stock audio question

not sure about the headunit, but stock speakers are 25 watts each. So headunit is either 25x4 or a bit less (like 20x4 or something)
 
audio

that seems alright for a stock sound system probably not much base out of 4 25watt mids...though, although is it a universal size for putting an aftermarket headunit in the dashboard?

and the speakers are easily changed, correct? two in the doors and two behind the back seats
 
Stock headunit around 10 watts rms. Dash kits are available to put aftermarket radios in. Speakers come right out.
 
audio

sweet, put some nice 50watt mids in their, 200-300watt head unit, maybe aftermarket amp, small sub, nothing large then you just like your ricing your car and panels, screws and windows start rattling and coming lose, which bugs me in my van right now, it has an awesome sound system (Infinity Stock Sound System) has awesome bass but the back panels and windows are loose so its sounds like the speakers are going when they are fine, but i really have problems finding the rattling
 
that was the 1st two things that I did when I bought my baby within a month. Got myself Kenwood KDC series headunit (50x4 output) and 4 pioneer speakers 220 watts max
 
I changed my stock unit because it wouldnt play burned cd's for me. One of the last things I bought for the car actually. I dont even remember what it sounds like. :)
 
MotegiMazdA said:
I changed my stock unit because it wouldnt play burned cd's for me. One of the last things I bought for the car actually. I dont even remember what it sounds like. :)

i changed mine in my protege because it didn't want to play any cd, i got a 50x4 MOSFET Pioneer head unit, 260W in the back and 200W on the doors
 
audio

hows the protege for sound wise, if you have a nice system does it sound good in the car, i know some cars are not to good with sound dynamics
 
Oh dear God

1. A actory head unit has about 10watts x4 and aftermarket one has 15 x 4 to 25x4. 50x4 is a max number the unit is theoreticly capable of. Its called a peak power rating and its useless.

2. Speakers DO NOT HAVE WATTS. Putting in speakers of a certain power rating (watts) only means that they are capable of taking that power if you have it to give. A head unit and even most amps will never get near 200 watts to each speaker.

3. Speakers that say "200 watts" on the box are again quoting a technicly possible peak value. Again this is a peak power rating. The speaker could handle it for a millisecond before becoming a moltent pile of metal and plastic. These speakers are usualy around the 30-60 watts rms range.


4. THERE WILL NEVER BE A 200-300 watt HEAD UNIT!!!!!!!














AAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
 
Last edited:
1sty said:
Oh dear God

1. A actory head unit has about 10watts x4 and aftermarket one has 15 x 4 to 25x4. 50x4 is a max number the unit is theoreticly capable of. Its called a peak power rating and its useless.

2. Speakers DO NOT HAVE WATTS. Putting in speakers of a certain power rating (watts) only means that they are capable of taking that power if you have it to give. A head unit and even most amps will never get near 200 watts to each speaker.

3. Speakers that say "200 watts" on the box are again quoting a technicly possible peak value. Again this is a peak power rating. The speaker could handle it for a millisecond before becoming a moltent pile of metal and plastic. These speakers are usualy around the 30-60 watts rms range.


4. THERE WILL NEVER BE A 200-300 watt HEAD UNIT!!!!!!!














AAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!


........like I never knew that........the only way to push all watts through the speakers is to get an amplifier hooked up to them.
 
this thread got me to join this forum... (my first post)

for fun I decided to test the power of my stock head unit by hooking up a multimeter (voltmeter) to my speaker output on the unit.

I used a whitenoise cd and played a track that had a 20hz to 20000hz frequency range

using my laptop and FFT spectrograph software I turned the unit up to a point where it had no more than 0.04%THD at any given time.... which is a respectable and moderate amount.

Im using a set of 6 ohm speakers

and the voltmeter read: no less than 4.22 V

plug that into the equation: W=Vsquared/A and we get a wattage of

Da-da-da-DAAAA! about 3 WATTS per channel (1 channel driven at a time)

Multiply that by root means square (.707) to get our respectable RMS rating:

4 x 2.2 watts RMS (20-20khz, 6 ohm, 0.04%THD)

we can increase that number quite a bit by going to a 4ohm speaker with 1% thd and only play a 1khz tone... infact we can get a 8volt min. reading doing this... which translates under these circumstances to about:

4 x 11.3 watts RMS (1khz, 4ohm, 1%THD)

and if we were to measure peak performance I can use a 11.22 volt peak reading under who knows how much distortion... and maybe plop in a 3.5 ohm speaker load to create an utterly amazing and obviously much more powerful sounding:

4 x 35 Watts peak

So if you wanna know how many watts your deck is... just pick any number between 1 and 140 watts and you wont be wrong.
 
banden said:
this thread got me to join this forum... (my first post)

for fun I decided to test the power of my stock head unit by hooking up a multimeter (voltmeter) to my speaker output on the unit.

I used a whitenoise cd and played a track that had a 20hz to 20000hz frequency range

using my laptop and FFT spectrograph software I turned the unit up to a point where it had no more than 0.04%THD at any given time.... which is a respectable and moderate amount.

Im using a set of 6 ohm speakers

and the voltmeter read: no less than 4.22 V

plug that into the equation: W=Vsquared/A and we get a wattage of

Da-da-da-DAAAA! about 3 WATTS per channel (1 channel driven at a time)

Multiply that by root means square (.707) to get our respectable RMS rating:

4 x 2.2 watts RMS (20-20khz, 6 ohm, 0.04%THD)

we can increase that number quite a bit by going to a 4ohm speaker with 1% thd and only play a 1khz tone... infact we can get a 8volt min. reading doing this... which translates under these circumstances to about:

4 x 11.3 watts RMS (1khz, 4ohm, 1%THD)

and if we were to measure peak performance I can use a 11.22 volt peak reading under who knows how much distortion... and maybe plop in a 3.5 ohm speaker load to create an utterly amazing and obviously much more powerful sounding:

4 x 35 Watts peak

So if you wanna know how many watts your deck is... just pick any number between 1 and 140 watts and you wont be wrong.
Nicely done.
How did you determin amperage, measure or calculate?
 
1sty said:
Nicely done.
How did you determin amperage, measure or calculate?

Im thinking you are thinking about:

W = V x A

which I believe is used more for applying DC voltage...

I'm using the equation

P = E2 / R

(E2 = E squared)

P is power measured in watts
E is energy measured in AC volts
R is resistance measured in ohms

it is accurate although there are flaws in my way of measuring...

speaker has variable resistance and can give inaccurate readings... you really should use a resistor instead...

my multimeter is rather slow at measuring volts
a scope could measure volts at a precise location in the signal or sine wave.

THD is very debatable and my program doesnt weigh high frequency harmonics heavier even though they are more likely to be audible. (so some amps with lower THD may have more audible distortion)

____________________________________________________________

The key for amplifiers is to look at all the information in the brackets after the wattage specification... DONT GO BY THE BIGGEST NUMBER ON THE BOX (even though your eyes are naturally drawn to larger fonts and capital letters)

and for speakers the build quality(look), efficiency (db/1meter), and frequency response (hz) are as (if not more) important as the power handling. You are better off over powering a speaker (where you can hear it if it is distorting) than underpowering a speaker (where there could be damaging inaudible distortion present)

By and large the MOST important thing is to find a good match between the amplifier and speaker:

If you have a low power deck use a high efficiency speaker with a lower power rating.

If you have an external amplifier (even though a high effeciency speaker would be fine...) the goal would be to find a speaker that takes advantage of the extra power to provide more control and thus better frequency response without straining and distorting.
 
umm, would any of u keep the stock in dash 6 disc changer? im thinking about getting more powerful door speakers and rear speakers. does anyone know how many watts the stock 6 disc changer can take. im thinking about 200 max watts, such as 50 watts in each speaker. so 100watts upgrade. also, my cd player plays burned cd's fine.
 
Hey 1'sty. You know I was kidding with you here......

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Protege52003
craig,

I have V-power in my HU, she must put out 240 Watts.......

-R



104 watts total, 26 x 4
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2005 Mazda 6s
2003 Protege LX
2001 Suzuki Katana

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this old post got bumped up!

don't want you to think i am an idiot.....

-R
 
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