Wastegate questions

[KptClutch]

So I followed everyones advice and compressed the brake pedal for a minute after disconnecting the battery. The process worked and resulted in a spicy orange streak zipping through the neighborhood. But it seems that the map reverted after cutting the car off at the store and restarting the vehicle to make it home.

Booooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

So I'm assuming this is going to be a flash or SSAFC situation now, right? The ATP WGA def added boost, btw. (sorry to hijack the thread)

 

[Sport23]

Most people do not recommend the factory flash, especially if you are going to mod your car. The flash advances the midrange timing to try and smooth out the transition to boost; that is the opposite of what you want if you are going to raise your boost.* You would be better off with a SSAFC for two reasons. 1) It forces open loop at a point you set. This makes your transition to boost more predictable and lets you tune in boost easier. 2) It enables you to pull some of the excess fuel from the factory tune.

If you get a SSAFC please take the time to tune it for your car! Read the U-tune article, start with the super stock map, and tune open loop AND closed loop. To tune closed loop you will need a light foot and a scantool with live data to monitor your long term fuel trims (LTFT). Tune every area so that your LTFT and STFT add up to 0. Reset the factory ECU as stated above. Now tune all of your open loop area with a wideband meter to your desired AFR (11.8 is a good starting point.) Enjoy your new smooth MSP!

*Advanced timing is good for power but most engines (including the FS-DE) are knock limited. Ethanol or methanol can reduce your resistance to knock and could yield more power with the flash. I currently run a flashed ECU, 50/50 E85/91 octane @ 9psi boost and still see some midrange knock on my J&S safeguard!

 

[KptClutch]

Most people do not recommend the factory flash, especially if you are going to mod your car. The flash advances the midrange timing to try and smooth out the transition to boost; that is the opposite of what you want if you are going to raise your boost.* You would be better off with a SSAFC for two reasons. 1) It forces open loop at a point you set. This makes your transition to boost more predictable and lets you tune in boost easier. 2) It enables you to pull some of the excess fuel from the factory tune.

If you get a SSAFC please take the time to tune it for your car! Read the U-tune article, start with the super stock map, and tune open loop AND closed loop. To tune closed loop you will need a light foot and a scantool with live data to monitor your long term fuel trims (LTFT). Tune every area so that your LTFT and STFT add up to 0. Reset the factory ECU as stated above. Now tune all of your open loop area with a wideband meter to your desired AFR (11.8 is a good starting point.) Enjoy your new smooth MSP!

*Advanced timing is good for power but most engines (including the FS-DE) are knock limited. Ethanol or methanol can reduce your resistance to knock and could yield more power with the flash. I currently run a flashed ECU, 50/50 E85/91 octane @ 9psi boost and still see some midrange knock on my J&S safeguard!

Dude....thanks for all the information. You just saved me a ton of time researching this. I'll be quick to admit that my knowledge on this subject is limited, so I've got a lot of reading to do. Do you have any recommended literature on this topic?

 

[Sport23]

For the SSAFC check out this thread. Definately read the U-tune article in the first post. For E85 info you can look @ what some of the DSM guys have done to their 4G63 motors.... if I think of anything else I will let you know.