"SSAFC vacuum line connection" and "SSAFC to AEM Wideband wiring" questions

[pomidor]

"SSAFC vacuum line connection" and "SSAFC to AEM Wideband wiring" questions

** SSAFC Vacuum line **:

What's the best place on the intake manifold to hook this up to? I already have a boost controller hooked up to the manifold vacuum line closest to the driver side. Should I put another T there and hook that up to the SSAFC, or use one of the other manifold vacuum hoses; if so which one should I T off from?


** Hooking up SSAFC to AEM Wideband **:

The instruction for connecting the SSAFC to the stock O2 sensor wire at the ECU harness is straight forward, but I also want to connect my Wideband to the SSAFC (for data logging) and I'm not sure which wire on the SSAFC connects with which wire on the Wideband.

SSAFC has four orange wires. I'm guessing that I am to use only one of them to connect to the Wideband, and ignore the other three; correct? Does it matter which one I use?

AEM Wideband wire that I should be hooking up to the SSAFC is the "WHITE 0-5V" one; correct? Bottom of page 3 shows the wires on the Wideband:

http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images/Products/Installation Instructions 30-4100.pdf


Alright, so with this setup, I'll have two O2 sensors hooked up to the SSAFC (stock one and Wideband). In such a setup, what's the point of having the SSAFC use the stock O2 sensor instead of the more accurate Wideband (for both: piggybacking and data logging)?

 

[KrayzieFox]

Connect the vacuum line to any other line directly off the manifold, the closer to the manifold the better. Have you considered a vacuum block? It would make things much easier. I would also suggest running the line through the passenger side wiring harness grommet to make the length of the line as short as possible. The grommet pops out pretty easy using a screwdriver from the engine bay side, and then you can just punch a hole through it for the vacuum line. The inner diameter of the vacuum line coming off the AFC is 1/8".

And yes, you will just use one of the 4 orange wires from the AFC, doesn't matter which one, and connect it to the wideband data logging wire -- which is blue if I recall correctly. I don't know what the white does, but the blue is the serial port for data logging.

And in an effort to answer your last question, I don't think you can replace the stock O2 sensor with a WB O2 because it wouldn't provide the stock ECU with the right signals to allow the car to run smoothly, or maybe you can.. I don't know for sure. Either way it's more work than it's worth since you can just tap into the existing O2 wiring for the piggyback function and the wideband is just a diagnostic and tuning tool.

 

[Sport23]

The SSAFC clamps the voltage on the stock 02 to force the ECU into open loop mode. It doesn't use it as an input or for data logging.

 

[pomidor]

The SSAFC clamps the voltage on the stock 02 to force the ECU into open loop mode. It doesn't use it as an input or for data logging.

I see

 

[pomidor]

...Have you considered a vacuum block? It would make things much easier.

What is a "vacuum block"?

I would also suggest running the line through the passenger side wiring harness grommet to make the length of the line as short as possible. The grommet pops out pretty easy using a screwdriver from the engine bay side, and then you can just punch a hole through it for the vacuum line. The inner diameter of the vacuum line coming off the AFC is 1/8".

If "as short as possible" is the best choice, why don't I just Velcro the SSAFC to the strut tower. From there, it's pretty close to the intake manifold, and I can run the wires through the area you suggested to get to the ECU. Does that sound like a good idea, or will there be too much heat under the hood for the SSAFC to handle?

I wonder if anybody has done this and *is* running fine. I could post another thread with that very question (I'm just thinking out loud).

... use one of the 4 orange wires from the AFC [...] and connect it to the wideband data logging wire -- which is blue if I recall correctly. I don't know what the white does, but the blue is the serial port for data logging.

Sh!t. I'm even more confused now. I just don't want to connect a wrong wire and ehf something up. The white wire seems like the correct one. Would you mind taking a peek at the pic from the AEM install manual? I've copy/pasted the sections of interest:

And in an effort to answer your last question, I don't think you can replace the stock O2 sensor with a WB O2 because it wouldn't provide the stock ECU with the right signals to allow the car to run smoothly..

I assumed as much, but I always like a second opinion.

Thanks

 

[KrayzieFox]

What is a "vacuum block"?

http://protegegarage.com/659-product-659.html

Vacuum blocks are like a power strip for vacuum lines, they allow you to run lines to all your accessories from one source. You tap the brake booster line to give the vacuum block a vacuum source and then run a line to whatever you need. I have one with 5 fittings, with lines running to my WGA, BOV, AFC, gauge, and boost controller. It just eliminates using tons of T-taps and makes sure you have a strong vacuum source throughout.

If "as short as possible" is the best choice, why don't I just Velcro the SSAFC to the strut tower. From there, it's pretty close to the intake manifold, and I can run the wires through the area you suggested to get to the ECU. Does that sound like a good idea, or will there be too much heat under the hood for the SSAFC to handle?

I wonder if anybody has done this and *is* running fine. I could post another thread with that very question (I'm just thinking out loud).

I wouldn't suggest this. You want the AFC inside so you can plug it in and tune from your laptop, and it's probably not a good idea to have it in the engine bay due to heat as well. Most people put it in the glove box, the wires will reach the ECU and if you run the vacuum line through the grommet I mentioned it won't end up being longer than 2-3 feet.

Sh!t. I'm even more confused now. I just don't want to connect a wrong wire and ehf something up. The white wire seems like the correct one. Would you mind taking a peek at the pic from the AEM install manual? I've copy/pasted the sections of interest:

View attachment 183031

I'll check when I get home, I'm pretty sure its the blue.

 

[Sport23]

Based on the diagram you loaded I would use the 0-5V analog (white) wire. I haven't used an AEM wideband with the SSAFC but the SSAFC is looking for an analog input. Don't forget to use the calculator in the R4 software to make sure the calibration is correct on your logs.

 

[Silverspeed2015]

you use the white wire from the aem wideband and connect it to the orange/black wire (input A) of the ssafc. you can use any of the wires from the afc but the orange/black is just the input A, the other colors are input B,C, and D

 

[HKPRO5]

What settings do I need to change in the R4 Program. I tried 0-5 but they look off compared to the wideband.

 

[Sport23]

SS Aux input setup

Use SSAFC's built in calculator. Just input the Min voltage, AFR @ Min voltage, Max voltage and AFR @ Max voltage from your WB's manual and hit calculate. Name the Input and you're done.

 

[SCMP3]

good info in this thread. i need to do this when i get my new wideband sensor..

 

[pomidor]

I installed the SSAFC yesterday. For the vacuum, I tapped the long vacuum line that runs to the MAP sensor (mounted on pass anger-side strut tower). I T'ed off near the sensor.

I'm wondering, should I have done that?

It seemed like the easiest way to get vacuum feed to the SSAFC, but I noticed that that vacuum line runs form the bottom of the intake manifold as opposed all the other vacuum lines that run off the top of it.

 

[SCMP3]

idk if thats such a good place...i have a vac distribution block so i had an open port on the top of the intake manifold that i used.

 

[pomidor]

idk if thats such a good place...i have a vac distribution block so i had an open port on the top of the intake manifold that i used.

After spending a few hours fiddling around the the SSAFC install, I just wanted to get it over with. Getting the vacuum line installed where I did, worked for now, and was easy. I'm more than willing to move it, for now. Then, the Vacuum Block sounds like a better choice in the long run. Now, this distribution block is supposed to tap into the brake booster line, but that line is of larger diameter than the openings on the:

Http://protegegarage.com/659-product-659.html

(from KrayzieFox's post # 6)

I'd need fat (brake booster line) T to a 3/8 one, wouldn't I?

 

[nicholsspeed]

you use the blue wire, i just got mine set up as well.

for the setting in the calc.
min voltage 0
min reading 10
max voltage 5
max reading 18.9



it will always be a little off from the guage, and the voltage has a longway to go befor it hits your screen

 

[pomidor]

you use the blue wire, i just got mine set up as well.
...

Is your Wideband an AEM one?

 

[nicholsspeed]

Is your Wideband an AEM one?

correct.

 

[FLIPOTTAWA]

K soo im doing this except with a Innovate Wideband. Im a little confused as to the following Vaccum lines and where to connect them. I have run the SS AFC vaccum line to the vacuum block that is "tapped of the brake booster. Now here are the questions

Can i run my boost gauge line to the Vacuum Block?

Im running a greddy type s BOV. Which line do i run to the Block? or do i? Theres 2 ports that run off the top of the BOV.

Any help would be appreicated.

Thanks guys

 

[HKPRO5]

two ports on your type S?

You can tap off the line going to the SSAFC for the boost gauge. That way you only have one line going into the cabin im sure we talked about this... =)

Also the Greddy if it does have two ports you can get a Y fitting and send it to one source to the vac block.

=)

 

[FLIPOTTAWA]

theres two nipples on the type s.... one on the top piece near the nut and then one on the housing part of it.