Smart Mods?

[joelgas]

Hey guys,

I have owned my MS3 for a year now. So for I have installed the MS Catback and MSCAI. Looking to do a couple more upgrades and wanted to hear some feedback on what the smarts Mods would be going forward.

Considering:

-Motor Mount
-MS Springs
-Downpipe

Trying to minimize any impacts to my warranty. Any feedback appreciated thanks!

 

[Texas Toast]

You've had it for a year and never put in a motor mount? I did that in my first couple weeks of owning the damn car haha.

Anyways, I say motor mount. Street unit makes a good one and its pretty cheap compared to your other mods and really helps with the torque steer. You can't go wrong with it.

 

[joelgas]

Texas....that was the direction I was leaning towards too. Even if I do some other power mods, I am going to need an upgraded mount eventually. I will check into the Street Unit mount. Are these pretty straight forward to install? Thanks!

 

[Texas Toast]

The hardest part of the install is jacking your car up. Its probably the easiest mod you can do beside hanging an air freshener from your rear view.

 

[Remspeed3]

I'd recommend a Hypertech Max Energy Sport Programmer for alittle more bump in power.

 

[BillTheCat]

Hey guys,

I have owned my MS3 for a year now. So for I have installed the MS Catback and MSCAI. Looking to do a couple more upgrades and wanted to hear some feedback on what the smarts Mods would be going forward.

Considering:

-Motor Mount
-MS Springs
-Downpipe

Trying to minimize any impacts to my warranty. Any feedback appreciated thanks!

From your list, you obviously are willing to take some risk with warranty, because there is no upgraded motor mount or downpipe from Mazda. I wouldn't worry much about the motor mount, as it is unlikely to be noticed, as well as unlikely to be abstractedly connected by your dealer or Mazda USA to any warranty issues. But the downpipe- if you ever do get the smoking turbo, they will likely point to that & deny you.

As for springs, I would explore all options, suspension-wise. You're not too likely to encounter a warranty issue that can be blamed on aftermarket springs, struts, etc. But there is naturally some risk. I just think it's worth considering non-Mazda upgrades, since you often get more bang for your buck in the aftermarket arena. Now, deciding which aftermarket suspension set-up to consider- that's a whole separate conversation.

You might also consider checking your boost levels. When I bought my '09 Sport, it was only holding about 12 psi (brand new off the Mazda dealer's lot). Slipped in a black Forge bypass valve (chosen partially for stealth factor- hard to notice), and immediately started getting the proper 15-16psi.

And, of course, a new set of wheels can serve as both cosmetic & functional upgrades as well. Most OEM wheels are pig heavy, and the MS3 wheels are no exception. Find a set of wheels that suit your tastes and reduce your unsprung weight, and you get power to the ground faster.

Oh, and a CHEAP & warranty-safe upgrade is a set of shifter bushings from TWM. They only take 20-30 minutes to install with basic tools, and they do help make the shifter feel far more accurate. (Also a great compliment to the motor mount upgrade you are considering)

 

[joelgas]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I am willing to take some risks, but like you Bill, try to keep them as stealth as possible. I have done some research and think that I will be purchasing the TRZ MM for my next mod.

The downpipe seems to be too much of a risk for my liking. Dont want to get into any of the smoking issues that I hear about.

Anyone have a good boost gauge recommendation that fits the car well?

 

[Kyrosfactor]

You could always go with the MSD DashHawk, this was one of my first purchases, just plug into your ECU and your good to go. Right now I monitor my RPM, Speed, Intake Temp and Boost all on one screen. Hit me up if you have any questions, Ive done quite a bit of research as far as getting good quality stuff for less $$. Research is key, seems like your on a good track!

 

[joelgas]

You could always go with the MSD DashHawk, this was one of my first purchases, just plug into your ECU and your good to go. Right now I monitor my RPM, Speed, Intake Temp and Boost all on one screen. Hit me up if you have any questions, Ive done quite a bit of research as far as getting good quality stuff for less $$. Research is key, seems like your on a good track!

Another good idea on the DashHawk, thanks Kryos. I just ordered the cp-e 75 MM. After doing some further reading, it seems that more ppl experience increased vibs with the TRZ vs the cp-e. Hopefully that was a good decision.

 

[BillTheCat]

I'll second the Dashhawk recommendation. Together with the DH mount from CP-E, to get the DH up out of the way. Get the boost gauge & add all the extra features.

PS- I have the TRZ Dogbone MM, and it blends in quite nicely. It's certainly not a dead ringer for the stock MM, but it's not going to scream for attention.

 

[boosted1]

Anyone have a good boost gauge recommendation that fits the car well?

ProSport or AutoMeter Cobalt mechanical boost gauge. You may want to mount the the gauge in a vent pod, for a cleaner look.

 

[joelgas]

ProSport or AutoMeter Cobalt mechanical boost gauge. You may want to mount the the gauge in a vent pod, for a cleaner look.

Those ProSport gauges look good. I'm wondering about the vent pod. I use that vent a lot here in AZ when its 120 degrees and you need some cold air on your face. The vent pod does not allow you to direct the airflow after installed correct?

 

[Kain]

Those ProSport gauges look good. I'm wondering about the vent pod. I use that vent a lot here in AZ when its 120 degrees and you need some cold air on your face. The vent pod does not allow you to direct the airflow after installed correct?

No.

 

[FrequentFlyer]

If you get a DH, don't bother with boost gauge. I very rarely look at my boost gauge anymore. Just my opinion. You also might consider a new TMIC being in Phoenix with high boost air temps. It won't be as good as a FMIC, but very easy to install/uninstall.

I wouldn't touch the suspension other than a rear sway bar until you decide to replace the struts/shocks. I personally think the car is low enough from factory, so I replaced my stock dampers with Bilstein Sports and kept the stock springs with a Cobb rear sway bar. This is the way the car should have handled from factory. I don't think I'll get aftermarket springs for this car. NJ roads suck and I just don't need a rough ride (already bent two wheels from potholes in this damn state).

Once you start tearing up the exhaust, you're making life difficult for yourself if you have a warranty issue involving the engine. If anything, I'd get a test pipe if you don't want to bother with the downpipe. Easily installed and removed. For about $150, you can get some decent gains from a test pipe and the car will still pass emissions.

 

[08cosmic3]

Rear motor mount - some are too strong and will cause alot of vibs. research
Test pipe - very easy install/uninstall 5-10 hp. ebay
Forge BPV - stock valve is prone to leaking. forum salesa boards

 

[joelgas]

Guys, great feedback. I really appreciate all of the responses. There are so many options it's hard sometimes to know where to begin, but this has been great help for me.

Question: If I install a testpipe, should I stop taking it to the dealer for oil changes or is something that the will not easily recognize?

So for, this is what I am thinking....

- Have ordered the cp-e mm.
- Install TWM bushings
- Check into testpipe
- Save more dough for a DH

Then I can take a look at where the car is at from that point and decide where to go from there