Suspension..Noob...Please assist!

[MstrBates]

Hey everyone,
This is my first post on the forums, and I could use a little help with the precise parts to get to replace my suspension.

As of now, my '02 P5 has clunks in the front end, and the handling is crap compared to what it was a few years ago. On sharp corners, the front end bounces slightly to the outside of the turn. It can be pretty scary at high speeds (I'm pretty sure this is from chugging through sand.....long story). I have also noticed that the cabin noise level is much higher, but I'm pretty sure the wheel bearings are fine.

I have decided to go with the KYB GR-2s all around, but I don't want to lower the vehicle. Can I just throw stock springs on with them?

Also, what strut mounts would you recommend?

And do the stock endlinks work on the GR-2s?

Keep in mind that I am doing this on a budget! Plus, I also have to replace my rotors and pads, and perhaps even my rear calipers (pads are only rubbing on a portion of the rotor, the rest is rusty. Pretty sure they have had it).


I have a long drive planned 3 weeks from now, so any help would be greatly appreciated so I can get these parts ordered and installed ASAP!

 

[IshSonP5]

kyb's should be fine if you're planning on staying stock. get oem strut mounts from rockauto.com. they are very well priced, and for endlinks, you can go to an auto store (which may run you 50 or more), or even the rockauto website (very well priced yet again, but shipping can be a b****) as mentioned and order a stock pair (they are called sway bar links at stores or stabilizer bar links on the website). I would go with the 2002 ford escape ones though as they are thicker and a definite upgrade, if that is something you're interested in...if not stock is fine. also replace the sway bar bushings as they are probably worn out and that is most likely why you are getting a clunk sound.

 

[joe944]

I've been running illumina's of all things on stock springs for 100k miles with zero problems for what that is worth.

 

[MstrBates]

Thanks for the quick response and advice IshSonP5! I kept seeing references to the Ford endlinks, so I'll give them a go.

Also, one more question........I have also seen other people say that replacing the front endlinks is quite an ordeal. Is that true? I am going to do all the work myself with rented tools (most of my tools are on the East coast, ughh).

joe944---The illuminas look great, but are a little more expensive than what I can drop at the moment. Great to know they work with the stock springs though!

 

[MaxPower]

kyb's should be fine if you're planning on staying stock. get oem strut mounts from rockauto.com. they are very well priced, and for endlinks, you can go to an auto store (which may run you 50 or more), or even the rockauto website (very well priced yet again, but shipping can be a b****) as mentioned and order a stock pair (they are called sway bar links at stores or stabilizer bar links on the website). I would go with the 2002 ford escape ones though as they are thicker and a definite upgrade, if that is something you're interested in...if not stock is fine. also replace the sway bar bushings as they are probably worn out and that is most likely why you are getting a clunk sound.

Excellent advice. You can get everything on RockAuto. Be sure to Google for a 5% off coupon. If you want any OEM parts, onlinemazdaparts is the way to go. Alternately, you might want to check the classifieds on this forum or craigslist for a slightly used aftermarket suspension. KYB's and OEM springs are fine, but they only return the car to its stock form. If I could do it again, I would have spent another couple hundred to get an aftermarket suspension--after all, the handling of the Protege is what makes it fun. It's another few hundred dollars, but you get to enjoy it over thousands of miles and hundreds of hours--worth the premium probably. I completely understand about the budget, though.

The nuts on the endlinks can be very difficult to remove--you might need to cut them off so be ready for that possibility. And definitely replace all four tired strut mounts to get the best handling and to make sure you don't have to do this job again prematurely. These threads have good advice for replacing the struts:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=138220
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123750882-How-to-Change-shocks-and-struts!
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123660197-How-To-Lowering-Spring-Install!

To replace front swaybar bushings:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123774382-How-To-Replace-Front-Sway-Bar-Bushings

Good luck.

 

[kosteniuks17]

I recently just put on four tokico blues plus new endlinks and new rear sway bar. Wow what a difference and much better handling and a lower feel to the ride. I dont know how necessary it is for the strut mounts seeing our cars are still fairly new. If you end up buying new rubber covers for the shocks and mounts and screws, your looking at close to 750-1000 if you include endlinks. I used old parts for mounts and other suspension parts when installing my struts and springs and kept it right around 500.

 

[tweety2300]

10 years old is not fairly new...

The fact is is that everything is coming off anyway so why not just replace it all?

 

[IshSonP5]

Thanks for the quick response and advice IshSonP5! I kept seeing references to the Ford endlinks, so I'll give them a go.

Also, one more question........I have also seen other people say that replacing the front endlinks is quite an ordeal. Is that true? I am going to do all the work myself with rented tools (most of my tools are on the East coast, ughh).

joe944---The illuminas look great, but are a little more expensive than what I can drop at the moment. Great to know they work with the stock springs though!

endlinks have a spot for a hex wrench to go in the center. then you put an open end wrench around the nut, use pliers to hold the hex (or get a t-handled hex, or drill bit etc), and loosen the nut with the open end. no cutting required...this stops old endlinks from spinning while trying to turn the nut and makes it easier to break the nut loose.

10 years old is not fairly new...

The fact is is that everything is coming off anyway so why not just replace it all?

+1

 

[MstrBates]

Thanks MaxPower. I've ordered from Rockauto in the past, and you're right, the shipping sucks. I really have no interest in lowering my P5. I live in Los Angeles and there are unavoidable 8in. deep potholes EVERYWHERE. Plus, I go camping a lot and often have to park off the road on dirt or sand. If that wasn't an issue, I would probably go with the HPs, but I would rather not scrape off my bumpers and/or oil pan. Also, thanks for the links, I'll take a look at them in the next week.

Are there any other miscellaneous parts I will need for this job? So far I know I need:

-Struts
-Springs
-Mounts
-Endlinks (Ford escape front, stock rear)
-Bushings

IshSonP5--I read somewhere that using an impact drill will remove endlink nuts without having to deal with the hex bolts. Have you tried this?

 

[MstrBates]

Also, does anyone have any recommendations where to buy these parts for the least amount of cash? Quick and free shipping is also a plus

 

[MstrBates]

By miscellaneous parts I meant other parts that complete the entire strut assembly. I am not familiar with which brands/parts are best for the money. Are there any additional bolts/litle parts I may need?

My P5 is pretty rusty underneath as I bought it in Jersey (luckily, the body isn't so bad. I'll post pics later)

 

[tweety2300]

The rubber things that the springs sit on. You should be able to re use the bolts the 2 that bolt the strut to the control arm are special iirc and would have to be ordered from Mazda if you were to replace them, then there's 2 or 3 that bolt the mount to the strut tower which the new mounts should come with new studs and possibly new nuts as well

Rock auto is probably the cheapest place you're going to get quality stuff. You can also just use a dremal or saw saw to cut the end links off since they're not being re used, its too much of a hassle to worry about them. Even on a lift with an air impact it's still a pita and we just ended up cutting it off.

 

[IshSonP5]

IshSonP5--I read somewhere that using an impact drill will remove endlink nuts without having to deal with the hex bolts. Have you tried this?

I have not, but if you do that and don't cut them out as stated, please post how it worked.

 

[MstrBates]

Thanks everyone who replied. All the parts are ordered (although I just received an email saying the control arm bushings are out of stock on Rock Auto, yarrgg). I'll keep you updated on the progress.

 

[MstrBates]

I have replaced the rear struts and brakes.......tough work. The old endlinks took the most time since I don't have an electric saw. IshSonP5---The endlink nuts were so rusted that the impact gun didn't do a damn thing. I had to hand saw in between the sway bar and the ball joint to remove the old strut, then saw through the nut on the piece left on the sway bar end.

I made one small mistake though. I ordered 220mm rear end links that were listed as a replacement on RockAuto. 220mm is far too long and now the sway bar grinds against the lateral arm.......arrgg. I have emailed rockauto and asked for them to remove that part from being listed under the P5, and I'll be returning them and swapping them for some 6.5 in end links.

Other than that everything went well. The coils were a breeze with the clamps I rented from autozone.

Tomorrow is front strut day!

 

[Installshield 2]

^i'm really sorry i didn't see this until now, i would/ve worned you about the rear sway bar end links...Mazda's part numbers (and there for after market replacements) are completely broken in this regard...I don't know what car used those 220mm end links, but more often than not you'll end up with them...and they simply do not fit...the dealership will bug you about your car having 'a sport suspension'...the protege 5 only ever had ONE suspension option...the sedans had the MSP/MP3 varients, but that isn't regarded as a 'sport suspension' either...no idea what the problem is, but i had the exact same problem...

even worse...I retruned the dealership links, headed to autozone...and they had a ~195mm, which was ALSO too long...but just barely...

the proper size is 187mm i believe, but can't remember exactly...are they listing 6.5" on rock auto? that seems pretty short, but its been a few months since i messed with these...the only place i could verify that they were correct was napa, even the dealership ordered the longer variety after taking my vin number...and they were $42 each...