What can i do to 3k

telling us what is already done to your msp would help or it is complete stock?
 
Assuming you're hell bent on spending all $3k on your car, I won't try to talk you into investing some of it or whatever. Instead...

In no particular order: (all prices are estimates)

Unichip $500

TBE (tons to choose from) $1k

CAI $250

Colder Plugs $50

Upgraded TMIC $400

Turbotimer $100

AXR Clunk Bracket $200


That leaves you with about $500 left to cover the installation. If you're gonna do it yourself, consider 'investing' in a new LSD. I don't want to be negative so I'll just leave it at that.
 
Stage 1 clutch

Updated and welded LSD

Intake (sri or cai)

3" turbo back exhaust or cut-out

medium sized core FMIC or SMIC upgrade w/ hardpipes

Unichip or SSAFC

Might as well address some weak points right away...AKA LSD, SMIC and pipes, tune.
 
HARD PIPES AND UPGRADED INTERCOOLER
(or Frontmount)
3" turbo back exhaust (custom made is around 1 grand)
CoilOvers!
Welded LSD

ANd the rest left over buy yourself a nice dinner.
 
the car has currently 104k and still runs strong i am about to also do some maintenance anything mind i should change
 
oh damn... in that case, welded LSD all the way. getting stranded with a dead battery in the middle of winter is one thing. those can be jumped. but when (not if) your LSD s**** the bed... you'll need to get towed and you'll be without a car for a few days. Be proactive and get one now.
 
yeah get the LSD changed. Go with a M-factory. They are not much more than a revised welded LSD. Then go with a intake, fmic, and SS AFC. get the AFC used and the intake and fmic if you can. also get a good mid pipe.
 
i agree with them get your LSD changed.. that happened to me and i was withuot my MSP for a week
 
Well i guess i'll put that money to the side for just in case it goes bad but i never had major problems and is a daily drive... any suggestions on FMIC that are out there
 
Exhaust - There are currently NO full 3" TBEs available. Get a midpipe back 3" if you can and wait for a 3" downpipe to complete. ThePope is currently working on one. Otherwise, go with the 2.5" CorkSport power series downpipe and catback.

Intake - Injen is kind of the most common one. There's one in the FS section right now.

FMIC - I wouldn't waste my money on a side mount.. and there is no such thing as a TMIC for the Protege. The Corksport kit is nice and relatively inexpensive.

Good BOV to replace the leaky stock BPV - HKS SSQV is #1 in my opinion, although I have the GReddy Type S on mine (recirculated instead of vent to atmosphere). Recirculating is better for your turbo, but you'll need to modify the intake and weld on a 1" recirc fitting.. otherwise you will still get the gobble like you do with the stock BPV.

Engine management - SS AFC or Unichip are fine with the stock turbo. I like the AFC cuz you can tune it yourself and there is a lot of member support.

Transmission - As others have stated, the LSD is a known weak point of these cars. It would be wise to replace it with either the MFactory or a newly revised and WELDED stock one (make sure it's NEW, no used welded LSDs). And I would say while you have the tranny dropped for LSD replacement, put in a new clutch while you're at it. Possibly replace the clutch line with a stainless one and put in some nice gear oil. Redline MT90 is what a lot of people go with.

As for coilovers, I would advise against them if this is your daily driver. Stock MSP suspension is more than plenty for the street. If the clunk of the rear swaybar bothers your, get the AXR kit and leave the suspension alone.

Good luck :)
 
Exhaust - There are currently NO full 3" TBEs available. Get a midpipe back 3" if you can and wait for a 3" downpipe to complete. ThePope is currently working on one. Otherwise, go with the 2.5" CorkSport power series downpipe and catback.

Intake - Injen is kind of the most common one. There's one in the FS section right now.

FMIC - I wouldn't waste my money on a side mount.. and there is no such thing as a TMIC for the Protege. The Corksport kit is nice and relatively inexpensive.

Good BOV to replace the leaky stock BPV - HKS SSQV is #1 in my opinion, although I have the GReddy Type S on mine (recirculated instead of vent to atmosphere). Recirculating is better for your turbo, but you'll need to modify the intake and weld on a 1" recirc fitting.. otherwise you will still get the gobble like you do with the stock BPV.

Engine management - SS AFC or Unichip are fine with the stock turbo. I like the AFC cuz you can tune it yourself and there is a lot of member support.

Transmission - As others have stated, the LSD is a known weak point of these cars. It would be wise to replace it with either the MFactory or a newly revised and WELDED stock one (make sure it's NEW, no used welded LSDs). And I would say while you have the tranny dropped for LSD replacement, put in a new clutch while you're at it. Possibly replace the clutch line with a stainless one and put in some nice gear oil. Redline MT90 is what a lot of people go with.

As for coilovers, I would advise against them if this is your daily driver. Stock MSP suspension is more than plenty for the street. If the clunk of the rear swaybar bothers your, get the AXR kit and leave the suspension alone.

Good luck :)
I agree with fox on everything except the FMIC. if your staying under10psi and not going with a Turbolife FMIC setup, then a CustomMSP SMIC will do you just fine with hard pipes. No Coilovers but if you fancy a lowered look then get some springs.also if your doing the LSD then I would replace the clutch and flywheel. and don't forget the gauges to monitor everything.
I would say that a boost, oil pressure, and wideband are a must.
 
I'm sure some of you will disagree with me but to be completely honest, I don't think putting 3k into a car with over 100,000 miles on it is a good idea. The blue book value of your car can't be significantly higher than that to begin with. Putting that money into the car won't increase the value at all, it will actually probably slightly decrease the value. These engines have been known to go - and the turbos too - sometimes without notice. That 3k might come in handy when your motor pops sometime down the road. My advice is call up your stock broker and sit on that cash. Maybe later on you could sell the MSP and get a car with more potential to build - or with lower miles - or rear wheel drive. To me, its not worth having a car with that many miles with that kind of cash dumped into it.
 
its a BONUS, enjoy it, do what is gonna give you the greatest joy, and if thats modding the msp DO IT!!!

I would suggest
S.S. afc(not unichip as you have to take it somewhere to get it tuned)
welded or completely new lsd
coilovers
and if enough is left over FMIC or upgraded side mount

might have to give or take a thing or two as i haven't looked at 3rd gen stuff in a while
 
im in disagreement with everyone right now - but my opinion all depends on how long you plan to keep it and how deep you want to get with mods.
if i had a 3k check and i was going to spend it on my car today, id buy a forged engine. 3k might not get me all the way there but it would be close. then the 100k miles no longer matters and i can replace the rest at my leisure. you could do all the small stuff now and probably make more power than if you went with a forged block, but you could blow it all to s*** in 2 months if you dont have a good tune... and then you're really screwed.
bit by bit you can do the rest a grand at a time - i.e. big turbo would be a grand, all the trans work would be a grand, intake/exhaust/mani's would be a grand, and fuel control, FMIC and the rest of the supporting mods would be a grand. at that point youre 6-7k deep into this car, but it would probably run close to 12 second 1/4's and you wouldn't have to worry about the engine going bad at any point in the process.

thats just my .02. if i crack a diff or wreck a turbo or clutch i could find a grand, but if i blow an engine it would take some time to find the cash.
so yeah, all in how long you want to keep it...
 
im in disagreement with everyone right now - but my opinion all depends on how long you plan to keep it and how deep you want to get with mods.
if i had a 3k check and i was going to spend it on my car today, id buy a forged engine. 3k might not get me all the way there but it would be close. then the 100k miles no longer matters and i can replace the rest at my leisure. you could do all the small stuff now and probably make more power than if you went with a forged block, but you could blow it all to s*** in 2 months if you dont have a good tune... and then you're really screwed.
bit by bit you can do the rest a grand at a time - i.e. big turbo would be a grand, all the trans work would be a grand, intake/exhaust/mani's would be a grand, and fuel control, FMIC and the rest of the supporting mods would be a grand. at that point youre 6-7k deep into this car, but it would probably run close to 12 second 1/4's and you wouldn't have to worry about the engine going bad at any point in the process.

thats just my .02. if i crack a diff or wreck a turbo or clutch i could find a grand, but if i blow an engine it would take some time to find the cash.
so yeah, all in how long you want to keep it...

Fully built block will cost ya around 3k to do it yourself, but around 3500$ for someone else to do it for you, but Honestly if I would go that far I would just save more up and get the head done and get staged cams and ported intake mani, and then you NEED the supporting mods cause its useless without them.
 
yes, but at least you won't trash the block until then. id think forged with the stock POS IC etc would be good for at least 10psi, no?
 

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