Skyactiv Remote Turbo Build

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Aluminum Tube - Round (6061-T6) 2-1/2" x .065" wall x 72”
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Thanks. I ended up buying about 6ft of stainless steel tubing 2: OD local for $29. I can weld SS I can't weld aluminum. Also the SS will be more durable for the same thickness. I'm gonna jack the car up tomorrow and finalize how I'm going to run the mian pipe. I'm hoping the smaller 2" ID will allow me to get it up against the AWD tunnel clear of the yoke. If not it will run near the exhaust pipe but a little higher. Also consdiergin the distance, I don't want wide tubing which may contribute to lag. I'll use aluminum stuff in the engine bay.
 
I made some progress today. Well kinda. While price shopping around on ebay, I accidentally ordered an oil sandwich sender (no oil flow through directly). I could use it, but it would mean running unfiltered oil to the turbo which I don't want to do. Got a glowshift one on order now. Jacked up the car and mocked up my main charge pipe location. I bought a 2" OD 6' SS pipe for $30 local. The SS is cheaper than aluminum and stronger; if something did hit it the SS will hold up better (and I can weld it if I need to). Unfortunately I stripped the bold on my only 2.5" v-band a few days ago, so extra are on order. I couldn't connect the turbo for mock up because of that. I decided to mount the charge pipe next to the exhaust pipe, with a small 45 degree "u" to clear the rear subframe between the turbo and driveshaft/exhaust section. It will be sitting higher than the exhaust pipe, so that's a bit of protection; not that in 4 years of cx-5 ownership have I ever struck any part of the exhaust. Trying to fit it up in the well near the AWD yoke seemed sketchy, and I want the charge pipe to be as solid as possible so it wasn't ideal. I want silicon connectors, especially underside to be at a minimum. There are a couple of chassis braces that cross the middle of the car; I plan to weld 2 u-clamp style exhaust hangers on them. I will then put some kind of rubber or silicon doo-hicky around the pipe for vibration dampening. I will enter the engine bay on the drivers side, with a 45" bend up into the compartment. I used a 90 deg 2" tube I have to test and it fits through just fine. Most likely I will be routing the oil lines mostly over the underbody panels. I've already ordered a couple of 45 deg SS elbows to weld (see picture of where I will weld). Once I am in the engine bay, I will switch to aluminum 2.5" since it cools quicker. Initiall I will not be running an IC, early testing results will be the determining factor of whether I add one or not.

Turns out that random 90 degree pipe I got to test the welder on will come in handy to clear the middle exhaust hanger.
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How the pipe will roughly sit.
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The pipe will not be in that location. However you can see some of the bracing I will be welding the hanger on. Also you can see the exhaust hanger I'm using the 90+45 to clear. Maybe if I was using 1" od pipe. Anyone with wrong wheel drive will have that entire well to place a charge pipe AND a turbo (especially the long profile type)
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Where the pipe will enter the bay. It will not be sitting side ways like that, but vertical. That's a 90 deg pipe I will be using a 45.
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Where it shows up in the engine bay. I may weld a small flex pipe there with a 3 or 4 in SS pipe on it, just to give a bit of movement.
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Also someone buy this oil sender lol.
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Boys, boys, it's not even important. What's important is this:


I didn't wanna run it for too long because it's a journal bearing and I don't have oil lines on it.

Well done! I'm not going to hide the fact that this project of yours is very interesting. You're a pioneer in the world of hot rodding a CX5. Making your own parts instead of buying them is what hot rodding used to be all about.
 
Dang didn't think about it like that. Now I'm gonna say I'm hot-ridding my cx5 instead of "turboing" it
 
Here is a video that is a perfect example of what true hot rodding is all about. It's a Chrysler K car drag racing a modified $60,000 Toyota supra at New England dragway were a long time ago I used to race. The guy who built the Chrysler K car spent a grand total of $2600 including $500 to purchase that car. He used nothing but junk yard parts to modify this FWD Chrysler K car and transformed it into a 10 second quarter-mile drag race car. He swapped a turbocharged Daytona engine into it and welded several intercoolers together to make one large one. He took a larger turbocharger for a Mitsubishi engine and added it to this Daytona engine. The engine started to overheat so he figured out if he changed the location of the gooseneck for the coolant that it would run cooler. He ripped out the interior and added stiffer springs in the back with slicks on the front for traction. He did all this to prove a point that hot roding is not just about how much money you have to purchase high-performance parts but that true hot roding is more about ingenuity and skill and making do with what you have. It's about having fun and making cars go fast. All these people in the crowd are cheering because they know the history of this vehicle and are amazed that it ran a 10.6 quarter mile time and destroyed the supra off the line.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nJvSRbKhxfY
 
Update. Mocked up my oil feed/drain lines. They fit right into the side underbody. There is also plenty of room to add the in line filter (post turbo, pre pump) and the pump. All I need to buy is the pump. Also welded/rubber cemented exhaust clamps for the charge pipe. Unfortunately the stainless on them was melting while welding so its a mix or welding/rubber cement lol. I also got my first welding burn to day #hotelectrodekeepmaskonwhenintightspaces. One thing I still need to do is make some type of hangers for the turbo so that it can use the stock exhaust hangers. I think I may weld something off the exhaust flange I made for the forwards hangers, and save the rear hangers for the actual exhaust.

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Got the fittings all hooked up, will be attaching a hose to the red fitting.
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The plan
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How the intake pipe will go up intot he bumper (not using that tube)
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How the charge pipe will sit under the car (pipe will be cut at the yellow tape and a 2.5 to 2.0 reduce will be somewhere in between).
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The Ultra racing bar will be staying on; I'm going to use it support the turbo. I may weld a u clamp to some steel straps or somethin
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Hard to see, but off to teh left of the exhaust pipe are two empty clamps in line
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Well ordered the turbowerx oil pump and a pnp harness (which I will spice) for the map sensor. And some stuff to make the exhaust. The pump was the last and most expensive hardware that I needed to run the setup so at least I'll be able to hook everything up and run the charge pipe vta. That will be good for making sure any debris is out the pipe, and the turbo get broken in/any problems noted before something goes down the charge pipe into the engine.
 
I am not very good with electrics. Looking for feedback on where to wire my 12v oil pump. I want it on a source active when the ignition is on. I'm probably going to have it on a switch (I know how to wire a switch) so that I can have acc on without the pump running.
 
I'm not an expert either, but I would probably use a relay, with a fuse in line.
Do you think that, is a good idea to use a switch? What if, you forget to turn it on?
When all this is done and you go for a service at the dealership, I would like to see the mechanics face, when he sees all your work.
 

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