turbo mp3

[soundbombing]

For those who have turboed their mp3, I have a question for you. I've already done a search and have read many articles but couldn't find my answer so the help is appreciated.

I put a bigger fmic, cai, and venting bov on my msp. I have a stalling issue. Right now I can't afford the money for the proper fix. I have read about people using the allen(sp?) wrench nut to turn up the idle and this has helped them. Well, I couldn't find out what you put your idle(s) to? The stock I believe is 750 rpm. so is 1000 too much, 850 too little. I guess you would think I should try it and do some r&d right?

Well, I don't have my car right now, it is in the shop so I would like to know ahead of time so I can get it done easily. Thanks for all the help and clarification.

matt

 

[KzA]

try recirculating the HKS blowoff..that just might do the trick

 

[soundbombing]

Thanks for the input. I've also heard that recirculating the bov will help the spool of the turbo. I have no fact to back that up. Anyway, we actually did that first because I heard it would stall venting. But it stalled just the same. Double checked all the piping and there wasn't any leaks. So we I said what the hell and vented it. Plus have you heard a vented hks ssq bov? It is damn ugly, I thought it would be alright but I couldn't stand it. I would of been better off with something like turboxs or something like that.

but what we come to figure out is that injen made a cai intake for the msp and had the same problem with the stock bov. the problem is that it was going back to the intake tubing too close to the maf and causing a distrubance and mis reading. I found this out after all my headaches. I haven't had a chance to try and move the fitting down away from the maf on my setup but with the sound I wouldn't do it now. So i'm looking for another way out.

Thanks anywoo. Later.

 

[changedman]

i wouldnt mess with the idle, it might not be good in the long run

 

[RevsTo9K]

The BOV is your problem. There's no "might do the trick" to it. That IS your problem. Lots of people are getting these BOV's and letting them vent to the atmosphere, and wondering why their car is studdering and stalling. Hello,....your car is injecting the gas for much more air that it's not getting because it is blowing out of the BOV.

 

[soundbombing]

Thanks for the help. But I know it's the bov. The maf is reading a certain amount of air and the ecu if giving the correct fuel. So when the bov vents and the air is unmetered therefore causing the stall on DECELERATION because of a rich mixture. This has been a problem with many vehicles venting. That is why hks has the vein controller or whatever but it is discontinued. Expensive but it works. I could go with a full emu, but $. hks now dropped their retail of the super afr which should work. but again after $299, install (i might do it, depending), but not sure if tuning is need.

I have read some ppl have turned up the idle so I was wondering how far. I know long term effects and such, I have already over heated with the short time I had to play with it before shop entry. But I don't want this for long term you see. I just need a safe/common rpm #. I will get a sds system or safr but money doesn't grow on trees.

thanks to everyone. later.

 

[serpentkilla1]

You need to move the BOV closer to the TB. I have the same BOV and i don't have a stalling prob. You can change the way it sounds by changing the inserts, you can get a higher pitch or lower, but you want to move it closer to the TB. Looks good though.

 

[Melanism]

Don't listen to Serpentkilla! He's an idiot. He has a boosted P5 and I can still kill him with my 93 Hyundai Excel!!! Oh, and he destroys people's power tools and doesnt replace them!!!

Just kidding. He's done a lot of trial and error, his advice should be pretty good.

 

[1sty]

I was the one thaat opened up the stop point on the throttle body.

My problem was the car was stalling when the engine switched to engie breaking and the clutch was in. Basicly it was chocking itself and I think that the turbo was to blame for bogging down the intake track just enough. I also had a recirculating valve so I know that is not my problem. The Stop point adjustment did not raise my idle it simply made the car catch itslef at 1200-1500 rpms instead of crashing and stalling. The itels will still come done to the about 700 rpm after the intitial stop at 1200.

 

[perfworks]

I was the one thaat opened up the stop point on the throttle body.

My problem was the car was stalling when the engine switched to engie breaking and the clutch was in. Basicly it was chocking itself and I think that the turbo was to blame for bogging down the intake track just enough. I also had a recirculating valve so I know that is not my problem. The Stop point adjustment did not raise my idle it simply made the car catch itslef at 1200-1500 rpms instead of crashing and stalling. The itels will still come done to the about 700 rpm after the intitial stop at 1200.

first of all and most important MAF placement is very important. for some odd reason which i wont go into very much detail over is the fact that you need to place the MAF as far away from the compressor inlet as possible. smaller turbos will have the tendency to have more turbulent air then lets say a t4 compessor housing and wheel.
second not every car is the same. just because it is an MP3 or whatever does not mean that it will react the same in avery vehicle.
when you go for example to a stand alone ecu and you tune for base idle, the throttle body plays a big role in the correction of fuel and ignition. now with out going too technical, i will AGREE with what 1rst mp3 did. AGAIN understand that only if every possible air leak may have been exhausted. this is a viable way to fix the problem. some may disagree but ive have done the same on other vehicles. you would be amazed that a car from the factory may not even be to spec.
and again why i emphasize all the time for the proper A/F metering to narrow down the problem.
also the placement of the recirculating tube FROM the valve should be AS CLOSE as possible to the compressor inlet.at that point you will need a minumum of 12 " from that point to where the MAF should be in line.
we have designed a MAF especially for the protege to be a BLOW THRU after the turbo unit that will solve alot of these problems.and allow a BOV to be used in place if needed. but understand that a good competition rec. valve will help spool up in between shifts.
we are testing the unit this week and will post the results in the photo/ video section under "pics of my girlfriends"

 

[1sty]

That is something I definitly leave out to commonly that I spend over a month trying to find other problems. I went as far as replacing every boost line, bought FMs better clamps and hoses, Rechecked for all posible air leaks, cleaned the MAF, Removed, inspected and cleaned the IAC valve, had the ECU replaced and Retightened everyhting for exhuast leaks.

 

[mikesmazda155]

How much will the Blow through MAF run?

 

[perfworks]

im talking with my distributor so we can sell the MAF seperate. he was looking into selling the module and MAF together.
i will get a price and post it on my thread. under photo
http://www.protege5.com/vbb225/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17683

 

[mikesmazda155]

THANKS