milmoejoe said:**I think it might make sense, that if the throw is much shorter, and you do ride your hand on the shifter, that the same amount of pressure in one direction with the SS would be, eh 40-50% more than on the OEM shifter?
Red Baron said:
I said the same thing to the tech when my P5 was in for service and, after a short road test, he had mentioned the warranty could be voided if I did not remove the B&M :bs:
Ryan said:
wrong,
look at several aftermarket short shifters its the part thats after the ball the matter the bottom half you want this longer for a shorter throw, so what you just said makes no sense basically your saying that your idea of a short shifter is the lower it is for the driver adn thats just not the trueth, the driver can hav ea shifter from the console out the windows and still be a short throw shifter becuz of whats after the ball man.
chuyler1 said:The ideal short shift kit has a short upper half and a long lower half...That is the combo that will produce the least amount of travel by your hand. However, lenthening the lower part of the shaft screws with the internals of the transmission...I'm not an expert about that so correct me if I'm wrong.
...here's what happens in basic physics. We'll asume that the lower part of the arm is equal. When the upper length of the rod is shorter, the amount of torqe (produced by your arm) required to move it is greater. Its just like a car jack. Its easy to lift the car when using the far end of the jack, but try pushing down from half way and see how tough it is.
Even though the short shifter requires more torque from you, the force on the other side of the ball is equal to a long shaft except for one thing...MOMENTUM. When you have to push the shifter hard, you are more likely to slam it into its farthest position. Its this slamming that can wear out the forks on your transmission. With a standard shifter you (well at least I) are just guiding the stick into the right position and letting it stop where it wants to almost effortlessly.
If you get used to the travel length of a short shifter it won't be so much of a problem...in fact I doubt it has ever cause a problem that didn't already exist from the driver's shifting style. But if you are acustomed to moving the shifter hard, then a short shifter will aggrevate the situation. A tip is to never grab ahold of it. use the palm of your hand with your fingers relaxed and you'll be ok.
chuyler1 said:I always rev match...a way to know if you're doing it or not is to watch your passengers...do they jerk back and forth when you shift? Do you get a second whiplash from the drive train after you let out the clutch? Driving a standard can be almost as smooth as an automatic during normal driving conditions.
as far as dbl clutching goes, I try it every once in a while but my feet are too big. I have to be either braking fairly hard or not braking at all (in which case I just tap the gas with my foot and let it coast to the right rpms before I let out the clutch.
Usually I just wait till the car slows down to just above the idle speed for a particular gear before letting the clutch out. In heavy traffic this works fine cause I don't need the high rpm power to accelerate, I just want to keep the car rolling at idle.
Red Baron said:
What in the world do you mean? My intervention made sense, it's the tech that was way off... I may not be 100% bilingual my friend, but your written english sucks.
Ryan said:
sense when is this english class so yanno what to all those that dont/cant understand what i said **** YOU! Im not gonna waste away 30 ******* minutes spellchecking this s*** so that you can read in correct mla format ya dickhead
Ryan said:
sense when is this english class so yanno what to all those that dont/cant understand what i said **** YOU! Im not gonna waste away 30 ******* minutes spellchecking this s*** so that you can read in correct mla format ya dickhead
