spacemonkey
Member
- :
- Mazdaslow
open wheel base car > all
why go for a caterham when you can have a ariel atom 2
why go for a caterham when you can have a ariel atom 2
Sr20det-rx-7
- Thread starter DragonEye
- Start date
spacemonkey said:open wheel base car > all
why go for a caterham when you can have a ariel atom 2
I was thinking that too but there is a caterham based car that owns all, it has the 1.8T from a VW in it and they tested it (the maker drove it) on Nrembrg, and he beat the time of the porsche cerarra GT (which was specifically designed for that course) by over 12 seconds on its first time arround.... so that kind of...um yea lol..
honestly though i was still looking at making my own car literally. could be a wise investment and all too.... ya never know...
sr20det < 13bt
You can pump SO MUCH power out of a turbo rotary its not even funny. A bnr stage 3 with a STOCK PORT 13bt has been dyno'd at 345rwhp@ or below 15psi on a properly modded engine (i.e. fuel, ignition control). Image an extended streetport, bnr stg3; you'll have 400rwhp without a doubt. When tuned correctly a 400hp rotary can be reliable as any protege
you just have to have all the neccesary mods to go with the turbo and portjob.
You can pump SO MUCH power out of a turbo rotary its not even funny. A bnr stage 3 with a STOCK PORT 13bt has been dyno'd at 345rwhp@ or below 15psi on a properly modded engine (i.e. fuel, ignition control). Image an extended streetport, bnr stg3; you'll have 400rwhp without a doubt. When tuned correctly a 400hp rotary can be reliable as any protege
you just have to have all the neccesary mods to go with the turbo and portjob.Boston5761
Member
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- 03' Familia
MSP#735 said:
haha...rice and furious movies is what comes to mine!
I am just wondering wth you would put an sr20 into a 3rd gen 7... I mean you are dumping roughly 15k dollars into a good condition FD. if you wanna do something as stupid as putting a boinger into an RX-7 do it to an FC... I mean they are older, and cheaper. a 3rd gen is just just pure sex on wheels, and to put a boinger in it... thats just sacriledge.
imho you buy an RX-7 any gen, for the main reason of it being a rotary engined car... because it is a unique engine, that very few other cars have. boingers are everywhere.
imho you buy an RX-7 any gen, for the main reason of it being a rotary engined car... because it is a unique engine, that very few other cars have. boingers are everywhere.
i have helped friends build 3rd gens and 2nd gens (with 13b-rew motors) to the level of 500whp, on single turbo. They put about 10k miles a year on the car, and about 150 miles a year at the drag strip. Other than oil changes, and putting gas in it...NO problems.
You have to tune it correctly. A well built rotary (full build inside-out) will give you a motor that needs to be torn down and rebuilt about every 80k miles. Its still running, and running well when it needs to be rebuilt...but not as good as when it was fresh. So a nice rebuild will bring the power (and pleasure) back. The seals inside and the housings get carbon build up over time, eventualy it will cause problems and the car WONT run, but I have seen some stock twin rx7s go over 120k miles between rebuilds.
The stock FD does have a few cooling issues but nothing major (all fixed in later years) but we stoped getting the car in the US before that. If you get a stock FD you will (should) do a few mods to it to make it daily driver reliable, if you do the work yourself your looking at maby 2k in parts if you get good stuff, even less if you get regular parts.
You can push 380ish HP on stock twins run non-sequential...and it will feel really good.
The RX7 is a great drift/track car, while it doesnt have the off the line tq, the turbo-rotary is a pretty tq motor....the nature of the rotary power band gives it a nice flat tq curve. You have good power in the midrange and upper range of the RPM.
When drifitng of running WOT on the track at HIGH rpm, there are only 3 moving parts to the motor, its very easy for the motor to sping those high rpms all day, with few problems.
The reason so many people blow the rx7's up is because of bad tuning or stupid modding. Lots of owners get the car, put turbo intakes on, IC, downpipe, cat del, cat back, ect ect....basic bolts ons, the kind of stuff the evo loves....the problem is its a MAP sensor car, and the bolt ons and the car cant/wont tune the fuel and air accordingly, you get knock and blow the motor.
The rotary will fail if its overheated.....like any motor, keep in mind with the rotary 1 side of the engine is ALWAYS under fire....there is no cooling stoke.
The only real downside to the rotary is that it will fail quickly if its knocking/pinging...so will a piston engine, but you might get some knock and get off the gas and its 'ok'...with the rotary it wont last long with knock....but thats something that can be fixed with a good tune.
You have to tune it correctly. A well built rotary (full build inside-out) will give you a motor that needs to be torn down and rebuilt about every 80k miles. Its still running, and running well when it needs to be rebuilt...but not as good as when it was fresh. So a nice rebuild will bring the power (and pleasure) back. The seals inside and the housings get carbon build up over time, eventualy it will cause problems and the car WONT run, but I have seen some stock twin rx7s go over 120k miles between rebuilds.
The stock FD does have a few cooling issues but nothing major (all fixed in later years) but we stoped getting the car in the US before that. If you get a stock FD you will (should) do a few mods to it to make it daily driver reliable, if you do the work yourself your looking at maby 2k in parts if you get good stuff, even less if you get regular parts.
You can push 380ish HP on stock twins run non-sequential...and it will feel really good.
The RX7 is a great drift/track car, while it doesnt have the off the line tq, the turbo-rotary is a pretty tq motor....the nature of the rotary power band gives it a nice flat tq curve. You have good power in the midrange and upper range of the RPM.
When drifitng of running WOT on the track at HIGH rpm, there are only 3 moving parts to the motor, its very easy for the motor to sping those high rpms all day, with few problems.
The reason so many people blow the rx7's up is because of bad tuning or stupid modding. Lots of owners get the car, put turbo intakes on, IC, downpipe, cat del, cat back, ect ect....basic bolts ons, the kind of stuff the evo loves....the problem is its a MAP sensor car, and the bolt ons and the car cant/wont tune the fuel and air accordingly, you get knock and blow the motor.
The rotary will fail if its overheated.....like any motor, keep in mind with the rotary 1 side of the engine is ALWAYS under fire....there is no cooling stoke.
The only real downside to the rotary is that it will fail quickly if its knocking/pinging...so will a piston engine, but you might get some knock and get off the gas and its 'ok'...with the rotary it wont last long with knock....but thats something that can be fixed with a good tune.
