the ko4.....

boost spikes aren't good...ur just asking to have a hole in ur block...then you will have a hole in your pocket.....those boost spikes are gonna bent a rod...then your piston will seize in the cylinder then the rod will break in half putting a couple holes in your block along with oil all over the pavement....take it for what's its worth

But I have had them in every turbo car I have ever owned..

My bug ran about 8 psi stock it would spike to over 15 and it never had a problem. It would spike quickly to 15 then settle back to about 8-10..

How can you control boost spike? With the Standback or Cobb unit?
Im confused now. I thought Boost creep was bad when it slowly crept up to a higher boost level than your cars tuned for. Always thought when you first get on it boost spikes were normal as long as it only lasted for like a second
 
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boost spikes are never good, ap and sb will be able to tune it out. creep is a whole other problem. problem we have is the turbo is so small compared to the displacement of the motor, it can easily spike 22psi at very low rpm
 
But I have had them in every turbo car I have ever owned..

My bug ran about 8 psi stock it would spike to over 15 and it never had a problem. It would spike quickly to 15 then settle back to about 8-10..

How can you control boost spike? With the Standback or Cobb unit?
Im confused now. I thought Boost creep was bad when it slowly crept up to a higher boost level than your cars tuned for. Always thought when you first get on it boost spikes were normal as long as it only lasted for like a second

any other car with a boost controller doesn't matter to the MS3/MS6....
MS3/MS6 is Direct Injection not the typical Port Injection into the intake manifold.....i shouldn't need to explain boost spikes are not good long term for your motor
 
any other car with a boost controller doesn't matter to the MS3/MS6....
MS3/MS6 is Direct Injection not the typical Port Injection into the intake manifold.....i shouldn't need to explain boost spikes are not good long term for your motor

So a Tune is the only way to remedy it? It really only happens when i give it gas and its around 2500-3500 rpm and in a higher gear.
 
So a Tune is the only way to remedy it? It really only happens when i give it gas and its around 2500-3500 rpm and in a higher gear.

yes i know what you mean as far as when the boost spikes happen...only way to get rid of it is to go back to stock...or get a tuning device </thread>
 
congrats that you hold 18 psi all the time. once i get a tune for however many psi i wanna run with a mbc it will hold in every gear buddy. :)
 
OP plz read a bit about this motor and how it interprets boost needs. MBC isn't what you wanna go with. But, since you sound like quite a chump, do what you fancy.
 
Do tell how you intend to access the ecu to tune without the ap or sb?

Please show me a datalog of your awesome rock steady boost curve with ur mbc when ur done.

Also please make a thread when you complain that this motor is a POS after a cylinder takes a "mild jog" out of your block.

I eagerly look forward to you proving the entire MZR DISI community wrong.
 
yes but boost based tuning is more reliable

Ok guys listen up here. Without getting into the AP vs SB debate, the AP CAN be set up to tune by boost. I already do it in my map(s). The simple explanation is to set Load targets above what the engine/turbo is capable of and then you can use the Boost targets table to tune the exact boost you want to see. There's more detail than this, but it works good, lasts long...

You guys need to get real familiar with how the ECU works and then you will understand just how many options you really have for tuning. The ONLY way to learn this ECU is through the Cobb AP/ATR as CPE will NOT assist you in knowledge. They will ONLY sell you their "proprietary" wares. Cobb is well on the way to making the SB and CPE tuning "obsolete" by giving us the knowledge and capability to do anything needed within the ECU via AP flash.

Note that the AP/ATR does it ALL within the ECU and YOU can access/tune it however you want where the SB requires additional hardware (the SB itself plus splicing or PnP harness) and ECU "standard" flashes performed ONLY by CPE. The AP/ATR is by far the "BEST" tuning solution.

Oh, and to the OP, do NOT screw around with a MBC. FYI, the max boost before fuel cut on the OEM tune is 18.21psi and it drops to 11.43psi by 7k rpms...
 
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we're not arguing which tuning solution is better. we're wondering how the OP intends to tune his car without using either one......
 
we're not arguing which tuning solution is better. we're wondering how the OP intends to tune his car without using either one......


Yeah, I wasn't going there, but....

Anyway, as I posted above, tuning can't be done without an EMS, either piggy or flash....
 
if you want 400+hp cpe

if you want something simple with a reasonable bump in power, AP
 
see sig

yes i hit it, i have since updated my protune so I can hit higher targets safely. ive probably picked up another 15-20whp. I intend to put in a testpipe, which is good for another 5-10whp
 
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