Timing Curve

Shawn, where are your timing maps at now... or did you ditch on the haltech or whatever you were running?
 
Chojin said:
Guys -

Remember to take into account that the probe motor in that thread is the 2.5L V6, not the FS. The timing values are going to be different for the KL vs. FS.

-Shawn

I have to check that because he told me its the FSDE, in that thread hes just comparing the power output vs a boosted KL03.
 
TurfBurn said:
Shawn, where are your timing maps at now... or did you ditch on the haltech or whatever you were running?

I'm still running the Haltech.

The values at 60 kPa (8.7 PSI) are as follows:

RPM - Map3 Map2
0500 - 12 --- 12
1000 - 12 --- 12
1500 - 13 --- 13
2000 - 15 --- 15
2500 - 16 --- 16
3000 - 16 --- 16
3500 - 16 --- 16
4000 - 16 --- 16
4500 - 16 --- 16
5000 - 17 --- 16
5500 - 18 --- 16
6000 - 20 --- 16
6500 - 22 --- 16
7000 - 22 --- 16

The trigger angle is set to 48 degrees. I was running Map2 until today. I just created Map3 this morning and have yet to drive on it. Map2 felt decently strong, but I knew that it could use more timing up top. Map3 will be loaded after work and I'll evaluate it on the way home and tonight.

I'll keep everyone updated after I tune on the Dyna Pak.

-Shawn
 
I know you guys keep saying trigger angle, and I know what it is... but the problem is it doesn't mean anything :) LOL... so the question is... are you lined up? At 10 degree timing lock, are you on the mark or are you way off? If you aren't on the mark the values don't mean anything for anybody not running the same Haltech setup as you... :D
 
With the trigger angle set to 48 degrees and the timing locked to 10 degrees, the timing mark on the crank pulley lines up with the 10 degree mark on the timing cover.

-Shawn
 
i'm going to work on my timing tonight.. I plan to pull some timing out down low and see if that picks my torque back up.. (I wonder if I'm too advanced down low) and then add more up top and see how she pulls.. I'll create a new map so I can do back to back comparisons to see what works best..
 
I have my timing set very well also, I can eat and not bite my tongue while eating, doesnt matter the amount of intake. (evil)
 
i'm going to work on my timing tonight.. I plan to pull some timing out down low and see if that picks my torque back up..

removing timing down low would lose you torque...

chas
 
acidbbg said:
removing timing down low would lose you torque...

chas

Not always true... over-advancing your timing down low will lead to as much torque loss as not having enough advance...
 
Chojin's #s looks the best of all the #s posted. Could be a little more aggressive, but it all depends on your setup, location, and gas octane.
 
I'm going to take his number, cross them with the 1.6L Miata numbers.. and add some spice for good measure and run that tonight... we'll see how it goes ;)
 
I pushed timing out further yet.... I'm running probably about 26 degrees under 10 psi... no knock... JandS gets activity in some other areas... but anyway... I fiddled around and got it to pull better overall.. i'm going to do some other checks in the near future (tomorrow night hopefully) and i'll post some more info of my maps then as well.

Later

Steve
 
Chojin said:
With the trigger angle set to 48 degrees and the timing locked to 10 degrees, the timing mark on the crank pulley lines up with the 10 degree mark on the timing cover.

-Shawn

Been working on this timing stuff a bunch more... made a couple of "mistakes" on my side because I wasn't as careful or methodical as I should have been. I'm doing some more work tonight hopefully and I"ll post results.

Shawn, are you using an el-cheapo timing light? Or are you using a wasted spark adjusted light? I hadn't thought about it before and had been just using my cheap light to set timing... well I ran some experiements Wednesday and discovered that the light gives a fake reading. If you don't have a wasted spark light it will automatically show half of what is actual. So if you are at the 10 mark on the dust cover with your timing light you are likely running at 20 degrees timing. One way you can test this is go in and start retarding your timing. If you are at the 10 mark on the dust cover when you strobe it, pull out 10 degrees of timing from the Haltech. You'll see it only move halfway back to the 0. That tells you that your light is reading double. Based on that, I figured out I ran timing as high as about 40 degrees maybe a hair over. The JandS never had a problem with it, so that's good news. I am upping the sensitivity on the JandS and refining my audio amplifier setup that lets me listen to the engine.

I can tell you that the car was wicked wicked fast and powerful when running near 40 degrees of timing... So I'm going to creep back up to that from where I am right now and see how the JandS and everything responds. Never saw any signs of detonation... and i'm going to switch plugs so I have a clean set to watch as well.

I stil have had no luck though figuring out what the stock protege curve is... best info I have right now is that you can run from 10-18 degrees of advance at idle. I'm running about 15 and it runs nicely.

Later!

Steve
 
Mostly high R's off boost, but I believe I ran as high as 36 degrees under 10 psi of load.... and again.. no detonation on the JandS or anything that showed in AFR's or EGT's... I think the big issue is we have NO idea what the MP3's and the like run for timing.
 
I don't have any logs though... so it's hard for me to be 100% sure what it did run... i can tell you what the rough numbers are adding up to (and is what I posted above) but I can't tell you much past that... I can tell you right now this morning on the drive in with the timing "pulled back" some I was running 30 degrees at 10 psi.
 
TurfBurn said:
Mostly high R's off boost, but I believe I ran as high as 36 degrees under 10 psi of load.... and again.. no detonation on the JandS or anything that showed in AFR's or EGT's... I think the big issue is we have NO idea what the MP3's and the like run for timing.

36 @ 10psi? WOW.
 
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