Sr20det-rx-7

[DragonEye]

I have been intrested in RX-7's for the longest time now but i dont want to have to deal with the motor..

I have a Nissan 240SX right now with the SR20DET swap, its getting borring and i dont like the way the car manuvers.... its just tooo long. I like the wider stance on the RX-7, and all...

What should i look out for when shopping arround for an RX-7? (latest gen)

like are there any parts on them that are prone to breaking or anything? (other than the motors)

 

[wicked]

when you go for a seven,the non-turbo engine will outlast the turbo engine by far,but you will be a lot happier boosted,so it's a toss up.

my recamendation is go for a second genaration turboII,preferably the 10th anniversery edition.


look for lower miles,and everything in the best condition you can find.
as far as the engine goes,I would actually recamend you getting one with a blown engine,then rebuild it,it cost about $1300 to $1700 to get one done to handle abuse,and good boost.

to bad you don't live in cali,I could hook you with a awsome car,and a rebuilt motor that will not break under high revving drift abuse.

 

[jsgolfer]

from what ive heard, and im not a rotary guy at all, high boost rotarys that are done right like to explode. i guess that true for any engine but ive heard its especially bad on rotarys. also, i think there is an over heating issue with rotary motors. either way, they are cool as hell, sound great, great HP/liter and RX7s are some of the best looking Japanese cars ever! good luck

 

[wicked]

yeah,they do like to blow around the 400 HP range.

a good friend of mine builds rx-7s,and only rx-7s,he drifts then,and owns on average 3-6 at a time.anyway,he picked up a 240sx,and has never been hapier drifting a stock car,he isn't refering to the power,or engine,but the wayt the car feels and it's ease if getting sideways.
he is used to RX-7,and yeah there engine is absolutly the best for drifting,the body isn't,it wants to go straight.


so in other words,you do this swap,and you will be doing the worst thing you can to the car,the 240 is a better suspention design,and the RX-7 is a better engine design.

so if you wanted to make a goo drifter,you may want to reverse your origanl thought,try putting a 13B in a 240?

or go for the gusto,and stick a 20B in it.

 

[Roywhitep5]

an fd in formula d has an sr20det

 

[TampaSport20]

so if you wanted to make a good drifter,you may want to reverse your origanl thought,try putting a 13B in a 240?

Umm don't drift cars need lots of low end torque to get the wheels spinning fast ???

13b's are about as torquey as honda engine's.....

SR20DET would be a WAY better engine for drift, and it is more reliable than a rotary....It would throw off weight distribution a little though....

 

[wicked]

Umm don't drift cars need lots of low end torque to get the wheels spinning fast ???

13b's are about as torquey as honda engine's.....

SR20DET would be a WAY better engine for drift, and it is more reliable than a rotary....It would throw off weight distribution a little though....

the reasons the 13B works so well for drifting is that it is so light it is the only motor you can use to keep the front end light.(an sr20 block alone is 130LBS)
and the highrev capabilaties of the rotory.


if your running the correct setup,there should be NO issue with breaking tires loose with a rotory.

 

[CRZbrussian]

an fd in formula d has an sr20det

giggle giggle

 

[Boston5761]

an fd in formula d has an sr20det

off topic: but can you pm a still shot of your car and what spring set-up are you running?

 

[Signal 2]

Wow. I don't really know where to start addressing all the mis-information in this one relatively short thread. (hand)

 

[DragonEye]

I was thinking the SR20det mostly for reliability.... I am very firmiliar with the motor and all too so that helps.

Yes, the 240 is very easy to get sideways.... In all honesty I am working on a great road course track car. and the RX7 is better for that, and the SR20DET has the combination of high revving, and turbo design along with great reliability....

 

[DragonEye]

Wow. I don't really know where to start addressing all the mis-information in this one relatively short thread. (hand)

then help a brotha out!(glare)

 

[Signal 2]

then help a brotha out!(glare)

Don't know anything about the NISSAN motor but suspect it's overall weight is more that the 13b REW (~240 lbs short block). And the dimensions of the NISSAN engine may prohibit it from sitting as far back behind the front axle. The weight and placement would likely upset handling and probably give you serious bump steer too.
Basically, IMHO, changing btwn these particular engines (and probably requiring alot of other changes in the chassis and drivetrain) doesn't sound very practical for the gains to be made.
Not a fan of drifting so I don't know anything about it. But at least for any other type of competition the assertion that the 240 has a better suspension is.....IMO...wrong. ALL else being equal, there is no way a 240 will handle or stay with an FD. And yes, I've driven both, though not in competition. And no, it's NOT a critcism of the 240.
I'm not a guru, but if you want answers for questions about the FD, then don't pay any attention to people who don't own one and never have. It's just such a different car. To me it's like a guy who knows Harley's telling you about a NINJA sport bike. Other than both having two wheels, there aren't alot of similarities and the advice you get is probably wrong.

 

[spacemonkey]

Whats wrong with the motor. you just been lied to.

Tear it out put aviation seals in and dont try to push 500 hp out of a 1.3L. Rotary are plenty reliable with around 300-400 hp. they blow when they arent tuned right and when people try to push 450-500 out of it. you try pushing 500 hp from a 1.3L engine and we'll see how sucessful it goes...you only have so much combustion.

Remember a rotary engine is different from a piston engine. Cooling is very important. Focus on cooling and you will have a reliable car. its all in the tune. Do not be stupid. in reality I seen peopel blow eclispe motor and supra motors all the time. Its all in the tune. people have redline these engines for 10 minutes and still can blow them. and remember that mazda won the lemans with a rotary engine.

now if you are looking for ultimate reliability at 500-600-700 hp try a 3 rotor 20B. 20B will run 300 all dayu without a sweat.

as for the SR20...pain in the ass. not worth it...you'll do better with a LS1. #1 exhaust is on the wrong side.

now we must talk about the reason for a RX7. YOu want the engine as far back behind the axle for the perfect layout. 50/50 balance and RWD. Remember in racing you want the mass of your car as close to the center and to the ground as possible. thus why ferrari and true exotics are Mid-engine...its also expensive. in F1 they sit in front of the engine. this causes low yawn intertia and till turn into corners way better. Preventing from tail end affect or understeer. basically you want to ride on the engine for handling purposes. It gives you a brilliant respoinse. Ideally you would want a bit more weight in the back...but that can cause over steer when breaking. 50/50 is usually the best balance for a sports car.

look at the new corvette.. engineers tried so hard to make that car 50/50...and they made it 51/49 by mounting the tranny back. now it has better tracktion on acceleration and better handling characteristics.

 

[DragonEye]

good info goes here from last post

I agree. but from what i have learned from the RX versions... they need rebuilding about every 70K no matter what or how they are tuned...

as far as tunning goes, you are totally correct. my friend was working on his 1.8T VW and is getting some impressive numbers out of it...

I would love nothing more than to have a very reliable RX-7 tuned to about 350HP. there is a shop close to me that specializes in them so its not like i would have to worry about where to go or something...

I'm going to research the Rotary motor's a bit more and see what else i can learn...who knows i might just stick with rotarys from now on...

 

[Fear]

wtf? since when did you get an SR20? and you want a reliable rotary making 350whp?


loller. build the SR. call me if you need to.

 

[spacemonkey]

this guy makes has a reliable RX7...he raced it all season, even at seabring all day, without anything going wrong.

lol...notice his number.

 

[DragonEye]

wtf? since when did you get an SR20? and you want a reliable rotary making 350whp?


loller. build the SR. call me if you need to.

I got it when i got the car, I have some work done on the internals (port polish, motor rebuild, reshaped pistons)

mods currently on the car are FMIC, 300ZX brakes, full 3" custom turboback, BOV, Intake, 225 Fuel Pump, and MBC set to 15PSI on stock turbo...

its too torque happy on the low end... so i want to get a bigger turbo for it to smooth that out and make it a bit more high end.

I also need a new front end for the car so i have been working on getting silvia parts together for it. i have the tripple projectors for it already. I just need bumper, hood, and front panels...

I want to do a 5 lug conversion to it also

 

[spacemonkey]

oh one more suggestion.

If you want to make 300-500 hp and be reliable...follow the people who know how to tune them the best. Racing beat has suggested upgrades for hp output. And I would look into pinapple racing...just people who know what it takes to make a 13B run well and good.

350 is something easily attainable on stock bolt on off the shelf components. When you get into the 500 hp range they recommend extreme porting, light weight rotors, upgraded oil jets and etc.

 

[Fear]

I got it when i got the car, I have some work done on the internals (port polish, motor rebuild, reshaped pistons)

mods currently on the car are FMIC, 300ZX brakes, full 3" custom turboback, BOV, Intake, 225 Fuel Pump, and MBC set to 15PSI on stock turbo...

its too torque happy on the low end... so i want to get a bigger turbo for it to smooth that out and make it a bit more high end.

I also need a new front end for the car so i have been working on getting silvia parts together for it. i have the tripple projectors for it already. I just need bumper, hood, and front panels...

I want to do a 5 lug conversion to it also

Z32 brakes will not bolt to the 4-lug non-se 240 hubs.