sub amp choice- alpine pdx 1.1000 vs. alpine M1000

[builthatch]

i currently have a pdx 4.150 and want to add a dedicated mono sub amp....

i was considering the pdx 1.1000 because i thought i'd be able to have it hidden (yet easily accessible) like my other pdx-

i don't think it will be possible, so at this point, i figure it might be worth saving major cash and just using the v-power M1000. the size difference is immense, but i think it matters not because i'll have to have whatever amp i choose on the back of this box anyway-

is there a reason for me not to just go with the v-power amp? yes, into my series-wired DVC (2ohm per coil, 4ohm total) sub the v-power will only be 600W rms vs. the PDX at 1000, but really...600w rms vs. the two bridged channels of my 4.150 should be sufficient, no?

ideally, i could even run the big dog v-power M2000 (1500Wx1 rms @ 4ohm) and still save significant cash, but 1500W is a little much for my lone 12.

 

[strytnyne]

thats one big box haha

 

[builthatch]

thats one big box haha

haha, yeah. thankfully it's removeable but being tall i have to do some funky leaning to get it out.

i used winisd pro to design it. it's amazing how different the manufacturer's suggested box specs are vs. the actual proper box design!

 

[Abaddon]

Keep in mind the PDX is actually putting out about 1200 watts... according to the birthsheets... so its literally double the power... so.. +3db....

Is the V power class D? I've never looked into them.. but even if they are class D, the PDX is far more efficient.

Double the power with your setup
Increase in efficiency
Smaller form factor...

I would go with the PDX.... just depends how much you're willing to spend..

 

[builthatch]

Keep in mind the PDX is actually putting out about 1200 watts... according to the birthsheets... so its literally double the power... so.. +3db....

Is the V power class D? I've never looked into them.. but even if they are class D, the PDX is far more efficient.

Double the power with your setup
Increase in efficiency
Smaller form factor...

I would go with the PDX.... just depends how much you're willing to spend..

yeah, the v-power mono amps are class D.

i hear you...i mean, i've planned on the pdx for a while, but-

the last thing that bothers me is is the pdx is 1200 or something rms...my sub can handle 500W rms...

the v-power, accounting for it's rating system would be right at the top of that RMS rating for my sub.

what do you think?

 

[asiancaucasian]

The PDX is a great amp but keep in mind that it's a digital amp which means it is extraordinarily efficient at delivering power but the downside is that its signal is not as clean. I would probably go with the V-Power to power up your sub.

 

[Abaddon]

The PDX is a great amp but keep in mind that it's a digital amp which means it is extraordinarily efficient at delivering power but the downside is that its signal is not as clean. I would probably go with the V-Power to power up your sub.

V-power and PDX are both class D, so your point isn't valid.

Also, with sub-bass frequencies.. it just doesn't matter...

the last thing that bothers me is is the pdx is 1200 or something rms...my sub can handle 500W rms...

the v-power, accounting for it's rating system would be right at the top of that RMS rating for my sub.

When you set the gain on the amp, you'll take care of all of those problems. You turn up the gain till the subs is distorting, then back off a little. You do this to keep the sub in its Golden Zone... But yes, if you ran the AMP to it's fullest.. and then played a lot of bass heavy tracks.. it would be more likely to blow with the PDX.

As long as you don't do that, you wont have to worry about blowing the sub, but the extra instantaneous power of the PDX "should" result in increased dynamics.

 

[Abaddon]

Also, don't forget there is a PDX 1.600......

 

[builthatch]

Also, don't forget there is a PDX 1.600......

thanks....

yeah, i'm rolling with that, the 1.600. i was thinking about having the headroom with the 1.1000 incase i wanted to add another sub, but then i realized i'm already at 2.5 cubes with this one sub. there is just no way i can put even more box in there and live with it. and if properly powered this will be MORE than enough bass. i mean, honestly...it already is, i just want to see what more is there.

then, i said, ok, well, if i don't get the 1.1000 and im going to stick with this one sub, why spend the cash on a pdx considering the price differences vs. the v-powers.

but, in reality, the sexiness of the pdx, coupled with the fact that i already have a pdx, and the 1.600 is ideal, so i'll roll with that.

but first...im going to get a legit alternator.

 

[Abaddon]

but first...im going to get a legit alternator.

You don't need one. Do the big three upgrade and you'll be fine.

 

[builthatch]

You don't need one. Do the big three upgrade and you'll be fine.

how so?

the pdx is 600w total, rms, as is the 1.600 (well, actually more according to birth sheets) so 1200w rms between the two amps.

so for just those two amps, that is 1200w rms, divided by say 14v...that is 85amps add'l draw on a car with a 90 amp alternator.

wire upgrades and stuff are good, but that math seems to be working against me in a major way.

 

[Abaddon]

Your amps wont be drawing anywhere NEAR that current during music... Trust me on this.. maybe 5-10 amps during regular listening...

Those RMS values are for Sin waves recorded at reference volume, with everything maxed out.

I have three PDX amps in my car and I havnt even done the big three upgrade, and I get no headlight dimming at all..

 

[builthatch]

I have three PDX amps in my car and I havnt even done the big three upgrade, and I get no headlight dimming at all..

oh s***, really?! also, i have a GT w/ HID so my lights should ideally take less draw when running.

dang.......how come everywhere you look it stresses using that formula with RMS wattage to figure out draw?

how about if i listen to alot of bass heavy music loudly while driving?

 

[Abaddon]

oh s***, really?! also, i have a GT w/ HID so my lights should ideally take less draw when running.

dang.......how come everywhere you look it stresses using that formula with RMS wattage to figure out draw?

how about if i listen to alot of bass heavy music loudly while driving?

Do the big three upgrade. Your enemy is voltage, not current.

By reducing the resistance from the alt, to battery, to ground, to positive.. you're letting the stock alternator and battery perform to their fullest.

The big three upgrade will cost you a couple of bucks.. you probably have enough wire sitting around to do it for free... if that doesn't work... then you get look into a HO alternator.. but I think it's just going to lead to other problems.

Also, don't forget that your front stage takes considerably less power to get loud then a subwoofer does.. so although you have 300rms in the front.. your tweeter is probably using about 10-15watts, and the mid is probably using about 50-75 before it gets to the point where it would hurt your ears... that's why you'll notice that the gains on the front stage are much lower then your sub stage.

So you really only have to worry about the 600rms pull from the PDX. Which, again... is going to be considerably less then a reference wave (even with bass heavy music) and its not a true RMS signal.. even if it seams like the bass never lets up, its still a dynamic signal.

 

[pat_smith1969]

Get the PDX (the 1.600). That 1.1000 is way overkill for that sub. I recommend the PDX because if you want to hide the amp you can simply plop it under one of your front two seats. I have looked and they fit perfectly. No muss, no fuss.

By putting the amp under the front seat, and not on the back of the box, you can still easily remove the box if you get a flat tire.

If you are worried about big current draws when the sub hits then add a good sized capacitor. They will not replace having enough of an alternator but they can help on big fast power draws. I agree with the above posters though, probably not necessary.

 

[builthatch]

Get the PDX (the 1.600). That 1.1000 is way overkill for that sub. I recommend the PDX because if you want to hide the amp you can simply plop it under one of your front two seats. I have looked and they fit perfectly. No muss, no fuss.

By putting the amp under the front seat, and not on the back of the box, you can still easily remove the box if you get a flat tire.

If you are worried about big current draws when the sub hits then add a good sized capacitor. They will not replace having enough of an alternator but they can help on big fast power draws. I agree with the above posters though, probably not necessary.

thanks.

after reviewing the wire gauge from the alt to the battery, etc, i think i'm going to upgrade those wires anyway. i mean, the wire from my alt to my battery is half the size of the wire i'm running to the PDX i already have!

under the front seats i believe to be a no go because i already have the stock amp under one, and the stock "sub" enclosure under the other, and both are currently operational. i think that i will be able to fit the 1.600 next to my current PDX if i move this once over....

i guess we'll see!