2007~2015: Stripped and epoxied bolt on CX-9 oil pan?

[jplee3]

Hey guys,

So I was attempting to do my first DIY oil change on our '08 CX9 (AWD/GT Model) and the bolt just didn't want to budge. I went to the extent of pulling out my Milwaukee stubby 3/8" and going at it but the thing appears to be stuck on there.

I'm suspecting that at some point, whatever shop or mechanic was working on this stripped the oil pan thread by over-torquing the thing and decided to epoxy it rather than be honest and tell me (or my brother) what happened. I bought the car from my brother in 2019 and he never did his own oil changes either, so it may have been like this for who knows how long. Of course, I had been taking it to my mechanic ever since then regularly for oil checks and other maintenance...you'd think if he noticed this he would have spoke up and said something... unless he or [probably] one of his guys screwed up and thought I'd never change my oil and would likely never find out...? Either way, I have no way of knowing for sure.

As far as options: I've heard of Timesert, Helicoil but not sure how well that would work here. Otherwise, it seems changing the oil pan is the last resort - I called a couple mechanics in my area and both said there was at least one labor method that involved removing the engine (which would be a significant cost - $1500~). One of the mechanics saw an option to change the part without having to remove the engine (which, if true, would put the cost at $700~).

Anyone know if it's possible to change out the oil pan on this without having to remove the engine?

I can keep trying to remove the bolt but honestly, if the impact wrench isn't making it budge, I don't know how hopeful we can be about it. Also, I don't want to end up stripping the bolt (every time I've run the impact on it I see small bits of metal dust coming out....)

 

[cz5gt]

one option that comes to my mind is heating it up to high temp. If nothing doesnt works well changing the pan can be only option because its unknown in what condition the thread may be.
The plug in the picture also doesnt seem oem to me.

You may be able to suck the oil through the oil check line with a manual pump. Wont be exactly the same as full drain but its doable if you dont want to deal with the pan.

 

[Zoom49]

one option that comes to my mind is heating it up to high temp.

I agree with this, heat should break the epoxy down. Pan threads may be bad, but deal with one issue at a time.

 

[rowlands57]

If it is not leaking get a topsider or fluid transfer pump at Harbor Freight. I have used that method on several of my European cars that call for pumping out through the dipstick and decided to try it on my 2012 CX9. It works very well and get's all the oil out without needing to remove the drain plug.

I believe the transfer pump at Harbor Freight was about $30. It hooks up to the battery and does a fine job for me, not just on the Mazda but on other vehicles as well. It's not great for boxer engines, such as the Subaru engines, but for the most part it's great. On my 2.0 Audi I can change the oil completely from up top and it's about a clean a process as any oil change I've ever done.

The only thing you'll need to get under the Mazda for is the oil filter and I can get to that without even lifting the vehicle.

 

[jplee3]

Thank

If it is not leaking get a topsider or fluid transfer pump at Harbor Freight. I have used that method on several of my European cars that call for pumping out through the dipstick and decided to try it on my 2012 CX9. It works very well and get's all the oil out without needing to remove the drain plug.

I believe the transfer pump at Harbor Freight was about $30. It hooks up to the battery and does a fine job for me, not just on the Mazda but on other vehicles as well. It's not great for boxer engines, such as the Subaru engines, but for the most part it's great. On my 2.0 Audi I can change the oil completely from up top and it's about a clean a process as any oil change I've ever done.

The only thing you'll need to get under the Mazda for is the oil filter and I can get to that without even lifting the vehicle.

Thanks! Which HF pump is it on their site again? I looked but couldn't find anything. I have a manual transfer pump from them, Multi-Use Transfer Pump, but I imagine it would take forever to pump everything out. Someone else had suggested this one though - https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned).
I'm leaning towards doing it this way vs stressing myself out over dealing with the old mechanic or, if I decide not to deal with him ever again, finding a new mechanic local in my area (who won't rip me off). I may just change the oil using the topside method this time and then worry about the bolt (or pan) later. We have a road trip coming up after next week so I don't want to be stressed out and scrambling around.

I've heard mixed things about topside oil changes (where sediment, shavings, and significant amounts of residual oil remain). Have you run into any of this? Is there a specific method or 'technique' you have to use (like moving the tube around or reinserting it several times) to ensure you've gotten all the oil out? And have you tried pouring in some engine cleaner or additive (like Seafoam)? to mix and clean out any residual oil and sucking that out before pouring the new oil in? Or is that overkill and not necessary?

I agree with this, heat should break the epoxy down. Pan threads may be bad, but deal with one issue at a time.

one option that comes to my mind is heating it up to high temp. If nothing doesnt works well changing the pan can be only option because its unknown in what condition the thread may be.
The plug in the picture also doesnt seem oem to me.

You may be able to suck the oil through the oil check line with a manual pump. Wont be exactly the same as full drain but its doable if you dont want to deal with the pan.

I've heard about the heat method as well. I'd feel uncomfortable about this. Already, I'm in a tight space using the curb as a jack/ramp lol. The last thing I'd want is to be playing with a heat gun or my torch (I have a TS8000 but only have used it with propane) while laying under the car hahaha. Also, even if I get to that point my personal experience with cars is that 50% of the time a "problem" becomes a "big problem" and just leads to more scrambling and stressing out. Not something I want to deal with at least right before a road trip

 

[rowlands57]

I use the transfer pump about 1/2 hour after driving so the oil is still very warm. I never had any issues about residue in the engine on any of the vehicles I have when done this way. I do not recommend trying it on a cold engine.

I insert the thin tube all the way until I feel it hit the bottom of its travel and that seems to be the sweet spot for the Mazda.

I don't see the pump I got at Harbor Freight but this one on Amazon looks identical: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

I'm sure you'll be good with this method going forward and you may find yourself using on more than just the Mazda. As I said, it works well on almost all the vehicles I have tried it on and on my outdoor equipment too for that matter.

 

[PTguy]

That is the oil drain plug, right? With a beat up hex head. Not a bolt.

jp, you have options. (a) pump out the warm oil as described above. Don't add any solvent or anything unless you add more oil, then pump it all out to get as much of the solvent out as possible (basically, don't use solvent.) (b) find a good shop to cut off the drain plug head, drill it out, and use a TIME-SERT to replace the threads. This is superior to a Heli-Coil. (c) most expensive, a replacement oil pan.

Pro tip for a steel oil pan...magnetize the drill bit and the tap by wrapping several turns of heavy gauge wire around them and touching the ends of the wire to the battery terminals. This will cause the drill bit and the tap to catch bits of the steel and keep them from getting pushed inside the pan. To demagnetize wrap the wire in the other direction, same number of turns, and touch to the battery again. For aluminum coat the bit or tap with very heavy grease to catch as much of the metal bits as possible.

 

[GLT]

Obviously whoever did the last oil change is the most likely suspect. Go back to them and see what they say. Hard to imagine they could in any way deny responsibility. If you need to pull the plug, heat should help break it free and a good mechanic can install a rubber expansion plug, a heli-coil, or tap it and install a larger plug. It's a 15 year old car so spending big bucks really does not make much sense.

 

[Silly Wabbit]

Obviously whoever did the last oil change is the most likely suspect. Go back to them and see what they say. Hard to imagine they could in any way deny responsibility. If you need to pull the plug, heat should help break it free and a good mechanic can install a rubber expansion plug, a heli-coil, or tap it and install a larger plug. It's a 15 year old car so spending big bucks really does not make much sense.

Very true. Just tap and install like a fumoto valve so you don't need to unbolt anything to drain.