Trailer Wiring Harness

L

Lbear

:
2017 CX5 AWD Touring
I found this trailer wiring harness for a 2016 CX5 with LED lights. I like that it is plug and play and no hacking into the factory wiring but what I dislike is that they run the power/positive wire UNDERNEATH the vehicle to the battery up front.

http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Mazda/CX-5/2016/118563.html?vehicleid=20161174260

That seems like a bad idea. Can the positive power wire be run INSIDE the vehicle?

I also don't like that the wiring has to hang out the back hatch when in use.

Any other recommendations for harnesses?
 
I just finished putting a Curt hitch on my 2016 and I used the Mazda factory harness. I think it is kind of the best of both. I get the less expensive hitch and a better integrated wiring harness. The Mazda harness taps into the battery with a jumper wire into the existing harness and then taps into a connector in the back for power to the converter. If you read the Mazda directions and you can source the connector pins you could do this yourself. I can also report that the Mazda trailer connector fits perfectly into the Curt connector bracket. The only drawback to the OEM harness is that it uses wiretaps that can be problematic. I had to screw around with a couple of them to get them to make a good connection to the wire.
DSCN0305-Edit.jpg
 
The kit I installed just connects to rear wiring harness and is easily removed if needed (no splicing at all). I converted my trailer lights to LEDs so not concerned about additional electrical load on rear light circuit.
 
rwortman said:
Yeah I read that a while back. Not bad but IMO not as clean as the factory harness and the price is about the same. With the factory harness you don't have to run a power wire the length of the car and you can use the correct pass through that isn't buried under the spare.
Click to expand...

Will the CURT 56011 work with the 2016 and LED taillights?
 
Last edited:
According to Curt it will. It is an unpowered converter. All current for the trailer comes from the lighting circuit for the car. It will probably be fine for any small trailer. For the same price, the powered converter from Mazda will put the power to the trailer lights on another circuit so a problem with the trailer won't knock out the lights in the car.
 
rwortman said:
According to Curt it will. It is an unpowered converter. All current for the trailer comes from the lighting circuit for the car. It will probably be fine for any small trailer. For the same price, the powered converter from Mazda will put the power to the trailer lights on another circuit so a problem with the trailer won't knock out the lights in the car.
Click to expand...

The trailer lights are also LED.

So a POWERED converter requires tapping into the positive terminal on the Mazda while an UNPOWERED unit just uses the circuit in the brake lights of the Mazda??

If there is a problem with the lights in the UNPOWERED converter, wouldn't the in-line fuse just blow instead of it blowing out the Mazda's lights?
 
As far as running inside/outside.. first, there are about 4-6 locations in the rear that are designed for inside to outside access (wiring). You can run the wiring under the rear seat into the driver side trim all the way to the firewall. Looking at the kit it seems only the black wire would need to go through the firewall so it shouldn't be much of a squeeze.
 
Lbear said:
The trailer lights are also LED.

So a POWERED converter requires tapping into the positive terminal on the Mazda while an UNPOWERED unit just uses the circuit in the brake lights of the Mazda??

If there is a problem with the lights in the UNPOWERED converter, wouldn't the in-line fuse just blow instead of it blowing out the Mazda's lights?
Click to expand...

What in line fuse? The converters with in line fuses are powered. The fuse is in the power wire. Unpowered converters run right off the light circuit. You would blow the fuse for the car lights and all would be dark. It's not a big issue but for the same price, I went with the Mazda unit. Your money/time, your choice.
 
In 20+ years towing trailers I've never blown a fuse on a tapped connection. I know it can happen...but I carry spare fuses with me just in case. I ran the wattage numbers and circuits still have plenty of capacity even after connecting the trailer. Very easy to remove entire setup if needed.
 
So if I wanted a plug an play setup (no wire splicing or tapping), then I would need to get the Curtis unpowered setup?

What size fuse does the CX5 use for LED lights?
 
There are two ways to get 12 volt power back there. Below is a link to the instructions for the factory harness. It tells you where to find a spare wire and how to connect to it.
http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-24809172479195/cx5trailerhitchharness.pdf

Also you could take power from the power jack back there.

Because I have had a trailer wiring problem take out the car tail lights and because the CX-5 tail / stop lights are controlled from a expensive modal I prefer a powered controller.
 
Kedis82ZE8 said:
This is model I used but it says only for '16's without LED tails....

http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Curt/C56011.html

It appears only powered units are used with LEDs.

http://www.etrailer.com/t1-2016_Mazda_CX-5.htm
Click to expand...

That makes sense. LEDs draw less current. That means that trailer lights either LED or incandescent, would be a much higher percentage of the load then they would be on the non LED CX-5 I suspect that either the tail light control module is designed to detect a extra load as a problem and shut down or give you a warning or that the module / wiring would be damaged by the extra load. Required or not, a powered module is good insurance. It protects your car from your trailer. I would go with the powered and tap power from the rear power outlet.
 
Does anyone know where to buy just the OEM trailer harness? All I've been finding is the hitch with wiring included not the wiring separately.
 
Is there a way to run the POWER wire through the vehicles INTERIOR?

I don't want to run it underneath the car.
 
Last edited:
I think I am going to get the powered version and tap the 12VDC off the cigarette lighter socket in the back. That wire should have plenty of capacity! I will post pics if I do it. I found a power source on my Focus in the back also, no brainier.
 
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