Trailer Hitch for CX-7

I am looking for some input on which trailer hitch I should purchase. I found 3 (5 if you include the different class ratings) hitches for CX-7's at this link and of course the one made of gold from Mazda for $455 (installed). There maybe other out there and please let me know about them.

Considering factors are but not limited to:

1.) Least noticeable when installed (or cleanest looking)

2.) Easiest to install.

3.) Price (but they all look reasonable on that link)

4.) Light wire harness
 
Well I decided to order the HIDDEN HITCH Class II because it comes with the draw bar, clip, pin and hopefully (from the mfg website) the rubber hitch cover. Also ordered the wire harness and ball cover all for $170 shipped. That is better than the $400 plus tax installed Mazda price.

I will follow up after the install with pictures and details.
 
guys im a distributar for drawtite i might be able to get these pm me so i dont have to track down the thread i will forget but i can look in the morning in the catolog and make a call if i have too btw you need a 3n1 ball 10k towing cap. and all 3 sizes in one ball easy i use it about 3 buddies use it now and my old man plus alot of customers
 
cx7rocks said:
So any success so far?

I was planning to buy the exact same hitch :)

I just got the shippment last night, All looks good. The rubber hitch cover that is seen on hiddenhitch site was not included from the etrailer purchase(oh well).

I will post some pictures in a few days once I start to install, a bit busy this week.
 
ms64meplease said:
guys im a distributar for drawtite i might be able to get these pm me so i dont have to track down the thread i will forget but i can look in the morning in the catolog and make a call if i have too btw you need a 3n1 ball 10k towing cap. and all 3 sizes in one ball easy i use it about 3 buddies use it now and my old man plus alot of customers


Yes, the DrawTite Interchangeable Hitch Ball does look pretty cool! I don't see the 10K lbs capacity you speak of nor would we need it on a CX-7 (nor would we need a 2" ball, but would be nice to have in a pinch). Looks like a little investigating on purchase is in the works.
 
i think my cost is 18 bucks i will check and see i can take a pic of it email me at gentalmon@msn.com i can get all kinds of sizes they do haul 10k on the 1" shank its s.s. i belive but either way its a nice deal i tow a boat with 1 7/8 then a util. trailer at 2" then the car hauler @ 2 5/16 i never change the stinger i just leave it locked in there
 
CX-7 Hidden Hitch Installed with Photo's

As you all may know I purchased the class II "HIDDEN HITCH" brand from eTrailer. Installation was a snap with 3 notable items.

Back.webpSide.webpLayOut.webpTight.webp

A few more photo's here

1. You have to drop the rear end of the muffler, it is easy once you get under there and pull on the rubber mounts.
2. Get yourself a dremel tool, I would have hated opening up the 4 bolt locations with a file.
3. Unless you get lucky like I did, get yourself another person to help put it in place when doing the final mounting.

Hidden Hitch did their homework as this fits ever so perfectly and close! I am disappointed I did not get the rubber hitch cover that is shown on the MFG website.

Grade A!

Now on to the light kit.
 
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So...no news on the wiring harness front, except this:

You can't, as of this date, buy the factory harness that connects to to the factory jack, without buying the factory Class II hitch.

The factory Class II hitch costs about $245, uninstalled, but comes with the eight-to-four wire converter harness.

When you buy a CX-7 with a power driver's seat, you get a conection in the right rear wheel well for the factory trailer hitch. Look in your owner's manual for how to replace the tail-light bulbs, check the right side access, and you will find a plug. It has six contacts. I'm thinking (in no order, and not related to the actual pin numbers):

1. Ground
2. Brake light (L & R)
3. Left turn signal
4. Right turn signal
5. Tail light (L & R)
6. Power (for the converter)

So. You can buy a Class III hitch and "WV engineer" your own wiriing harnesss connected to the factory plug and a "universal" converter.

Thoughts?

azcat
 
azcat said:
So...no news on the wiring harness front, except this:

You can't, as of this date, buy the factory harness that connects to to the factory jack, without buying the factory Class II hitch.

The factory Class II hitch costs about $245, uninstalled, but comes with the eight-to-four wire converter harness.

When you buy a CX-7 with a power driver's seat, you get a conection in the right rear wheel well for the factory trailer hitch. Look in your owner's manual for how to replace the tail-light bulbs, check the right side access, and you will find a plug. It has six contacts. I'm thinking (in no order, and not related to the actual pin numbers):

1. Ground
2. Brake light (L & R)
3. Left turn signal
4. Right turn signal
5. Tail light (L & R)
6. Power (for the converter)

So. You can buy a Class III hitch and "WV engineer" your own wiriing harnesss connected to the factory plug and a "universal" converter.

Thoughts?

azcat

Azcat,

To be honest I got caught up with other home owning projects, so have not got to installing this -what appears to be a "universal light kit with CX-7 instructions", I quickly looked at it and it appeared simple (I hope). Interesring note you make about the the power seat and I will check that out, maybe this weekend / maybe not.

I got the trailer home already without the lights! So I don't need to rush the lights now.
 
THOUGHT OUT said:
Azcat,

I got the trailer home already without the lights! So I don't need to rush the lights now.

Thee "universal" kit will require you to dissassemble most of your interior in the back. Manufafucturers now use a standard connector plug for the rear lights, one on each side, and the converters have a tap for each side that has a male and female passthrough; you pull apart your factory plug, put the converter's plug in between, and push them all back together (think of it as a plug sandwich with the converter' connector in the middle). You do this for both sides, and the leads go to the converter. Output of the convert is the standard four-wire trailer plug. I went this route on my "thank God it's gone" Santa Fe, and removing/replacing all that plastic was a nightmare.

Since Mazda so nicely provided that six-pin plug, I think all we need to do is figure out what pin does what (a few minutes with a multimeter should do it), and connect one of those "universal" converters to it and snake the four-pin plug out the back.

If I get a chance this evening, I'll figure out the pins and post them. I'm also thinking of buying the factory Class II hitch for $246; it comes with the converter (which can't be purchased separately yet). Then again, I think I want a Class III hitch, or at least one with a 2" receiver. OTOH, hanging that much weight behind the rear wheels has got to affect handling adversely.

Decisions, decisions...

azcat
 
Okay - just rec'd my 2" chrome ball and ball-mount w/ 5" rise. I assumed it was going to be a no-brainer until the "WARNING" tag put the fear in me. Basically saying you MUST tighten the ball to the mount with 160 lb/ft. torque or risk failure or loosening - causing bodilly injury or death.

I'm (of course) summarizing... but this tag has very specific instructions and I do not own any torque wrenches. Talk about making me second-guess my skills. :)

I though I'd get it, pin-it-in and tighten the ball on there with a wrench and be done with it. Apparently not.

Am I taking it too seriously?

-sf
 
CX7_Scott said:
Okay - just rec'd my 2" chrome ball and ball-mount w/ 5" rise. I assumed it was going to be a no-brainer until the "WARNING" tag put the fear in me. Basically saying you MUST tighten the ball to the mount with 160 lb/ft. torque or risk failure or loosening - causing bodilly injury or death.

I'm (of course) summarizing... but this tag has very specific instructions and I do not own any torque wrenches. Talk about making me second-guess my skills. :)

I though I'd get it, pin-it-in and tighten the ball on there with a wrench and be done with it. Apparently not.

Am I taking it too seriously?

-sf

I hope what you are towing that requires a 2" ball is not that heavy! CX-7 has a 2000 lbs limit.

Now 160 ft-lbs, just put a crow bar or something with a larger adjustable wrench and put some muscle onto it. That is about 160 ft-lbs!

Mike
 
I'll be towing a small-ass U-Haul 5'x8' trailer, but the person on the phone at U-Haul told me that they require a 2" ball at 16"-18" ball-height.

He better be right! :)
 
yeah... nevermind.

Took it to my local mechanic/tow company (friends of ours)... the guy that knows about trailers and towing looked at the tag, chuckled, pulled-out his pneumatic impact-wrench and tightened that sucker in 3-seconds flat.

He grinned and gave it back to me and said; "I don't think you'll ever have a problem with it".

Heheh... nice!
 
CX7_Scott said:
yeah... nevermind.

Took it to my local mechanic/tow company (friends of ours)... the guy that knows about trailers and towing looked at the tag, chuckled, pulled-out his pneumatic impact-wrench and tightened that sucker in 3-seconds flat.

He grinned and gave it back to me and said; "I don't think you'll ever have a problem with it".

Heheh... nice!

Yeah, so...wiring?
 
Not sure what you're asking...

But if you're asking if the supplied harness/plug works, I won't know until I rent the U-Haul and attempt to connect it. Mazda "claims" it's a universal standard, so I have no reason (yet) to doubt it. I won't actually be RENTING the trailer until early January... when I move.
 
CX7_Scott said:
Not sure what you're asking...

But if you're asking if the supplied harness/plug works, I won't know until I rent the U-Haul and attempt to connect it. Mazda "claims" it's a universal standard, so I have no reason (yet) to doubt it. I won't actually be RENTING the trailer until early January... when I move.

Ah, sorry--you've got the factory harness! I'm trying to decide whether I want to get the factory Class II hitch and the included wiring harness, a Class III hitch and engineer my own harness, or sell my trailer. I'm leaning toward the latter and just renting a truck whenever the urge to bring home 25 bags of mulch strikes.
 
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