The next mod, which is better

[jasonspeed3]

Well, so far I have a cobb SRI, and a cobb stage II suspension. I have orderd the PG turbo inlet and have a HKS BOV with recirculation kit gettin ready to go on. Was debating between the test pipe and race pipe, or something similar in price. What is the hp gain comparison of the race pipe over the test pipe. I would like to keep m first cat if the difference isn't extreme. I know with the race pipe I will have to get some sort of tune since it will throw a CEL for the cat. What are our recommendations and hp gain guesses. I know I probably wont see too much for the PG inlet and the HKS BOV will I?

 

[Moody]

test pipe=race pipe=mid pipe. they're all the same thing just different words. from what i hear, its worth it to get the race/test/mid pipe. I have one waiting to install. As far as the BPV and inlet pipe, your turbo will spool quicker and you will hold more boost as our stock BPV likes to leak alot. So you should see slight improvement

 

[funksilver07]

racepipe and testpipe are the same thing, so same gains...if your not sure what mods your putting on your car might be a good idea to do a bit more research. No flame intended just a basic do some homework before you start throwing mods on your car. Learning is a good thing...

 

[coyfish]

Test pipe / race pipe / mid pipe = same thing. Replaces the 2nd cat and it wont throw a cel. People estimate this nets approx 10 whp. Its a great mod. Better exhaust tone and you can feel a bit stronger mid range. Easy install.

Unless you stock BPV is leaking you wont feel a diff with the HKS. I dont have an inlet pipe but ive heard good things. With those mods you should net 10-15 whp.

 

[zoomdoom]

there is no difference test pipe and race pipe are same thing. you remove the second cat bolt in the straight pipe no check engine lights/no tune needed.

 

[RC08MS3]

as stated, Racepipe = Testpipe, but it shouldnt throw a CEL, thats if you go catless downpipe. Inlet will increase sound and give quicker spool, with minimal HP gain. HKS you will prob not see any gain, possibly a little up top, you really need a boost gauge to see if your stock BPV is even leaking, alot of the time it isnt people just change them for the peace of mind

 

[jasonspeed3]

Ok, I was talking about the full pipe that replaces both cats, I guess that's a full down pipe right? Still getting on to the terms, but I am by no means a newbie to modding. I did the header install on my M3, and corvette, I just get some of these terms mixed because this is my first turbo car.

So, how much better, if any is the full pipe that replaces both cats over just the test pipe? And If these are the current mods I have on order, what would be the next good thing to get?

 

[RC08MS3]

full DP will be a decent gain, prob one of the better ones to do for the car. Going catless will cause a CEL, but a spark plug defouler or extended bung will fix that. going catless may also cause boost creep, or when you create more boost than tuned/desiring, so a tune and possibly a boost controller may be in the mod list. i think you'd have to decide what tuning solution to go with, and exactly how far you want to go in mods on the car. fuel pump is something you will def have to watch on your car, so get something to monitor fuel pressure, without it your asking for BIG trouble.

 

[mazdaspeed32007]

ive learned the fp is a small/unlikely problem blown out of proportion. just watch your fuel pressure. the only thing you have to worry about is like...800psi. 1300 not a big deal...upgrade internals of fp or full fp if you feel its necessary then. i did mine but im almost fully bolted trying to run the stage 2. im just missing a new turbo and exhaust mani. and i just decided to change out the fp internals. even then its not necessary for me...it just gives me piece of mind.

 

[mazdaspeed32007]

ps...bravnik would be proud of me. just had to throw that in there

 

[RC08MS3]

not enough fuel pressure is what makes these motors pop, taking it lightly when your modding is foolish. if you dont have issue's with the stock FP, then no dont worry about it, but monitoring, Hell yes. I know of someone personally who took FP lightly, and he's been waiting for a forged block for almost 4 months so he cant put the car back together. luckily for him he's ballin, but for a car thats suppose to be a DD, its a hefty bill for the average person.

listen to my advice or not, w.e but better safe than sorry

 

[mazdaspeed32007]

monitor it for sure....just dont think fp fp fp. i agree with you though.

 

[RC08MS3]

no by all means, dont spend the 700 CP-E wants if you dont need to, just keep in ur mind thats all

 

[coyfish]

Ok, I was talking about the full pipe that replaces both cats, I guess that's a full down pipe right? Still getting on to the terms, but I am by no means a newbie to modding. I did the header install on my M3, and corvette, I just get some of these terms mixed because this is my first turbo car.

So, how much better, if any is the full pipe that replaces both cats over just the test pipe? And If these are the current mods I have on order, what would be the next good thing to get?

Mazdaspeed 3 / 6 have 3 exhaust pieces.

Downpipe = most gains (20ishwhp) replaces 1st cat but is hard to install
Test pipe = short pipe that replaces the 2nd cat. Cheap and easy install. 10 whp
Catback = the back end of the exhaust with muffler set. Basically for sound and offers very minimal HP gain.

If your a newb I would start with the midpipe. Its cheap, easy, and hasssle free. Will give you a small but noticable gain in power. If power is what your after than look up CAI, turbo inlet pipe, bypass valve, intercoolers . . . just stuff to look at. There is a sticky by tunersteve with a list of good beginner mods.