Clean and test your injectors
Inspect and if necessary replace your pulsation damper
Replace your vacuum lines with silicon lines
Replace your fuel filter
Buy a haynes manual
Check you bearings and driveline for looseness and play
Replace your shifter bushings and lower cover boot(if torn)
Clean and test your injectors
Inspect and if necessary replace your pulsation damper
Replace your vacuum lines with silicon lines
Replace your fuel filter
Buy a haynes manual
Check you bearings and driveline for looseness and play
Replace your shifter bushings and lower cover boot(if torn)
They dont have an online manual for the rx-7 like the p5? Which bearings are we talking about and what is a pulsation damper. Also should the apex seals be replaced?
They dont have an online manual for the rx-7 like the p5? Which bearings are we talking about and what is a pulsation damper. Also should the apex seals be replaced?
There is a factory service manual available for free download if you search on google for it. Wheel bearings I'm talking about. The pulsation damper eliminates pulses using a diaphram caused by the opening and closing of the injectors. It gets old,cracks and starts car fires since the exhaust and intake are on the same side. You have infact the same exact part on your p5. Look at the fuel rail and it is the thing on the drivers side with the yellowish translucent cap. The apex seals should only be replaced if your buying the car for about 700 dollars, ie a rolling chassis. Afterall you wouldn't buy a car with a cracked piston
There is a factory service manual available for free download if you search on google for it. Wheel bearings I'm talking about. The pulsation damper eliminates pulses using a diaphram caused by the opening and closing of the injectors. It gets old,cracks and starts car fires since the exhaust and intake are on the same side. You have infact the same exact part on your p5. Look at the fuel rail and it is the thing on the drivers side with the yellowish translucent cap. The apex seals should only be replaced if your buying the car for about 700 dollars, ie a rolling chassis. Afterall you wouldn't buy a car with a cracked piston
Just one more thing. If you test drive it and the car feels laggy on the top end your 5th and 6th ports are most likely stuck. It's just another thing the car is known for. So look on the intake mani just above the exhaust mani and look for the tits. Not really, their just the actuators. Give them a push and pull to make sure there is no resistance. So long as the car has a steady idle and doesn't emit black or white sweet smelling smoke on start up you're in good shape for 550.00. Miles?
Just one more thing. If you test drive it and the car feels laggy on the top end your 5th and 6th ports are most likely stuck. It's just another thing the car is known for. So look on the intake mani just above the exhaust mani and look for the tits. Not really, their just the actuators. Give them a push and pull to make sure there is no resistance. So long as the car has a steady idle and doesn't emit black or white sweet smelling smoke on start up you're in good shape for 550.00. Miles?
Do a full 60K tune up, replacing all the fluids (including brake, clutch, tranny, engine oil, coolant, and rear end lube), spark plugs and cables, all filters (including fuel, oil and air), belts, any hoses that are leaking or bulging, and the O2 sensor. In addition if the car is more than 10 years old or has more than 120K miles on it, the Pulsation Dampener (or pimary fuel rail and integrated Pulsation Dampener on 89-91 FCs) should be also replaced.
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