TMIC question / install

coyfish

Member
I installed my CAI a week ago and im thinking about getting a TMIC. Ive read nothing but posotive feedback about this mod. Is this a smart move in terms of my next mod? Also im trying to find instructions on TMIC installation but i dont see any. Is it hard / how long will it take? Also if you have any mod suggestions please keep in mind im only doing easy bolt on mods because I remove them / replace stock when necessary for my warranties sake. Thanks for the help.
 
i have a speed 3 and its easy so i can tell you about that. you take of the two 10mm bolts that hold the plastic cover off. then you would unbolt the three 14mm(iirc) bolts that mount the actually intercooler, loosen 2 worm clamps that connect the intercooler, one by the bpv and one at the back. loosen the recirc hose and remove and take the vac line off the intercooler and remove the intercooler. once its off you would have to remove the pipe the bpv connects to and place it on the new intercooler and then just reverse. i would say 1.5 hrs if you were goin turtle speed and being careful but not hard at all. sorry i couldnt be of more help.
 
i havent uprgraded yet i am still on the stocker like you. from what i have read there is a bottleneck built into the stocker so most people do say they feel a increase in power but not everyone. ets (extreme turbo systems) says they dyno'd at like 20 + hp and torque. the only complaint i have read is that the aftermarket top mount can still heat sink at a dead stop but once moving cools very very fast. the up and down of the front mount is that there is piping that could introduce some lag(i havent read of it) and it is more involved and is harder to deal with. if you are worried about warranty issues that may arise you can go to a upgraded tmic if you wanna race the car and need the most out of it then fmic might be good. i am back on the fence looking at cost and what is involved...

the way i see it is that pro's of the new tmic are, stealth appearance, remove restricion, better cooling then stocker(bigger core), less chance of rock damage to fins, oem look, and easy to change out, less piping involved.

cons would be chance of heat soak, smaller core, some issues with bigger cores shroud hitting firewall, and well heat soak. like if you park somewhere and turn it off the heat will just rise and rise.

wow well that is my view i have no actual experience with any aftermarket on this car but that is what i have found in research. hope that helps bro.
 
Thanks for you info skeet. Looks like im sitting on the fence too. Ill keep researching both but looks like ill get a test pipe / bov. Easy to install / remove and cheap. Should help out a little. I guess when my warranty runs out at 36K ill start looking at more permanant mods. FMIC seems like a PITA to install /:
 
on the bov keep it recirculated and be careful with the intercooler cover bolts and the bov bolts. steel screws into aluminum threads equals me stripping 3 of the 4. fixed two but i fubar'd one bad. again no problem and keep this updated with what you find i will do the same. but take care and take it easy.
 
I bought a tmic and liked the performance gain. I needed some cash for another project and sold it. I missed it so much I bought another.

It's a worthy mod.
 
which size did you run swampass? just curious and when you bought the next one did you get it new or used? who is the best person to get it from i saw the on ets site i can get the whole thing a shiny silver powdercoat... i think that would look good:)
 
BOV's sound awesome but I was always hesitant because it seems like people have lots of problems with stalling / idleing/ other stuff I cant remember. My question I guess is do BOV's cause more problems than they are worth? I know most people just get them for the sound. Until my warranty is up my mods will include CAI / test pipe / TMIC/ rear motor mount / shifter bushings. Is a BOV still a good option right now ?
 
BOV's sound awesome but I was always hesitant because it seems like people have lots of problems with stalling / idleing/ other stuff I cant remember. My question I guess is do BOV's cause more problems than they are worth? I know most people just get them for the sound. Until my warranty is up my mods will include CAI / test pipe / TMIC/ rear motor mount / shifter bushings. Is a BOV still a good option right now ?

If you get a bpv (by-pass valve) or a 50/50 (turbo xs, turbosmart) you should have no issues. I have the turbo xs 50/50 and sounds great with no issues. I am currently running a greddy type-s bov (vta) and I can't help but get pops and backfires. I say no, don't go with a bov.... but yes, get a new bpv or a 50/50 if you like the sound.
 
I know I can find this answer on these forums but ive been looking for a while. Difference between BOV / BPV ?? I know most BOV's have VTA and recirc modes and some are hybrids. What exactly is a bypass valve ?
 
Here is a book!!!!!!!


from the factory we have a bypass valve (bpv). under boost when you shift gears the air needs somewhere to go, but it stays in a closed system.

most people incorrectly call all types of valves blow-off valves (bov) which are permanantly set in a vta (vent to atmosphere) mode. This means you shift gears and all that pressure you have build goes into the air. this can cause issues on our cars because we will run very rich between shifts because all that air was vented. -- you could also get into bovs which are open or closed during idle which can cause idle issues..... but I'm not going to spearhead that on the boards!! ;) email me if you want more info

most people (myself included) have found the most luck with the turbo xs 50/50 hybrid valve. for $200 it is the best of both worlds. firstly, it is closed at idle and acts as a bypass valve. If you boost more than is needed to keep the ecu happy, the valve opens further exposing one or both of two holes which vent to atmosphere. tah-dah! Your car is happy yet you get the blow off sound you want. turbosmart also makes a unit that can be adjusted to 100% vta, 100% recirculation, or anywhere in between, but it's also $400. Soundwise the turbo xs gives kind of a whipcrack - whoosh sound because it has smaller holes, while the turbosmart has a slightly deeper sound to it. clips can be found on youtube (make sure turbosmart is going 50/50 and not full vta, they sound different).

I was not happy with the volume of my turbo xs 50/50 AND found a great deal on a bov (100% vta). I am happier with the volume (and distinct sound this one makes -> greddy s). I did idle rougher and backfire a lot until I tuned it just right (there is a spring to tighten/loosen). I will probably change back because it is still not as smooth as before (and I am worried that popping and backfiring will take its toll on my motor) but I love the sound I have now with my bov
 
I recently had a hks bov set to recirc. I hated it. rpms jumped way too far down during shifting making it difficult. Also had some back fires and hesitation. Tail pipe were always black. Now Im running a Forge bpv and love it. No complaints. Works as well as the stocker with a nice sound.
 
See, I just can't stand the forge bpv sound. If only I made a ssq or type s whistle/ping instead of the mario block sound. Then I would buy for sure.
 
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