The massive Boost Thread

TurfBurn

Member
:
'01 Yellow MP3 #1026
Well guys, here is the deal. There are a number of people now getting into the 20+ psi range and we are all starting to run into this and that of the problems. I've had the great opportunity of getting to talk to race teams, other shops, as well as other members on here who are boosting up high. What I want to do is use this thread for an any and all "concerns" of dealing with the high boost. So first of all, a list of things that I see as hurdles as I work to have my motor done for March with a consistent 21-24 psi of RACING as well as occasional street use.

Tensioner belt - Rumor is that the acceleration of the high powered motors can cause the belt to jump.
Solutions: Dowel pin the tensioner or use a heavier spring for the tensioner
Sources for solution: None at this point past your machine shop

Rings - Rings obviously need to be upgraded. I received an informed opinion that the 21+ boost may be a little much even for the Total Seal TS1 race rings from a heat standpoint.
Solutions: Total Seal recommends their Max Seal (gapless top ring). These will handle the heats, but will eat your bores up. I'm working on an estimated 30K lifespan or slightly better with these rings.
Sources for solution: Total Seal, Summit Racing, Mental Addiction Motorsports

Piston Domes - obviously we are all forged if we are up in the range, but there is the risk of melting parts of the piston domes due to the excessive heat that can occur from mild detonation if a tune or gas goes bad.
Solutions: Ceramic or other coating to improve heat resistance and or dissipation of the top of the dome.
Sources for solution: None at this point, but several coaters are out there. Please update me with some sources for this.

Bearings - Apparently the racing teams have had trouble with wearing the bearings. Our pumps don't produce high enough oil pressure and running a traditional 20-30 thousandths clearance on the mains is too loose and rapid wear is occuring.
Solutions: Run Toga HP Main bearings, and run tighter bearing tolerances per rod manufacturer.
Sources for solution: www.importperformanceparts.net

Transmission - apparently at as little as 15 psi some teams have been destroying gears.
Solutions:Hardened gears, upgrade tranny
Sources for solution: MazdaMotorsports WCC hardened gears (1,000 dollars per gear)

Valves - The higher heats and exhaust volumes can do some definitive frying of the valves.
Solutions: Upgrade or coat valves to protect against heat
Sources for solution: None

Head Gaskets - Obviously boost can be hard on gaskets, there are schools of though toward both aftermarket MLS gaskets as well as the solid copper variety
Solutions: Due to the sealing issues many have with the copper a more advanced MLS may be the better route for this fix. Cometic should be offering a head gasket option.
Sources for Solution: Cometic, Mental Additiction Motorsports, MP3Racer (Tom)

Weak head - Rumor of a weak head that warps under massive boost which is then a contributing factor toward gasket failures. I'm researching tempering methods to strengthen things, but haven't been able to positively ID the head's alloy.
Solutions: No identification of the head alloy has been possible, thus no strengthening method can be identified yet.

Crank Walk: At high boost the crank can "walk" - move laterally in the block - and this can cause damage and wear to all components.
Solutions: Fill in/gusset the mains as necessary (focus on the thrust bearing main). Also, may be possible to cut crank and mains to add an additional thrust bearing.

That's my list at this point.. but please add and discuss so that we can make sure that even at forged levels we aren't popping motors constantly and costing all of us far too much money.

Thanks!

Steve
 
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The crank is also known to walk in the block at high HP Levels as well.
The problem is the way the crank support is designed.We tig welded a gusset(high nickel rod) in the main support to help with this.The best thing would be to design a girdle.
 
How about some upgraded coils? I believe Dean's car is having an issue with the spark getting blown out at 24psi. We definatly need some stronger packs, Nick is working on something to help, but more support with the coils would be great.
 
Bigg Tim said:
How about some upgraded coils? I believe Dean's car is having an issue with the spark getting blown out at 24psi. We definatly need some stronger packs, Nick is working on something to help, but more support with the coils would be great.
With the AEM we are producing you will be able to run 4 coils.Duane's car will be running an AEM 4 channel CDI box(similar to MSD) and 4 MSD coils.
 
The microtech systems we are trying to bring in as well can do external Bosch coil packs. As that will be an additional option available.
 
MAMotorsports said:
With the AEM we are producing you will be able to run 4 coils.Duane's car will be running an AEM 4 channel CDI box(similar to MSD) and 4 MSD coils.
That's cool, 4 coils will definatly do the trick! When also need to have something available for us MPI'ers. I wish we could get the MSD ones to work for us. I believe Nick is using some type of perfect power ignition amplifier with some other type of coils. Hopefully that will work out.
 
TurfBurn said:
The microtech systems we are trying to bring in as well can do external Bosch coil packs. As that will be an additional option available.
Would you know if we could get these to work with the stock ECU?
 
one way or another yes. Just a matter of figuring out the electronics. I'd have to make a special pack, but I could likely do it.
 
MAMotorsports said:
The crank is also known to walk in the block at high HP Levels as well.
The problem is the way the crank support is designed.We tig welded a gusset(high nickel rod) in the main support to help with this.The best thing would be to design a girdle.
Grr... I'm starting to get a bit beaten down by how much we really have to fight through on these motors...

I noticed when I tore down the motor that there isn't the big hefty side plated bearing in our motors for a thrust bearing anywhere. Was a little surprised to see how little there actually was on our cranks for thrust bearing. I'm curious though how putting in a gusset helped. Did you gusset between main bearing caps you are saying?

The other thing that really confuses me is that there are a number of people up over 21 psi, and that crazy car from PR that ran 30 psi and I haven't heard of blown motors or major issues from them either. Is it when we start pushing past the 300 mark that these items start coming up?
 
MAMotorsports said:
elaborate.
What I mean is that I was under the understanding that the Main Bearing Support Plate helped to keep the crank seated. For those who don't know, the MBSP is the upper oil pan that your oil pan attaches to.
 
Do we have any idea as to the threshhold where things start to become "difficult." I'm assuming it has got to be somewhere around 18 psi or so. Stock vehicles have run to around 16 psi and other than internals issues they seemed to do just fine.

I'm basically targeting a two year life span at a 300-350 horse range. Should work out to approximately 12,000 miles and about 30 autocrosses and Solo I events.

It does sound like our stock bearings are our at least reasonably decent bearings. We could benefit from higher quality ones, but I also heard from Tom (MP3Racer) that there may be some hope in just having the bearings coated as well (if I understood him correctly).

Later guys,

Steve
 
why bother coating when Toga main and rod bearings are fairly cheap? I believe in the $65 each set.
 
RyanJayG said:
why bother coating when Toga main and rod bearings are fairly cheap? I believe in the $65 each set.
Because they apparently aren't really any better than stock. At least not for wear.
 
we believe the excessive wear is caused by crank walk though, heavily on one side of the bearing

*edit* point being, no amount of coating is going to help until this problem is addressed. I think some gussets welded in with some high nickel rod or wire can help to control the walk.
 
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Where are you gusseting? Between the mains? on the upper oil pan? where?

Wouldn't it also be possible to solve this by creating a more robust thrust bearing somewhere on the crank by machining the lobes and a journal to accept a U shaped thrust bearing?
 
I just thought I would let you guys that I have the Toga bearings AND I had them coated with special dry film lubricant. Too bad I haven't rebuilt my engine yet...they are just sitting pretty.
 

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