stock shifter question w/ pics
- Thread starter nautical_lifens
- Start date
nautical_lifens
Member
- :
- pro 5
you can just use a heat gun... this is just a cheap mod and only for looks remember... im paying for school and dont have money for a shifter...
Yes, it is only $22 shipped off of ebay and it's a hunk of metal, but i know of the cheapos rattling a bit if they have the pivot ball milled slightly too small. I'm debating whether to spend the $22 or just mod my stocker for FREE. I have the Kartboy bushings I'll install and I don't want a really short shift lever anyhow.
I may go with the ebay just for kicks but use the stock leather shift knob on it to keep it looking stock and keep the height.
I may go with the ebay just for kicks but use the stock leather shift knob on it to keep it looking stock and keep the height.
paintbalr07
Member
- :
- 2002 Protege5
I know its along shot but... I took out my center console this morning to clean it(ewww previous owner) and notice the stock shifter has like a billet aluminum piece on top of it... i was wondering and also heard that this piece comes off and then you can just put your shift knob on the lower black part? anyone? thanks
hmmm so thats the oem shifter on your protege right, well my shifter doesnt even look like that, the handle is all a one piece, i bought my car used so im wondering if i already have an after market shifter or not
nautical_lifens
Member
- :
- pro 5
this is a pro5 dont know if that makes a difference.. but if yours doesnt look like mine i would leave it
paintbalr07
Member
- :
- 2002 Protege5
lol well i pulled mine apart and turns out its a b&m short throw shifter.
SCORE!!!
maybe if you really want to operate a torch inside your car, next to all those plastic bits - i wouldn't
Rusty Protege
Member
- :
- 2002 Protege 5
I shortened mine somewhat like this, however it was removed from the car. The joint that is heated is made with something like 3M 5200 polyurethane sealer (for boats) that gives a good bond yet gives additional viboration isolation. I thought the rod by itself would be a little too short, so I cut down the black shaft about 1 1/4" and re-attached the threaded portion by drilling 2 holes through the whole works and used the mandrel from a stainless pop rivet for a pin and peened the ends, that way you can still use threaded knobs. I also ran a dye nut down the thread to allow the knob to screw down a little lower.
I had a TWM but got tired of the effort required and put the stocker back in after modifying it. I also have the kartboy bushing and this helps a great deal.
I tried to modify my twm by cutting, shortening and rewelding it back together to lengthen the throw/lower the effort somewhat between stock and original, but the weldor didn't use enough heat and the weld failed when I tried a little NDT in the bench vise. Not entirely his fault as I was trying not to remove the bearings.
All in all, I'm pretty happy with shortening just the top half of the stock shifter combined with the KB bushing. I also made a new leather boot and ended up with a MOMO leather knob, so it looks stock.
Rusty in San Diego
I had a TWM but got tired of the effort required and put the stocker back in after modifying it. I also have the kartboy bushing and this helps a great deal.
I tried to modify my twm by cutting, shortening and rewelding it back together to lengthen the throw/lower the effort somewhat between stock and original, but the weldor didn't use enough heat and the weld failed when I tried a little NDT in the bench vise. Not entirely his fault as I was trying not to remove the bearings.
All in all, I'm pretty happy with shortening just the top half of the stock shifter combined with the KB bushing. I also made a new leather boot and ended up with a MOMO leather knob, so it looks stock.
Rusty in San Diego
Last edited:
Rusty Protege
Member
- :
- 2002 Protege 5
I clamped the shifter in my vice (removed from the car) and used a propane torch and a big screwdriver through the bottom. Applied a twisting force while heating it up and it finally gave away. I knew I was taking a risk, but I did have the TWM in my car at the time. Cleaned most of the sealer out of the threaded end and all the way off the bottom half. Hacksawed the bottom half about 1 1/4" and pressed the remainders back together. There was some sealer on the threaded female section, so the fit was tight. I drilled two 1/8" holes and pinned it together. I guess you could go to westmarine and get some black 5200 (slow cure) and just glue it back, but the cure time is 7 days for a full cure.
