I am in the process of creating my own twin intercooler set up . I will be running front mount and top mount !!!! What do you think the good and bads are of that . ???? Also Turbo ! what size or spec is the flange on the stock turbo , im looking to get a bigger one but dont know what i can bolt right to it ??? HELP
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Twin Intercooler ?????
- Thread starter LV Tunerz
- Start date
I am in the process of creating my own twin intercooler set up . I will be running front mount and top mount !!!!
It will be interesting to see how much bang for your buck you get. I would think lag would also be a factor, but you could factor that out in your design (which I'm sure you already have at this point).
Also Turbo ! what size or spec is the flange on the stock turbo , im looking to get a bigger one but dont know what i can bolt right to it ??? HELP
Check out some of the vendors, most have upgrade kits for larger turbos that include the bolt-on flanges you'll need. I did a simple search on google for MazdaSpeed6 turbo upgrade and came up with a bunch of vendors.
Be sure to let us know how far you get...
I am in the process of creating my own twin intercooler set up . I will be running front mount and top mount !!!! What do you think the good and bads are of that . ???? Also Turbo ! what size or spec is the flange on the stock turbo , im looking to get a bigger one but dont know what i can bolt right to it ??? HELP
Pointless. A front mount is all you need unless you plan on running an intricate valving design.
Lets look at the pros/cons of each
FMIC: Pros: Good Airflow, no heat soak, looks pimp
Cons: Expensive, more pipe leads to more lag than upgraded TMIC, intercooler blocks some flow to radiator
TMIC: Pros: Cheaper, less pressure drop, decrease in spool time
Cons: starving for airflow at low speeds, heat soak, small design limits HP
If you really want to go the route of "twin intercooler", here is what you need to do .... Use a valve to control the airflow between the two intercoolers hooked up to either an RPM switch, mannual switch, or thermal switch. From a dead stop, put the valve on the FMIC setting as to run the intake charge through the front mount. This will eliminate the heat soak issue. Then, after you start moving, the switch closes, and routes air through the TMIC once that has sufficient airflow for cooling, increasing the efficiency of the turbo for higher RPM usage.
However, even this setup has its disadvantages ... from a stop, you want the turbo to spool fast, however, the FMIC design will increase spool time. At higher RPMs and higher speeds, the engine is working harder to accelerate, heat is more rapidly soaking into the compressor housing, and you will want as much airflow through the intercooler as possible to cool the charge, hence you want a FMIC setup at higher speeds. This completly offsets the benefits of the previous paragraph.
Personally, even with this set up, a FMIC is the best choice for high HP engines. The other way is just toooo involved, too much weight, too much room is needed, and all for minimal gains (if any). I think it woudl actually hurt performance. There are several guys on here running either choice (TMIC or FMIC) on modified engines, and both setups do favorably well.
As far as upgraded turbos: There are several Garrett turbos on protegegarage.com. However, they are notorious for blowing up our engines, unless properly tuned by a professional THAT KNOWS HOW TO TUNE OUR CARS. Our internals are too brittle to support lots of HP. But, good luck.
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well after reading all that i have , i now have alot of know how and where to go with this , i do already have plans on how i was going to do it but i still dont know what to do TMIC or FMIC . Also someone was talking about a upgraded TMIC . I dont understand what that would do . They look as if they are the same as the stock TMIC's ? Basicly what im looking for is a s*** load of air ( DUH ) haha just like everyone else , what would be the best way to do that ??? Would running a Velocity stack work at all ??? Help me out here . In about 4 months maybe 3 months i want to be pushing anywhere from 550 to the wheel or maybe even 650 . I have the cash all i need is the help and knowledge of what i should do and where i should start !!!!!!
also i just read this off protege garage
with the FMIC
Intercooler Specifications:
---------------------------
Approx. Flow Rate for this intercooler: 520 CFM at 1.5PSi pressure drop
Approx. HP Rating for this intercooler: 350 HP
so does this mean you will go from the 15.4 - 15.9 stock and drop to 14.4 - 14.9 psi ????
with the FMIC
Intercooler Specifications:
---------------------------
Approx. Flow Rate for this intercooler: 520 CFM at 1.5PSi pressure drop
Approx. HP Rating for this intercooler: 350 HP
so does this mean you will go from the 15.4 - 15.9 stock and drop to 14.4 - 14.9 psi ????
also i just read this off protege garage
with the FMIC
Intercooler Specifications:
---------------------------
Approx. Flow Rate for this intercooler: 520 CFM at 1.5PSi pressure drop
Approx. HP Rating for this intercooler: 350 HP
so does this mean you will go from the 15.4 - 15.9 stock and drop to 14.4 - 14.9 psi ????
Nope, the factory intercooler has a massive pressure drop. Moving to the FMIC you should see the same or more pressure then stock. With the TMIC we sell we were able to push 320hp through it without trouble. A FMIC is not needed and I doubt there would be a huge power difference between the two.
Approx. Flow Rate for this intercooler: 520 CFM at 1.5PSi pressure drop
Approx. HP Rating for this intercooler: 350 HP
so does this mean you will go from the 15.4 - 15.9 stock and drop to 14.4 - 14.9 psi ????
Pressure drop just means interference in the air plumbing. Basically, the stock intercooler has a 3-4 PSI pressure drop across it ... what does this mean? it means that if the engine is getting 15.9 PSI of pressurized air, and there is a 4 PSI pressure drop, then the turbocharger is putting out 19.9 PSI of air.
And upgraded intercooler has a .5-1.5 PSI pressure drop across it. This means that the engine will still see 15.9 PSI, but at 1.5 PSI loss, the turbo will only have to put out 17.4 PSI. This will reduce spool time, increase efficiency, decrease intake temperatures and prolong the longevity of the turbo.
Also someone was talking about a upgraded TMIC . I dont understand what that would do . They look as if they are the same as the stock TMIC's ? QUOTE]
ETS makes an upgraded intercooler sold on the protegegarage.
This is from the ETS website:
3.25" flows 1176 CFM (705hp based on flow, inlet/oulet restrict flow to ~600hp, surface area = 450hp at ~50mph, speed required for this power rating due to flow through the scoop)
Meaning that this intercooler is capable of up to 450hp, primarily based on the size of the ducting and the inlet/outlet of the intercooler.
Seriously, 500 hp on this car is VERY VERY unlikely. I know you have good intentions, but, here is a quick summary:
Stock block is definetly not capable of 500 hp. There are some people with 300 whp, but they have been tuned by guys who know these cars inside and out, and for the most part, I would not trust a stock block with over 350 hp as a daily driver .. especially if you have a lead foot.
Protege garage has an upgraded forged engine with better rods, pistons, and a lower compression ratio. Only problem is that no one has been able to effectively use this new engine for high horsepower applications because tuners have not been able to figure out the tuning software.
Then there is the drive train: The clutch is crap in this car at any thing over stock torque. The rear differential cracks and breaks under aggressive driving in stock form. The driveshafts are about worthless, and I am pretty sure that the AWD electromagnetic clutch will have a limit shortly.
You say you have the cash .. well, It is my honest opinion that you are looking at well over 20,000 dollars for 500 hp, if that can even happen.
"i want to be pushing anywhere from 550 to the wheel or maybe even 650"
well good luck.. read this thread it will probally help you out. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123686734
well good luck.. read this thread it will probally help you out. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123686734
jcgemt2003
Member
- :
- 06 speed6
I dont even run at 330whp all the time. Truth is at the track Im only running 18psi and that only equates to 315-320whp @18psi. I plan to do a run down the track this spring at 22psi with the meth on and see what happens. The 330whp was at 22psi untuned. I hardly ever get on the throttle during daily driving. To me the idea of this car over 350whp on a daily basis is just asking for it.(gun)
Also someone was talking about a upgraded TMIC . I dont understand what that would do . They look as if they are the same as the stock TMIC's ?
ETS makes an upgraded intercooler sold on the protegegarage.
This is from the ETS website:
3.25" flows 1176 CFM (705hp based on flow, inlet/oulet restrict flow to ~600hp, surface area = 450hp at ~50mph, speed required for this power rating due to flow through the scoop)
Meaning that this intercooler is capable of up to 450hp, primarily based on the size of the ducting and the inlet/outlet of the intercooler.
Seriously, 500 hp on this car is VERY VERY unlikely. I know you have good intentions, but, here is a quick summary:
Stock block is definetly not capable of 500 hp. There are some people with 300 whp, but they have been tuned by guys who know these cars inside and out, and for the most part, I would not trust a stock block with over 350 hp as a daily driver .. especially if you have a lead foot.
Protege garage has an upgraded forged engine with better rods, pistons, and a lower compression ratio. Only problem is that no one has been able to effectively use this new engine for high horsepower applications because tuners have not been able to figure out the tuning software.
Then there is the drive train: The clutch is crap in this car at any thing over stock torque. The rear differential cracks and breaks under aggressive driving in stock form. The driveshafts are about worthless, and I am pretty sure that the AWD electromagnetic clutch will have a limit shortly.
You say you have the cash .. well, It is my honest opinion that you are looking at well over 20,000 dollars for 500 hp, if that can even happen.
Okay, that's it, turn in your MS6 keys. (getout)
mrlilguy157
Member
- :
- 07 mazdaspeed 3
I've got a short block and head for sale, 4000miles on it. Perfect condition. You will need to build your motor for anything over 400whp, no doubt about it.
I can get the rods pistons and new bearings for you and assemble the block, out the door for under $5000, including the head. PM me. You could also get the head port and polished
I can get the rods pistons and new bearings for you and assemble the block, out the door for under $5000, including the head. PM me. You could also get the head port and polished
jcgemt2003
Member
- :
- 06 speed6
Or you could get a brand new fully built shortblock (minus the port and polish)shipped to your house
for $4995.
click here http://siteground207.com/~protegeg/index.php?cPath=281_34_365
for $4995.
click here http://siteground207.com/~protegeg/index.php?cPath=281_34_365
Okay, that's it, turn in your MS6 keys. (getout)
Do you have a problem with what I said?
Do you have a problem with what I said?
im just looking for help , im not trying to start a war in this post , thank you
Do you have a problem with what I said?
You're just negative, and I'm sarchastic. (stfu)
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