I'm running 2.0mm toe out in the front and 0.5mm toe out in the rear. I do not have adjustable camber plates (front) or arms (rear). There is a bit of adjustment (maybe 0.3 or so?) in the stock front strut mounts, I have them pushed all the way inboard for -1.2deg left and -0.8 right. Not sure why the difference side-to-side, just variation in the vehicle I guess. The rear is -0.9deg both sides.
Turn-in yaw rate, and road holding are very good with these settings. I would definitely prefer about -2.0deg camber in the front, or even more for autocross. I'm only autocrossing the vehicle for fun at the moment, once I install the turbo, I actually think I will stop autocrossing this vehicle and go back to my toy/project car e30. At that point, I may ease off the alignment somewhat, something like 1.0mm toe out front, and 0 toe rear. Because the primary role of the vehicle is DD, I'm not interested in camber plates for the front to get more camber - I may slot the mounting holes one or two mm to get an extra half degree. Or not.
I set this alignment about 3k miles ago and have been keeping a very close eye on tire wear, but really I see nothing yet (inner edges are not starting to smooth, square, or feather for example). If I start to see accelerated tire wear, I will back off ( to the 1.0 / 0.0 FR/RR mentioned above)
The car is *slightly* more reactive to heavy crosswinds. Surprisingly there is no wandering at highway speeds. With the VSC on, I have no concerns about the aggressive alignment being a safety issue - the VSC steps in and arrests any yaw quickly. Driving with VSC off, making a panic stop, in wet conditions, with an untrained driver - *may* be unsafe theoretically with a bit of rear toe out. But I'm the only driver, I live in dry San Antonio, and I rarely turn off the VSC when DD'ing. So I honestly do not foresee any potential issue.