let me give it a shot here off the top of my head.
First...if you are still on stock motormounts you'll need to put a jack under the motor since you will need to remove the passenger side mount. If you have poly front and rear mounts then it should hold itself up OK.
Things to remove....both serpentine belts (before removing the alternator belt loosen the water pump pulley), passenger motormount (17mm deep socket + 14mm socket), waterpump pulley (10mm socket), valve cover (10mm socket), sparkplugs.
Now....set the motor at TDC using the mark on the crank pulley and then remove the pulley and the plastic timing belt covers. Use a 5.5mm (IIRC) allen wrench to take the tension off the timing belt tensioner. I usually put the allen wrench in so that when I loosen the tension I can tuck the wrench under the alternator pulley so it stays there without me holding it.
now you can take off the old timing belt. At this point it is inevitable that the exhaust cam will move due to the valve spring preload. Your going to need a big wrench or adjustable to put on the large nut (26mm???) machined into the cam. I usually recruit help at this point and put a wrench on each cam so that someone can hold them in the right place. You'll notice there are marking on the cam gears and you'll need to line up those little hash marks DIRECTLY across from each other with the I and E on the top of the gears respectively. Just look at it while the belt is still on and at TDC so you know how they are supposed to be.
This is the hard part.
While putting the new belt on it is easier for me to put it just barely on the crank gear enough to stay and then try and slip it over the edge of the cam gears (while your friend holds the cams in the right spot). Then I go back and push it on the crank gear a little farther. Then farther on the cam gears. If you try to put it all the way on the crank gear you'll never have enough slack to get it around the cam gears. So take it a little at a time. Once the belt is all the way back on take the allen wrench off the tensioner so it can return to it's static position. It would be wise to turn the motor over one revolution at this point to see if the hash marks on the cam gears line up perfectly. You can tell if the crank is at TDC by the keyway on it. It will also be at the top of the crank's rotation and lining up with the small notch in the block. It's tough to see but it's there. If everything lines up perfectly then just put it all back together and you're done. If not then you'll need to take the belt off the cam gears again and try lining them up with the crank at TDC again.
