Stock Kenwood amp run @2Ohms?
- Thread starter TenaciousB
- Start date
Yes. It should be plug and play.
Try it for a few days with the amp mounted in the stock position. If it starts shutting off on you, mount it somewhere else so it isn't upside down at the top of the trunk (You could also try hooking up a 12v fan to blow air across it).
A 4ohm DVC is not recommended unless you wire it in series for an 8ohm load. Running 2ohm will surely reduce the life of the amp and cause it to overheat much faster.
Most of the improvement you will hear with the 4ohm sub is not the sub but rather doubling the power output of the amp. So essentially, any 4ohm sub will sound better than the stock 8ohm sub.
Try it for a few days with the amp mounted in the stock position. If it starts shutting off on you, mount it somewhere else so it isn't upside down at the top of the trunk (You could also try hooking up a 12v fan to blow air across it).
A 4ohm DVC is not recommended unless you wire it in series for an 8ohm load. Running 2ohm will surely reduce the life of the amp and cause it to overheat much faster.
Most of the improvement you will hear with the 4ohm sub is not the sub but rather doubling the power output of the amp. So essentially, any 4ohm sub will sound better than the stock 8ohm sub.
Paul said:
The heatsinks are on the bottom in stock placement. Since heat rises it doesn't have anywhere to go. With a 4 ohm load your amp works harder making more watts and more heat. If you don't push things hard I'm sure it would be fine. If you use loudness and have the gain up ect.. on warm days it's going to overheat.
there is a level adjust on the amp that takes a tiny screwdriver, on the side with the cables. You have to remove the amp to adjust it IIRC.
I removed the stupid metal badge that covers the amp, cause I think it gets in the way of cooling. I was planning on getting a JL and leaving the amp in stock position, but I never got around to getting a new sub.
I removed the stupid metal badge that covers the amp, cause I think it gets in the way of cooling. I was planning on getting a JL and leaving the amp in stock position, but I never got around to getting a new sub.
TenaciousB
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- 03 MSP Black Mica #254
Well I finally broke down and got a new sub this weekend........I got the 10" Sony XS-L102P5 and I put it in a 0.75cu ft sealed enclosure.....and retained the stock amp. And holly cow what a night and day difference.... the sony hits HARD...I turned the bass setting down from +4 to +1 and the NF down from +4 to 0. Sounds awesome....I'm going to play with the settings on the HU and the amp later today when I can drive to a empty parking lot, I didn't want to distrub the neighboors this morning...
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Yep, non-fading which is just the RCA set it's hooked up to. Head unit has 3 sets of RCA's labled front, rear, non-fading. Make sure you use the front and rear high pass filter at 60 or 80hz. If you have had the battery unhooked in your car it will be set to full bass going to front and rear. You also need to set the low pass filter for the sub (60 or 80hz sounds best in my setup) or the sub will be playing full range and sound like crap.BradC said:
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Yay-Boost is right except the terminology would be "low-pass" for the subwoofer and "high-pass" for the other speakers.
I usually low-pass the subwoofer around 70Hz and high-pass the speakers around 85-90Hz. The small gap allows a smooth transition between the lows and highs.
I usually low-pass the subwoofer around 70Hz and high-pass the speakers around 85-90Hz. The small gap allows a smooth transition between the lows and highs.
