Sway Bar Bushing Replacement?

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2015 Mazda 6 -- Skyactiv 2.5L NA W/ 91 Octane Tune
What's involved in replacing the sway bar bushings on a CX-5? Do you need to remove the sway bar to access? I heard it's difficult, especially if corrosion is involved.

What about a control arm bushing? Is it difficult to press in a new one when dealing with corrosion? Or better to just replace the entire control arm once the ball joint starts to wear?
 
In 2022 I changed the sway bar end links. Following months later were the lower control arms (torn bushings and torn leaking BJ boots) using OEM Mazda. Although not badly worn yet the tie rod ends also got replaced due to torn boots since they are not expensive and an alignment was going to be done anyways. Wanting to complete the last step to a "tight" front end (excluding struts-- not needed yet) I had the sway bar bushings replaced after laying on the ground and attempting it.
It all together made a nice improvement and I wasn't going to replace the parts piecemeal as they each totally failed due to wear.

Personally I wouldn't waste time trying to replace LCA bushings and this subject has been covered here before. Read some of the members experiences changing LCA's and associated difficulties. After reading them I decided that the place to start was if I could remove the ball joint pinch bolt. It didn't move when trying to spin it with my impact wrench. Then there's the very tight front bolt on the drivers side that doesn't allow straight on access because of transmission case clearance. Mazda also used threadlocker on the bolts. Lacking a lift and air tools (and youthful vigor and optimism) the job went to my mechanic. Money gladly spent to avoid a case of agony on my part. YMMV.

P.S. I went OEM on the LCA's assure quality and to avoid aftermarket parts possibly not fitting correctly and tieing -up my mechanic's lift and incurring extra labor charges. In addition to fitment problems apparently some aftermarket ball joints didn't last long either.
 
I had the sway bar bushings replaced after laying on the ground and attempting it.
It all together made a nice improvement and I wasn't going to replace the parts piecemeal as they each totally failed due to wear.
Please tell me what is involved in replacing the bushings. My mechanic was hesitant about it?

I do have 312k KM and live in a high corrosion area.
 
Access to the bolts that clamp the bushings in place is difficult to put it mildly. My mechanic charged me ~$80 labor to install them. Not surprised. I supplied the bushings which are quality aftermarket that cost~$20 so about 100 bux all in. The bushings I got were CTR brand (CTR is an OEM supplier) that even had the Mazda P/N molded in along with the latest revision number.

**** two things to note:

1) Per Mazda the bushings are installed with the split facing the rear of the vehicle.

2) The bushings are installed DRY, no lube as it will cause squeaking as per Mazda.

P.S. my bushings weren't really that bad yet but had some wear after comparing measurements to new one's. They didn't make a big difference but still added that final bit to tighten things up and was discernable which is what I wanted. At 300k kilometers I'd think your bushings are trashed especially if running rough roads.

Final note. Be careful if considering urethane bushings. They are way stiffer than rubber and can transmit road vibration right up into the steering wheel. Years ago I tried them on a previous car and my hands were getting numb from the steering wheel vibrations on the highway. The handling improved but replacing back to original rubber returned ride comfort and comfortable steering again.
 
My mechanics said the bushings are squeaking with the car up in the air but all other suspension components are tight.

There is some mild clunking coming from the front. I'll look into having it done.
 
It looks like i'll be leaving the bushings as is.

I was quoted 3hr by one mechanic, 5 hours by three.

They said you have to lift the engine, drop the subframe... No thanks.
 

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