual Boost Controller but I didn't break out my Acronym guide...