Side Mount Intercooler upgrade from ProtegeGarage + AEM TRU-BOOST control or Unichip

I have an 03 MSP, I bought it used and to my knowledge the only things done to it are Injen CAI, Greddy BOV, APEXi exhaust, Blitz turbo timer, and stereo upgrades. Considering the Unichip and the Side Mount Intercooler upgrade from ProtegeGarage + AEM TRU-BOOST control are essentially the same price, which would be the better set up to get more power/performance/efficiency out of my car?
 
post pics of the engine so we can tell whats been done
 
It is a piggyback like the Unichip, but allows you to tune it yourself instead of having to pay to have it tuned by a Unichip dealer each time you add a mod. The Split Second is an Air/Fuel controller, you are able to set your air/fuel ratios and there are also pre-made maps that you can load onto it that will work for your car as a good base map. You wire it into your ECU harness and connect a vacuum line so that it can see boost, and you're ready to go. A very good necessity to have if you do go with the AFC is a wideband, as you will want to be able to monitor your air/fuel ratios to ensure you are able to tune your car properly.
 
If you are able to find a Version 2 used, they go for around $300. If you buy one new, they are $399.95. For a wideband, I would recommend the AEM UEGO Wideband, which you can find brand new on eBay for around $195 shipped.

And if you by chance may be interested in a FMIC, I offer them, usual price for that would be $400 shipped (with the standard size intercooler, price varies depending on intercooler size). http://www.alteredcustoms.net/MAZDA...ler-Kits/Altered-Customs-FMIC-Kit-MSP-p4.html

sweet idea, what kind of price tag am I looking at though?
 
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I just checked out that site for the link in your previous post. That intercooler a pretty sweet deal, but I'm a college student and I'm not able to spend $1000 at a time. Which would you suggest I get first? The tuner and wideband or the intercooler with the short ram?
 
To start off, there have been quite a few people that have bought my kit and are running with just the kit on stock boost. It's a good place to start, really depends on what you're wanting though.. the FMIC will relocate your MAF and put the BOV on the hot side so you will be able to have it vent to atmosphere without the common stalling issues, and you can still use your intake, just reduce it to the SRI. Or.. the AFC and wideband can come in first and add a stock map to your car and give you a bit more power as well, when you add the FMIC you will have to switch out the map for one that is made for one with the FMIC to get the best use out of the AFC and to give you another starting point on your tune for that.. the FMIC will also help by eliminating the heat soak caused by the SMIC. I would perceive that you'd see a greater change by going with the FMIC then adding the AFC next for a good tune.. either starting point is fine though. If you did go with the FMIC first, I would just keep an eye out in the For Sale section and you might be able to find an AFC or wideband for a good price and save some money that way.
 
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So the FMIC sounds like the best option like you said. I have another question on a different topic also: Is the Greddy BOV supposed to have the turkey gobble sound? or is it not tuned correctly?
 
Is it coming from your BOV, or your intake? Most commonly it comes from your intake and is basically compression surge. Back in the day when I added a cold air intake I gained the turkey, since switching to the FMIC and SRI it's gone.

So the FMIC sounds like the best option like you said. I have another question on a different topic also: Is the Greddy BOV supposed to have the turkey gobble sound? or is it not tuned correctly?
 
greddy sux! i had mine for a while i spent 2 hours tuning mine and it still didnt work properly! i suggest getting a hks when u get a front mount!
 
Most likely I will be purchasing the intercooler after Christmas sometime, I'll see if this solves the problem, if not, then I'll consider HKS

Edit: or any other valve for that matter.
 
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im telling u! u will most likely always have a slight problem with ur greddy, i love my hks, u just cant go wrong with them! if u do get one make sure it is the version 2 non adjustable. save up and get them at the same time, if u really cant afford an authintic hks buy an ebay knockoff. thats not the best way to go but its better than a greddy!
 
Knock offs are a bad idea..i will just save up for anything other than an HKS since you're not the first person to tell me they are bad. Luckily, it came on the car and I didn't pay for it.
 
which greddy bov do u have a type s or rs.... i have a type s and it works go and sounds great
 
Im not sure which kind it is, i bought it already installed, how can I tell the difference?

There is a bigger problem now though. Im pretty sure I just blew my turbo to pieces. If I were to upgrade to a GT28R or RS, would I need to change anything else too, or is it just a drop in replacement for the stock t25?
 
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