Tackling the Rear Motor Mount

[Luken10]

I am finally on break from school, and have decided I can't put off replacing the rear motor mount any longer. I have read just about every thread on here on how to do it, and the easiest way seems to be taking off the intake manifold. I have been reading through the service manual on how to do it, and it seems like a mini overhaul. There are three gaskets that I will need to replace and I have do drain the coolant before taking off the throttle body. I don't mind replacing the gaskets, but I just flushed the coolant and got the perfect ratio about a month ago.

Does anyone know any shortcuts to the process? Or will it be one of those things where I am going to end up replacing half the parts because "I might as well do it since it is apart." My car has given me zero problems with 150,00+ and I really don't want to uncover a bunch gremlins because I fiddled with too many things.

 

[kms1990]

is it a stick or auto tranny?

 

[Luken10]

It's a stick. If I could figure out a way to do it from underneath that would be even better. Doesn't seem like anyone has had any luck doing it that way though.

 

[kms1990]

which mount exactly are you referring to? is it round with a flat surface for the bolts or square with a rounded top to it and bolts sticking out? when me and a friend did my clutch we were able to get at (obviously) all the tranny mounts and we could have replaced the rear motor mount with the transmission out of the car by jacking up the engine. that pretty much means do all the mounts if your going to do that one. that way. that maybe your only choice. plus you get an extended look at every part of the car under the hood which gives you a great chance to do some easy maintenance, plus you have to take out the cv axles from the transmission and hub so you will lose your gear oil so you get new fluid there, which is a plus. if anyone else knows how to do that one better than my expereince from seeing it (still in great shape on my car) when doing clutch then chime in!

 

[JDM323J48]

I did all my mounts 2 days ago, I had the air box and battery box out and did the 3 nuts on the rear from the top by myself with long extensions and the universal joint with spring around it, for the bolt to trans bracket I used socket with medium extension with ring spanner underneath resting against drive shaft. hope this helps.
I did not remove manifold.

 

[StealthWyvern]

YOU DO NOT NEED TO TAKE OFF THE DAMN MANIFOLD!

The hardest part is breaking the bolts loose and a breaker bar will help you get that accomplished.

Edit: Here is my "trick" for the firewall bracket.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ount-Install&p=5244447&viewfull=1#post5244447

 

[Luken10]

I did all my mounts 2 days ago, I had the air box and battery box out and did the 3 nuts on the rear from the top by myself with long extensions and the universal joint with spring around it, for the bolt to trans bracket I used socket with medium extension with ring spanner underneath resting against drive shaft. hope this helps.
I did not remove manifold.

I am attempting to do it this way right now. Bought a bunch of extensions and universal joints. It seems totally doable, but right now I can not get the damn plastic bracket off the firewall!

YOU DO NOT NEED TO TAKE OFF THE DAMN MANIFOLD!

The hardest part is breaking the bolts loose and a breaker bar will help you get that accomplished.

Edit: Here is my "trick" for the firewall bracket.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ount-Install&p=5244447&viewfull=1#post5244447

I think this is exactly what I need to do, but I am not quite sure what your trick is. If I could get that rear nut off without removing the bracket that would be a lifesaver.

Update* Looks like you are talking about a bottom bolt holding the bracket. I couldn't see it, but i'll give it a go.

I am actually doing this all right now as I am typing, so a quick reply would be wonderful. Thanks guys!

 

[JDM323J48]

I am attempting to do it this way right now. Bought a bunch of extensions and universal joints. It seems totally doable, but right now I can not get the damn plastic bracket off the firewall!

I think this is exactly what I need to do, but I am not quite sure what your trick is. If I could get that rear nut off without removing the bracket that would be a lifesaver.

I am actually doing this all right now as I am typing, so a quick reply would be wonderful. Thanks guys!

I didn't have plastic thing in the way from memory but mine is right hand drive. just checked and no plastic in the way on right hand drive, sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

 

[StealthWyvern]

I am attempting to do it this way right now. Bought a bunch of extensions and universal joints. It seems totally doable, but right now I can not get the damn plastic bracket off the firewall!

I think this is exactly what I need to do, but I am not quite sure what your trick is. If I could get that rear nut off without removing the bracket that would be a lifesaver.

Update* Looks like you are talking about a bottom bolt holding the bracket. I couldn't see it, but i'll give it a go.

I am actually doing this all right now as I am typing, so a quick reply would be wonderful. Thanks guys!

Its simple go down 1 size in your socket sets small then your standard socket set size... I think down to 1/4 inch is what you need it makes getting that bracket off the firewall a cake walk.

 

[Nocturin]

Here I was thinking about just removing the bolt attached to the tranny and dropping the entire crossmemeber to get access to the front and rear mounts.... but I don't know if it's possible... it seemed to be but I haven't been under my car since I replaced the passenger side mount.

 

[StealthWyvern]

I've replaced the mount several times on several different proteges. The factory lock tight is a b**** to break loose on the main nuts and bolts.

 

[StealthWyvern]

Here I was thinking about just removing the bolt attached to the tranny and dropping the entire crossmemeber to get access to the front and rear mounts.... but I don't know if it's possible... it seemed to be but I haven't been under my car since I replaced the passenger side mount.

Why were you under the car to replace the passenger side mount? You can do both side mounts from above the car.

The front mount is fairly straight forward...


The trick to the rear mount is going at it from the top.

1) You will need to use a 1/4 ratchet set and use a deep socket with a small extension to remove the wiring harness off the firewall. Some find it easier to get to by removing the battery and throttle body. If you try this with a standard 3/8 ratchet set you will be hating life I promise you that.

2) You will need let’s say 2-3 feet of extensions and a breaker bar to break look the 3 nuts bolting the mount to the car.

3)The bolt that goes through the mount is best to get to from the bottom of the car.

4) snake that pita out the top.. this can be a pain…

5) reverse to put the new mount back in.


Edited: step 1

 

[hornsfan10609]

a big +1 to Stealth's post, do not remove the IM or TB, just pull the battery and cold pipe. When you remove the black plastic wire harness holder, bend the bottom bolt to the side do not snap it off. Then with several extensions break the bolts loose from the top and get the middle bolt from the bottom. It is not as bad as so many people say it is.

 

[Luken10]

I would like to report success! Your trick worked great StealthWyvern. At first I thought you meant use a smaller socket size, but obviously that didn't make sense haha. I have the exact same craftsman ratchet and extension, so it worked out great once I could get my hand in there.

Pretty sure I marginally rounded the bolt that goes through the mount while installing the new one. I used a 4 foot pipe over a ratchet for maximum leverage, but obviously that lacks finesse. I installed an 88 duro AWR mount so at least I know I won't have to repeat this whole process in 6 months. The vibration isn't horrible at idle, the main thing that bugs me is the sound when getting rolling in 1st gear. Incredibly loud throughout the cabin. On the plus side, turning the ignition sounds like a race car because of the way the starter noise gets sent through the cabin.


I'll post some things I learned, so hopefully it is easier for the next person who attempts this.
-Remove the strut tower brace and air intake, along with any brackets. Removing the battery will give you a little more room, but isn't necessary.
-BUY U-JOINTS, they are the key to even making this possible.
-I found it easier to remove the bolt going through the motor mount from the top of the car. If your car is on ramps or jack stands you most likely won't have enough leverage to break it free from the bottom. Also, If you place a wrench on the nut threaded on the bolt, it will wedge itself against the CV axle holding it perfectly in place. This will keep the whole bolt from spinning, and makes it a one man job.
-Just go buy a Dremel, or similarly shaped slim cut off tool. I originally bought a small hand saw, but you quickly find out there is no room to move. A Dremel will be able to cut off the stud flush with the firewall, relieving any pains from any amount of the stud getting in your way.
-Make sure your sockets are long enough to fit over the three studs and nuts holding the mount in place. I was using too short of a socket initially and couldn't figure out why I couldn't get a good grip on the nut.


Took me a solid five hours to finish everything. I could probably do it in half the time now that I know the process. Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[hornsfan10609]

Easiest way for the stud on the fire wall is just to bend it away so you can bent it back and reuse the nut. The rear mount sends the most vibes into the cabin, it will break in some but an 88 duro will still be pretty stiff.

 

[Luken10]

How did you bend it back? I feel like there isn't enough room to get a hammer or anything in there.

I bought the mount from a forum member used, so I am assuming it is already broken in. I'll be fine with it, makes the car sportier in my mind. I will just have to explain the situation to every girl I take on a date haha.

 

[P-Funk!]

...and break the plastic piece. It is not needed.

Yes on the UNIs and doing it from the top.

I was already pulling the intake manifold to red loctite the screws and remove VTCS so it did make it easier for me...

You do dnot need to drain coolant to remove the throttlebody - just plug the hose. In fact - why re-install it if you live in warmer climes? I just 'bypassed' that coolant line anyway with no ill effect! The T/B and manifold will be cooler/more efficient.

 

[Luken10]

Now that you mention that, I think you may have solved something I have been trying to find out for a while now. In the picture below is the tube with no hose over it supposed to be for coolant to the throttle body? If so it appears the previous owner has already removed it, as it has never been connected to anything as long as I have had the car.

<iframe src="https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=5AA886B2BC80B78C&resid=5AA886B2BC80B78C%21269&authkey=AIRGEsECsfRVYLI" width="180" height="320" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>

 

[P-Funk!]

I can't see the pic - but yeah people will do that...

If you have never had any icing problems (loss of performance on the highway in damp/near-freezing (at or below 34deg f) temp weather) then leave it alone!

 

[hornsfan10609]

That looks like a vacuum line, possily the line for the purge solenoid near the TB. Definitely not a coolant line.