mazdaspeedwerx
Member
- :
- 03.5 msp
is this part free? like a recall type thing
to all colder climate msp owners..
- Thread starter peajay
- Start date
is this part free? like a recall type thing
this part is not free. but since my car was still under warranty it was for me. I'll find out how much the part costs but i doubt they will tell me. its been 4 days now and the weather has been getting colder. The car runs like a dream. i can't get it to hiccup any more. talk to a mazda dealer and ask to get a price on this part. Remember it has to be ordered through mazda tech not the parts department. what they replaced were the internals on the wastefate. thats all i know.
Yep, yep and yep.
I have the MPI and I can set it to not send +5 volts to the ECU and avoid it but now that it is in the 20's I hit cut like a beotch! Of course now I have a bigger turbo and a ton of mods but if you run more than the factory boost the odds are at some point (if it gets cold enough) you will hit cut.
I have to retune it for the colder weather. I tuned it earlier this month when it was 78 outside.
My MSP has hit cut almost since about 2000 miles on but I did add an MBC and run 10-12PSI for a while. Whenever it went under lower 50's it would hit cut mildly but when the temp dipped way down it would hit cut in 3rd through 5th.
MSP's just cut without an FCD or Piggyback/EMS.
This has been discussed in detail since the car was new 5 years ago. Do a search on it and you should dig up a ton of stuff.
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mazdaspeedwerx
Member
- :
- 03.5 msp
ehh I was hopeing it was free just to have incase I ever went back to stock. sucks mazda will not admit they screwed up on some things for this car and do afew recalls
no, it doesn't. mine started doing this fuel cut thing in august when it was 30 degrees celsius out. I just checked my wga tonight and found out it was bad, and am about to order a new one. i never hit fuel cut once before august. this is currently the third winter i've had this car. the cold air seems to me to have no affect on fuel cut whatsoever.
Alright, I've been having a problem with hitting fuel cut for a little over a month now and after reading through this thread it seems this would be a good place for me to post in hopes for some help. I had never hit fuel cut before until I got my car back from having my jet-hot coated PG intake mani installed along with thermal spacers. I also had my CAI and hardpipes jet-hot coated thinking any little bit of colder air would equal more power. Since I had never hit fuel cut before I didn't even think about any negative effects more cold air might cause. Before I took it to the shop the most it would boost was around 9psi. I had my Vibrant, CustomMSP SMIC, hardpipes, CAI and PG Intake mani (uncoated) on there before taking it in so the 9psi seemed about right to me. When I got my car back the first time I stepped on it she almost hit 20psi!!! This was the first time I experienced fuel cut. It's vicious and really does feel like you are hitting a brick wall. Since then I've been trying to figure out what could be causing this and did lots of reading and all I could come up with at first was a bad wastegate since mine was still the stocker. So I tested the WGA and it was bad so I ordered the ATP replacement and had it put in along with my Split Second AFC version 1. I got in expecting the problem to be fixed, stepped on it and hit 15psi before hitting fuel cut. I have since done alot more reading and have concluded that the cold temperature outside combinded with my boost no longer being stock because of all my mods and the jet-hot coating and thermal spacers cooling the air even more are what is causing my overboost. What do you guys think? Now I'm trying to figure out what to do to get around the fuel cut but have read in a couple threads that the AFC should have cure it, any opinions on that or why it didn't for me? And last I'm thinking of getting a fuel cut defender but am scared to join the zoom zoom boom club, with my mods and a Greddy Profec Spec II EBC do you think I would be relatively safe? At this point I'm not trying to boost more than 10 psi. I know there is no guarantee so maybe a J&S will be in my future. Any help/advice/ideas you can think of are appreciated.
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If you have the AFC you should probably have a Wideband in there as well, try to tune your A/F ratio to something a little leaner if you haven't already done so, aside from that just stay out of boost until the temp. warms up a bit, with your mod list I don't think there is much to do.
I wouldn't get a EBC as your already spiking way high and like you said you don't want to hit more than 10 psi
I forgot to mention that I just had my wideband put in a week or two ago. So my next step should be a tune? I'm waiting on an exhaust mani and I already have the EBC so I thought I should get those in before going to get a tune.
GhostOne, you have a lot of stuff going on there. While the preloaded maps are a good start, they are not necessarily helpful to your particular setup. A custom map (tune) is definately required.
We have debated what fuel cut is since the MSP's first rolled off the boat. My personal opinion is that the computer recognizes the denser air and dumps a truckload of gas into the cylindar in hopes of flooding that stroke (or strokes) and preventing a lean out. When the car bucks, the black smoke out the back of a catless pipe is amazing. It's good to know that the $3.50/gal just gets blown out the rear like that!
DO NOT lean out the A/F's in your custom map.
As far as joining the zoom zoom boom club... we are actually looking for new recruits! lol j/k. Unfortunately, with all of your mods, you need to understand that on a long enough timeline, it will happen to your car. You've put alot of money into this car, how long do you plan on keeping it? Two more years? Five? Ten? Until it blows? Know in your mind that anything above stock runs you the risk of popping the block. People have run higher, myself included.
As far as the wideband in the car, I don't think it's necessary. It's kinda like a radar detector. Unfortunately, by the time your radar detector goes off, the cop's already got you. Only reason you would need it in there is to set the tune in a real world environment. The tuner in your area should be able to do that already. Going with a tuner in your area will be your best bet to prevent kabloooieeee.
Hope that helps!
We have debated what fuel cut is since the MSP's first rolled off the boat. My personal opinion is that the computer recognizes the denser air and dumps a truckload of gas into the cylindar in hopes of flooding that stroke (or strokes) and preventing a lean out. When the car bucks, the black smoke out the back of a catless pipe is amazing. It's good to know that the $3.50/gal just gets blown out the rear like that!
DO NOT lean out the A/F's in your custom map.
As far as joining the zoom zoom boom club... we are actually looking for new recruits! lol j/k. Unfortunately, with all of your mods, you need to understand that on a long enough timeline, it will happen to your car. You've put alot of money into this car, how long do you plan on keeping it? Two more years? Five? Ten? Until it blows? Know in your mind that anything above stock runs you the risk of popping the block. People have run higher, myself included.
As far as the wideband in the car, I don't think it's necessary. It's kinda like a radar detector. Unfortunately, by the time your radar detector goes off, the cop's already got you. Only reason you would need it in there is to set the tune in a real world environment. The tuner in your area should be able to do that already. Going with a tuner in your area will be your best bet to prevent kabloooieeee.
Hope that helps!
That definitely helps and I really appreciate your advice. I plan on keeping my MSP forever. If the motor blows I will go forged on the replacement. I have been told that when I go to get it tuned my target range for the A/F's at WOT should be in the 11's, does this sound right to you? Can you think of anything else I should do to try to prevent the kabloooieeee?
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Always make sure there is oil in there! Alot of people also change out the radiator for better cooling. Oh, and cross your fingers. LOL everytime I kicked up a piece of garbage off the street, I would think, "crap here comes the boom."
When you go forged, replace with new: oil pump, waterpump, oil screen, oil squirters. Hopefully forged will be an option and not a necessity.
Good luck!
When you go forged, replace with new: oil pump, waterpump, oil screen, oil squirters. Hopefully forged will be an option and not a necessity.
Good luck!
Ummmmmm....what?
It's really easy.
Step 1: Find the rod that protrudes from the WGA. It "connects" to a little "flap" on the back of the Turbo (back meaning the part that faces the engine).
Step 2: There is a tiny (8mm?) "C" shaped clip that prevents the rod part of the WGA from coming loose off the "flap". Remove it with a pair of needle nose plyers. The actual clip looks like this: -C Use the needle nose plyers to pull on the part that sticks out of the "-C"
Step 3: With the "-C" clip removed, pull on the WGA rod away from the WGA. This will allow the rod to clear the "flap". Pull the rod towards the engine and it should just pop off the stud that is connected to the "flap".
Step 4: Release the rod part of the WGA. It will spring back towards the WGA.
Step 5: There are two bolts connecting the WGA to the intake side of the Turbo. Remove them.
Step 6: Disconnect the vacuum line from the WGA.
Step 7: Pull WGA out of engine bay.
Step 8: Throw WGA away as fast as possible and get a new one
To install new WGA, do these steps in reverse order.
Step 1: Find the rod that protrudes from the WGA. It "connects" to a little "flap" on the back of the Turbo (back meaning the part that faces the engine).
Step 2: There is a tiny (8mm?) "C" shaped clip that prevents the rod part of the WGA from coming loose off the "flap". Remove it with a pair of needle nose plyers. The actual clip looks like this: -C Use the needle nose plyers to pull on the part that sticks out of the "-C"
Step 3: With the "-C" clip removed, pull on the WGA rod away from the WGA. This will allow the rod to clear the "flap". Pull the rod towards the engine and it should just pop off the stud that is connected to the "flap".
Step 4: Release the rod part of the WGA. It will spring back towards the WGA.
Step 5: There are two bolts connecting the WGA to the intake side of the Turbo. Remove them.
Step 6: Disconnect the vacuum line from the WGA.
Step 7: Pull WGA out of engine bay.
Step 8: Throw WGA away as fast as possible and get a new one
To install new WGA, do these steps in reverse order.
