VICS transition point

Spooled

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Mazdaspeed Protege
Has anyone played with the idea of altering the VICS transition point? I know that Emanage has a setting for the VTEC transition point for Hondas. What about using that wire (if it indeed is a separate wire with the correct voltage)? Just an idea.
 
I currently disconnected the vac. tube that goes to the VICS solenoid from the actual solenoid and ran it straight to the intake mani. This way the VICS stayed closed when the car is in vac, but opens up as soon as the car is in boost. As you know the solenoid is held closed with vac below about 4700 rpm and then opens up as the solenoid cuts the vac off. The car drives pretty good with they way I have it setup. It's a smooth build of power all the way to rev limiter, unlike before where I'd get all this TQ at around 3.5k rpm.
 
I've noticed that also....seems to me you would what it lower.
 
CustomMSP said:
I currently disconnected the vac. tube that goes to the VICS solenoid from the actual solenoid and ran it straight to the intake mani. This way the VICS stayed closed when the car is in vac, but opens up as soon as the car is in boost. As you know the solenoid is held closed with vac below about 4700 rpm and then opens up as the solenoid cuts the vac off. The car drives pretty good with they way I have it setup. It's a smooth build of power all the way to rev limiter, unlike before where I'd get all this TQ at around 3.5k rpm.
Care to write a How-To &/or share some pics of how you did this?...I don't exactly like the way it power surges now.
 
I'm interested in this, too. What did you plug the solenoid nipple off with? I'd like to see someone with easy access to a dyno to share some comparision power curves.
 
Well basically you'll want to bypass the VICS solenoid all together. Just take the vac tube from the actual actuator and connect it to a free/use a T fitting to tap into another active vac/boost source. Leave the solenoid plugged in, but make sure to cover the open nipple with a cap or something similar to prevent vac leaks. Be careful removing the vac tubes off the solenoid, because the nipple snaps easy. The VICS plates are open by default, therefore you can tell if everything is working ok when the car is on if the actuator in the closed position. The actuator will stay closed until the manifold sees close to or 0vac. If you rev the engine you should see the actuator arm moving.

Not responsible for any damage :D
 
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CustomMSP said:
The actuator will stay closed until the engine sees some boost
I don't think this is correct since NA proteges use the same system. The actuator still runs off of vacuum, which is stored in special chambers in the manifold via a check valve. And the solenoid is controlled solely by rpm speed from what I've heard. I could be wrong though (shrug).
 
(owned) by reading comprehension. Now I see what he is talking about.

BUT, I think in this case, the VICS is simply never opening. Because of that little green and white thing on the manifold that connects the triangular chambers to the rest of the intake. It is a check valve that alllows that portion of the manifold to hold a vacuum even when one is no longer present. So I believe the actuator is always seeing vacuum.

Now, if the VICS actuator was hooked up to any other of the vacuum sources, then CustomMSP's setup would work as planned.
 
the check valve is actually for the VTCS actuator. My VICS actuator doesn't have a checkvalve in it's vac line. Either way, the actuator should open when there's 0 or close to 0vac, it really doesn't need boost.
 
I disconnected the vics switch and connected the acuator(sp?)to the boost sensor vacuum line with a "t" fitting.(right corner of engine bay). I noticed when the engine is in vacuum the acuator is in the "in" position, and when revved in neutral it would open up, so i assume it's working correctly. You can look and rev it up by yourself by reaching behind the throttle body and moving the throttle. You don't have to rev the piss out off it to see it operate.I have noticed something though, I've hit spark cut twice in one day after doing this running 8 psi. I turned the ebc off and it's been fine since. I don't think it's temp related since it was around 40* and have ran that amount of boost fine for a while and never hit spark cut. I'm guessing the increased airflow caused this to happen. Should I put it back to the way it was, or do you really need the vics system on a turbo car?
 
Dyno both ways and get back to us, lol. I don't think anybody knows for certain.
 
Gaboost said:
I disconnected the vics switch and connected the acuator(sp?)to the boost sensor vacuum line with a "t" fitting.(right corner of engine bay). I noticed when the engine is in vacuum the acuator is in the "in" position, and when revved in neutral it would open up, so i assume it's working correctly. You can look and rev it up by yourself by reaching behind the throttle body and moving the throttle. You don't have to rev the piss out off it to see it operate.I have noticed something though, I've hit spark cut twice in one day after doing this running 8 psi. I turned the ebc off and it's been fine since. I don't think it's temp related since it was around 40* and have ran that amount of boost fine for a while and never hit spark cut. I'm guessing the increased airflow caused this to happen. Should I put it back to the way it was, or do you really need the vics system on a turbo car?
At what rpm did you hit boost cut?
 
It was around 5k, which was strange, and the engine light came on the second time, i reset the ecu and it's been fine since. The thing is I've never hit spark cut until this was changed.
 
There is no code for fuel cut. I think you should've gotten the code read.
 
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