Weight Reduction

Speedy3

Member
Contributor
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2007 Cosmic Blue MS3
Well, I removed some parts and weighed them. I guess, I was looking for some quick performance, but here are the totals:

Hood: 39 lbs
Rear seat back: 35.5 lbs
Rear seat bottom: 12.5 lbs
Jack, jack tool, lug wrench, spare tire, foam (holds tools), foam (circle for spare), bolts for rear seat back, and rear deck cover: 22 lbs
Spare tire: 32.5 lbs

So, removing the back half of the lower interior equates to about 102.5 lbs. Hmmm, I guess Mazda made verything as light as possible because that doesn't seem like much weight. It does feel a bit quicker though (boom07) (left the hood on of course). Anyways, this is just for informative purposes.
 
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I you want real perfomance.

Remove the A/C and Power Steering.. :)

That will not only free up weight, but HP
 
cause now he wants to sell all the parts he removed... lol

moving to correct forum.
 
I you want real perfomance.

Remove the A/C and Power Steering.. :)

That will not only free up weight, but HP

Generally you want maximum power when you're not steering, so the power steering pump isn't taking any power from the motor. You can also turn the AC off with the push of a button and remove the parasitic loss from that as well. Why remove it unless you want to save 25 lbs?
 
rule of thumb 100 lbs = 1/10th in the quarter mile , at least at our performance level. So anything less than 100lbs is not worth doing ..in my opinion traction is what everyone should focus on at trap speeds of 98-101 mph this car should run mid 13's no problem....another 100hp will get you 108 or so trap speeds but with the same setup this car will never really get into 13's on street trim.
 
Generally you want maximum power when you're not steering, so the power steering pump isn't taking any power from the motor. You can also turn the AC off with the push of a button and remove the parasitic loss from that as well. Why remove it unless you want to save 25 lbs?

Yeah, but you forgot about the 150 Lbs of Sprung Mass Smartypants.

Rotating Pulleys take power, regardless, there is still massive friction in the action of pumping fluid around and there will always be significant loss to the rotational mass of the free spinning pulley, bearings, belts and assemblies on the A/C.

They are all basically acting as more little friction prone flywheels.

Any more rebuts?


P.S. There is no such thing as a worthless improvement. Every Ounce, Every 1/4 of a Ft Lb will add up. The N/A members here understand. Spending thousands of dollars for 10 Mods that add up to 4 Hp each. Sounds like a waste, but those little mods all add up to real performance.
 
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when I am idling in neutral and barely tap on the (steering) wheel, i see the ECM kick up the revs instantly - about 300 or 400 rpm. for a second and then drop back down. -the exhast note (gurgle) cuts in and then out.
 
P.S. There is no such thing as a worthless improvement. Every Ounce, Every 1/4 of a Ft Lb will add up. The N/A members here understand. Spending thousands of dollars for 10 Mods that add up to 4 Hp each. Sounds like a waste, but those little mods all add up to real performance.
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Sometimes being n/a really makes you wanna turbo charge.....after all my mods i raced by buddies srt-4 again and was 6 cars behind. I'm slowly gaining but this is gonna take a while. He told me once i eventually catch up to him he's gonna go stage 1 and so on and so forth. Sometimes he can be a b**** : *(
 
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Yeah, but you forgot about the 150 Lbs of Sprung Mass Smartypants.

Rotating Pulleys take power, regardless, there is still massive friction in the action of pumping fluid around and there will always be significant loss to the rotational mass of the free spinning pulley, bearings, belts and assemblies on the A/C.

They are all basically acting as more little friction prone flywheels.

Any more rebuts?


P.S. There is no such thing as a worthless improvement. Every Ounce, Every 1/4 of a Ft Lb will add up. The N/A members here understand. Spending thousands of dollars for 10 Mods that add up to 4 Hp each. Sounds like a waste, but those little mods all add up to real performance.


exactly! everything adds up. take out the spare, jack, tools, seats, power steering, A/C. plus all the weight shaved from replacing the exhaust, test pipe, downpipe, manifold, intake, carbon fiber hood, lightweight battery, wheels. all of that together will drop your quarter mile significantly, even if the aftermarket parts offer no performance gain in terms of horsepower.

it's too bad i don't have money to replace much of that...
 
Yeah, but you forgot about the 150 Lbs of Sprung Mass Smartypants.

Rotating Pulleys take power, regardless, there is still massive friction in the action of pumping fluid around and there will always be significant loss to the rotational mass of the free spinning pulley, bearings, belts and assemblies on the A/C.

They are all basically acting as more little friction prone flywheels.

Any more rebuts?


P.S. There is no such thing as a worthless improvement. Every Ounce, Every 1/4 of a Ft Lb will add up. The N/A members here understand. Spending thousands of dollars for 10 Mods that add up to 4 Hp each. Sounds like a waste, but those little mods all add up to real performance.

I doubt there is 150 lbs of sprung mass in the powersteering and AC systems. I am not sure about the MS3, but on my Subaru the AC had a clutch system where when the AC was deactivated, the engine was only spinning the outer disk of the pully, which was very light, <1/2 a pound.

As for the power steering, I have no idea how much drag there is when the wheel is straight. I notice that at a stop, if I turn the wheel the rpms jump. To me that seems like the load on the steering is proportional to the load taken from the engine.

I still think taking out the AC and power steering is a stupid modification, unless you're making a full track car. Why stop there? Why not rip out your interior, ditch the radio, lose the passenger seat, remove the rear hatch, and replace your windows with saran wrap? On a street car, removing the comforts that make a street car a street car seems counterproductive.

Instead of ditching the AC and removing the power steering pump, you could blow $150 on an ebay intake and get the same, if not more, performance AND you would still be able to parallel park and not die of heat exposure in traffic. Insist on free? Hack your airbox, and gut your downpipe.
 
I still think taking out the AC and power steering is a stupid modification, unless you're making a full track car. Why stop there? Why not rip out your interior, ditch the radio, lose the passenger seat, remove the rear hatch, and replace your windows with saran wrap? On a street car, removing the comforts that make a street car a street car seems counterproductive.

No way, It sounds like you are not the type to understand.

I didn't stop there. My car currently sits at 2345 Lbs. It is a street driven race car.

Do whatever you like, If you are near Ottawa, I'll let you drive it, you will want one.

I wasn't holding a gun to anybodys head forcing them to do this. I have weighed the car and parts that come off. I know the 150 Lbs with the countless 50 Lbs things that have been removed, add up to the weight of almost two people...

So that to me is like taking two stock identical cars and putting them on a race track.

One has two people in it plus you
the the has only you.

When I put it like this, I know which car you would take..

Whatever man. It's just for discussion sake.
 
No way, It sounds like you are not the type to understand.

I didn't stop there. My car currently sits at 2345 Lbs. It is a street driven race car.

Do whatever you like, If you are near Ottawa, I'll let you drive it, you will want one.

I wasn't holding a gun to anybodys head forcing them to do this. I have weighed the car and parts that come off. I know the 150 Lbs with the countless 50 Lbs things that have been removed, add up to the weight of almost two people...

So that to me is like taking two stock identical cars and putting them on a race track.

One has two people in it plus you
the the has only you.

When I put it like this, I know which car you would take..

Whatever man. It's just for discussion sake.

Easy, killer. I'm well aware what weight will do to a car, I could not get around a 190 hp Lotus Elise at Summit point even though I had 320 hp in my STI.

So you want a street driven race car, that's fine, but then why did you work with a MP5? Why not a stripped Miata with a FM turbo kit, which is better in every way for all-out-performance?

I guess I should point out these are honest questions, I don't mean to be confrontational. When I want to drive balls to the wall I take my car to the track or an auto-x. I wouldn't trade my AC for Elise-like chuckability on the street because I drive hard maybe 2-3% of the time.
 
Easy, killer. I'm well aware what weight will do to a car, I could not get around a 190 hp Lotus Elise at Summit point even though I had 320 hp in my STI.

So you want a street driven race car, that's fine, but then why did you work with a MP5? Why not a stripped Miata with a FM turbo kit, which is better in every way for all-out-performance?

I guess I should point out these are honest questions, I don't mean to be confrontational. When I want to drive balls to the wall I take my car to the track or an auto-x. I wouldn't trade my AC for Elise-like chuckability on the street because I drive hard maybe 2-3% of the time.

I'm with you here. Really it comes down to is, to each his own!
 

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