RX-8 FAQs & New User Guide *Read through this before you post a question!*


HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**

As the title suggests, I would like to put together a Thread dedicated to RX-8 FAQ's. I think the benefit would be two fold. New folks (folks interested in buying, new owners, people doing research) will have a single place to go to for information. It should also serve as a good reference for owners with a little more experience with this great car.

Here is what I need you all to do;

I would like to start by having the more experienced owners post the Q's that they see a lot, include and answer if you know it. Use new posts, and links...whatever. I will edit the thread as I have time. I will add all the FAQ info into the first few posts (which I will save for that). As I add any information I will most likely delete your post in an attempt to keep the thread short (one page or less).

As always, suggestions are welcome. Let’s get some good information out there. Knowledge is power.

*NOTE: Most of this information is for the S1 ('04-'08) RX-8. If anyone has any S2 Specific corrections please let me know and I will add as much as I can.


The inrormation in this thread is due entirely to input from the following users: altspace, brillo, se3pmaniac, justjim, DPE, speeddeamon32.
Thanks for the contrinbutions!
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HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**
So you just bought your first RX8 or you are looking for one to buy. Now what?

So you just bought your first RX8, or you bought a used one, and you have a rotary engine you not familiar with. First off, relax, its really not that different, but here are the little things youll want to do / know to make sure you enjoy the car and it lives a long and happy life.

The following is a brief summary of the many forums collective wisdom after nearly 95,000 threads and 1.7 million posts. It is not totally comprehensive, but will cover most of the major issues for first time rotary RX8 owners. Most of the recall issues only apply to cars built before the 2006 model year, but double check you car just in case.

1. Occasional Aggressive driving is good First off its fun, second, it helps prevent carbon buildup in the engine and intake system. Make sure you rev to at least 7500rpm to make sure all the intake valves open. You dont need to redline every start, but once a day is fun and good for the car.

Oh, and please dont attempt the 7000rpm clutch dump launches the magazines did to get their 0-60mph numbers. This is not the aggressive driving that is mentioned above. Its suicide for your clutch and transmission.

2. Make sure your car has the latest PCM flash and recalls Below are the major recalls that seem to have affected most people. Most are simple and can be done by the dealer in a day.
a) PCM (Powertrain Control Module) Flash The RX8 has a very complex computer driving the engine that has gone through several firmware upgrades. Make sure your on the latest PCM flash from the dealer.
b) In the summer of 2006, a major emissions related recall was conducted on 2004-2006 RX8s related to catalytic converter, and in some cases engine failures. For most people, the recall simply involved a PCM update, some owners had faulty catalytic converters replaced, and some owners had engines replaced. If you own a used vehicle, make sure recall 4206F was performed.
c) Ignition Coils older cars had coils that overheated and would misfire, its easily to tell by flipping a coil over and looking for a burn spot on the back side of the coils. Mazda redesigned the coils in 2006.
d) Starter and Battery the original 04/05 RX8s had a weak starter and battery that could contribute to flooding. Hard starts are the main symptoms, and the dealer can install an upgraded starter battery package to fix the issues.
e) Upgraded Spark plugs along with the starter, the leading spark plugs went through a redesign in the 2005 to help with flooding issues. These improved plugs should be the only leading plugs you buy. (part #NGK RE7C-L)
f) Rough Idle the Engine mounts and mount brackets were redesigned in 2005 to alleviate rough idle issues. Heat from the exhaust manifold can also damage the passenger side engine mount. Check with you dealer about an upgrade if this is an issue.

3. Use only OEM spark plugs The RX8 and RX7 use special unique NGK plugs designed for rotary engines. The plugs should be replaced about every 25,000 miles, which is sooner than most piston engines. Additionally the coils do not last very much longer than the plugs and should be replaced every 30 to 35K miles.

4. Whats the deal with flooding? - Flooding is the term for the engine not starting due to excess fuel into the combustion chamber from a cold start and shutdown. Rotarys, and most other cars, run rich at warm-up and then gradually lean out as the engine warms to operating temp. Starting a cold engine and immediately shutting it down before its warmed up can lead to excess fuel being left in the combustion chamber which makes the engine struggle to light off. The simple solution to not flooding is to properly warm the car up (coolant temp needle to the half way point) before shutting the engine off. Flooding tends to happen when people move their car to wash, repair or service something then immediately shut the engine down. The stronger starter and resigned plugs listed above have helped to alleviate this issue, but just make a practice of warming the car up before shutting it off.

5. Check the oil level every other fillup or twice a month The rotary engine injects oil to lubricate the apex seals in the engine, so it naturally burns oil, especially the harder you drive. Most owners keep a quart of oil in the car at all times and check the oil twice a month.

6. Hitting the track? Toss in a little premix If you going to drive the car especially hard for extended periods of time, it is wise to add 4/6oz of two stroke oil to the fuel for extra seal lubrication. Its not required, but its a good safety measure to protect the engine.

7. 8 YR / 100,000 MI extended warranty - Mazda has extended the warranty coverage on Rotary Engine Core Components on all 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 model year RX-8 vehicles. The warranty coverage for the Rotary Engine Core Components is extended to 8 years (96 months) from the original warranty start date, with a 100,000 mileage limitation. See attachment below for details.

8. Check to be sure that all the TSB's are done before you buy (if possible) - They are available here.Clicky

9. Try to get a compression test done. Most dealerships will not know how to do this properly for rotary engine so you may have to find someone locally who has some degree of rotary specific knowlege. The test is fairly easy and shouldn't cost too much, but the results are worthless unless the test is performed correctly.

10. I have heard that I have to use 5W-20 non-synthetic oil only, is that true? Due to the way the your rotary engine uses oil this is a very touchy subject with a ton of different opinions. For a healthy NA rotary that is being operated in mild temps 5W-20 should be okay, but 5-30 would work as well. Many of the guys/gals that are running FI (Turbo and Supercharged) cars have swithced to heavier (larger numbers 10W-40 or 10W-50) oil due in part to their superior protection when higher temps are reached. As far as the dino vs. syn discussion, either should be fine. The main advantage of synthetic oil is that it will last longer and you can then go longer between oil changes. This is not really an advantage since you really need to change your oil every 3000 mi when you are operating a rotary engine. Bottom line, if you are going to deviate from the oil recomended in the owners manual you should do some researchand come to your own decision before you switch.

Thanks: altspace,


  • rx 8 extended warranty.pdf
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HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**
How can I make more WHP?

Rotary engine can make a lot of power if it's modified in the right way. There are plenty of people getting 350-400 rwhp out of a 1.3 liter rotary. But if it's modified the wrong way, you are running into the risk of blowing engines.

The rotary engine is extra sensitive to detonation which can destroy the whole motor very quickly (think fractions of a second). If you blow one apex seal, your engine is gone!

Mild upgrade such as intake or cat-back exhaust will be ok but any mods that will require you to modify the fuel map and timing map will need extra attention. Anything that will affect the air and exhaust flow drastically needs extra attention. There are mods that you have to do together to run the engine safely. Here are some gerenal suggestions.
Note: you have to do your own research at this point as different products provide drastically diferet results both in terms of gains and safety.

Stage one: intake(K&N drop-in, AEM/Mazdaspeed, RB REVI, Etc) [$50-450]
stage two: Full Exhaust with midpipe to replace the catalytic converter and a Cobb Accessport (ecu tuning highly recommended) [$1200-2000]
stage three: add tubular header (ecu tuning highly recommended) [$500-1200]
stage four: forced induction (turbo or supercharger) need to upgrade the fuel system with larger injectors, high flow fuel pump, ignition system and ecu tuning, possible radiator upgrade (higher power engine produces more heat) [$5000-?????]

Note: I estimated the cost of buying parts new. If you were to be patient and look for items on sale and/or buy used it could be a lot cheaper.

Engine tuning is the most important part as you can see it's a requirement in every stage except the stage one. When it comes to ECU tuning, you have to let people who have extensive knowledge of both rotary engine tuning and knowledge of MAF based tuning to modify the ecu for you. The required a/f ratio and ignition timing is totally different from piston engine.
Note: If the company has no experience on tuning rotary engine, run away immediately.

If you are thinking about going turbo/supercharged you will need to do a ton of research. There are a lot of diferent options out there each with its own pros and cons. THIS CAN NOT BE DONE CHEAPLY OR QUICKLY. I would recomend getting in touch with someone who has already done this upgrade (ideally soemone who did their own work, not someone who contracted a shop to do it).

I did not include any information regarding underdriven/lightweight pulleys for a few reasons. I have not seen an evidance anywhere that they increase power, and I think they are likely cause trouble. They are either lightweight or underdriven. A pulley that identical to OEM but made of a lighter materiel would be okay provided the install was good and the item was designed/manufactured properly, but would not be likely to net very much. On the other hand an underdrive pulley provide less power to both the water pump and the electrical system. Both systems are critical and can be prone to failure in the 8.

Please be smart and mod your car carefully and wisely. Choose the people and companies that have extensive knowledge on rotary engine.

Good luck modifying your rx8 and happy rotoring!

Thanks: se3pmaniac
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HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**
Suspension FAQ's/INFO

1. How can I get my car to handle better? This really depends on how much you are willing to spend. Your options range from really cheap (alignment), to mildly expensive (springs/shocks with sways) to really expensive (premium milti-adjustable coilovers).

First things first. Wheels (lightweight) and tires will have more impact than anything else. A good set of lightweight rims with an aggressive set of tires on it will transform the capabilities of your car. Once you have the wheels and tires you may find that you need to address some other areas.

2. I like the ride of my car, but I want less body roll, what can I do? Stiffer sway bars are one way that you can decrease body roll without increasing ride harshness significantly. However, there is no magic answer and anything you do to the suspension will be a compromise of sorts. The suspension of this car was pretty well designed to be a good balance of handling and comfort.

<<<<<--->>>>>> *** FRONT *** *** REAR ***
Company:--- OD Wall % stiffer OD Wall % stiffer
Stock Sport: 27mm 3.40mm 0 % 16mm 2.46mm 0 %
Mazda Speed:* 27.2mm 4mm 13% 17.3mm 2.6mm ?%r
Racing Beat:** 32mm 4.76mm 118% 19mm 3.17mm ? %
Tanabe:*** 30.4mm 5mm 86% 20.4mm 4.2mm ?%
Agency Power: 32mm 3mm 64% +9% ?mm ? mm ?%
Whiteline: 27 mm solid ?% 18 mm solid ?%
H&R: 29mm solid ?% 20mm solid ?%
Eibach: 27mm solid ?% 18mm solid ?%
Speed Source: 32mm 3mm ?% NA
Cusco: 28 mm ?mm ?% 18 mm ?mm ?%
Progress Tech 32mm 6.35mm 3 way ?%** 19mm ?mm 2 way ?%**

* stock bushings will work
** bigger bushings included
*** bigger bushings required

3. Now that my 8 is handling a little better (see Q 1) I want to drop my 8 a bit, what are my options? Here is a list of some of the aftermarket springs that are available. All numbers taken either from the manufacturer, or from other posts on this or other forums. Some we can verify, and a few we can't. Just keep that in mind. Additionally, the amount of drop you get varies based on the weight of your particular car, fuel load, and other factors.

Stock 'Sport' Suspension RX-8: 156/113 (F/R)
Mazdaspeed: 280/190 - Drop = 0.8"/0.8" ***** Not Confirmed - Actual rates have tested much lower (180/100)
Tein S-Tech: 207/145 - Drop = 1.4"/0.7"
Tein H-Tech: 179/129 - Drop = 1.0"/0.3"
Tanabe GF: 179/146 - Drop = 1.4"/1.2"
Tanabe NF: 162/112 - Drop = 1.4"/1.2"
Racing Beat: 187/136 - Drop = 0.5"/0.5" ***** Not Confirmed
Eibach: 180/130 (progressive) - Drop = 1.2"/0.8" ***** Not Confirmed
H&R: 195/141 (progressive) - Drop = 1.0"/1.0" *****Not Confirmed
Espelir: 210/150 – Drop = 1.2”/1.2” *****Not Confirmed
Swift: 207/90-129 (progressive rears) – Drop 0.8”/0.8”
Vogland: 120/100 – Drop 1”/1”
B&G: 185/142 – Drop 1.3”/0.9”
Progress Technology 205/145 - Drop 1.2"/0.8"***** Not Confirmed

4. Can I run the springs I just bought by themselves, or do I need Shocks? You can only run springs, but you will do two things. You will significantly decrease the life of you stock shocks and you will not get the full benefit that springs + shocks offer. Here is a basic list of aftermarket shocks/struts that are available.

Mazdaspeed - F/R Non-adjustable
Koni yellow – F/R rebound adjustable
Tokico D-Spec F/R rebound and compression simultaneously adjustable
Blisten HD

5. Okay, but now I have another question. Springs + Shocks are almost as expensive as an entry level set of coilovers, should what are the pro’s and cons of going that route? There is a big difference between entry level coilovers and even the mid priced units. Lots of research will be required if you are really looking to improve the performance at the track.

The main feature of entry level coilovers is height adjustability. If you are looking for that Slammed look and don’t take you car to the track, then these should be just fine, since they give the same look as their more expensive counterparts.

Entry level [less than $1200]
Tien Basic

For a little more money you can get coilovers that offer some level of reliable adjustability. These will be good for someone who plans on taking hie/her car to the track and wants to be able to “tune” the suspension somewhat.

Mid range [$1200-2000]
Tien Flex

For the more serious and competitive weekend racer there are some options that offer greater levels of precession and adjustability. Getting the maximum out of these take a significant amount of skill and knowledge (ie, more that I have) so I will not try to explain any further.

High end [$2000+]
KW variant 3
Blisten PSS9

6. I already have a set of sways, but what about endlinks. Do I need them? Good question, conventional wisdom seems to be that the answer is no…..unless you have lowered the suspension significantly. In that case, upgraded swaybar endlinks may be a good idea. At least they are not that expensive.

7. What about my Alignment, Isn’t that important too? Absolutely. This is the cheapest, and most underused way that you can affect your cars handling characteristics. It will not completely change your driving experience the way some of the other options discussed here can, but for the cost (should be less than $100) it is hard to beat. Finding the right settings will take some research and experimentation since this will vary based on your driving experience/style. Try to find a shop local to you that has some experience with doing alignments for customers who take their cars to the track. That way they can help you, and they will be more likely to tweak the set up for little to no additional cost.

Hope you enjoyed the information, and understand that this is just the tip of the iceberg. Happy rotoring.

Thanks: DPE, speeddeamon32,
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HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**
Brake system FAQ's/INFO

Brakes general description
The RX8 comes with either of 2 OEM brake systems. All models have ventilated front and rear disc brakes with ABS. The base AT model has 11.9 in. (303 mm) diameter front discs while the AT with sport suspension and all MT have larger 12.7 in. (323 mm) diameter front discs. Both models have the same 11.9 in. (302 mm) diameter ventilated rear discs and floating calipers. The larger front brakes have a different front caliper, master cylinder, and rear proportioning valve than the base AT model. Both models use single piston, cast iron, floating calipers front and rear.

The braking system is designed to stop the wheels of the car. Both the base AT model and the MT braking systems are fully capable of stopping the wheels of the car in excess of 60 mph multiple times in sequence. This is an important point, because the brakes are fully capable of stopping the wheels at speeds likely to be encountered on the street, the limiting factor in how quickly you can stop your car is dependent primarily on your tires and road conditions (i.e. wet or dirt). If you truly want to stop your car in a shorter distance, buy stickier tires. This can be accomplished by buying tires with stickier rubber (generally lower treadwear rating), better construction, or wider footprints (most common). That said there are several areas where the OEM brakes can be modified to fit specific conditions and these are discussed below.

The Anti-lock Braking System is designed to prevent locking up of the wheels during hard or panic braking. A locked-up sliding wheel has a lower coefficient of friction with the road that a rolling wheel, so braking distances are shortened if the wheels can be slowed quickly without locking up. Furthermore, you cant steer a locked-up sliding wheel, so ABS has the added benefit of allowing directional control during panic braking. The ABS system consists of wheel sensors that monitor wheel rotation, a computer that decides when the braking system should be modulated, and a hydraulic pump that actuates the brakes during ABS operation. All of this happens multiple times a second. If you set off the ABS on a wet or sandy road you will feel a vibrating "bbrrrrppp" in the brake pedal.

-Brake fluid-
The RX8 comes with a DOT3 recommended brake fluid like just about every car currently available. DOT3, DOT4, and DOT5.1 brake fluids are glycol ether based hydraulic fluids that by their chemical nature are hydroscopic, meaning they will absorb water. DOT5 is a silicon based brake fluid and is not compatible with the other fluids, once you use it you cannot return to the other fluids and should not be used. Water dissolved in the brake fluid does 2 things, both of them bad. It accelerates rust and corrosion of the internal parts in the master cylinder and caliper pistons. Worse, the boiling point of fresh brake fluid is significantly lowered by small concentrations of dissolved water in the fluid. For this reason, when comparing boiling points of brake fluid for a daily driver, the wet boiling point is probably the most important.

People who regularly stress their brakes due to carrying heavy loads (not usual with an RX8) or braking at high speeds (more common in an RX8) should, at the very least, replace their brake fluid annually with fresh fluid to keep their brake fluid boiling points near the dry point. If you are going to track your car either on an autocross track, or more importantly on a road course, the first modification you should make is to put fresh brake fluid in your RX8. Many people will at this point select a racing brake fluid with a higher wet and dry boiling point such as ATE Super Blue or Motul 600 racing brake fluid among others.
NOTE: The ATE Super Blue also comes in gold which is the same stuff without the dye, useful if you alternate colors so you know when the flushing is done.

For more info on brake fluid see http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml

-Brake Pads-
As mentioned above, the OEM brake pads are fully capable of setting off the ABS at high speeds, even with R-compound tires. They will do this multiple times, however, they wont do it indefinitely. After 5 or 6 panic stops from 60mph they will begin to fade from overheating. Frequent hard braking with OEM pads may lead to pad deposits on the rotor which gives a pulsating pedal. For those who have encountered pad deposits (more on this later) or those who regularly autocross or track their car on road courses, an upgraded performance pad may increase the operating temperature range and prevent pad deposits and pad fade.

Brake pads generally fall in 3 categories OEM, street performance, or track only. If all you ever do is drive to work, hit the interstate, and occasionally goose it at the traffic light, all you need are OEM pads. If you live in a mountainous area and like to drive fast, or you are continually exploring the limits of ABS on the off ramp, or you compete in autocrosses, you may benefit from a street performance brake pad. If you are tracking your car on road courses more than once (beyond the novice category), even a street performance pad may put pad deposits on your rotors and may fade. For experienced drivers on road courses, dedicated track pads will provide the best performance. Why not use track pads on the street, you may ask? Because, 1. They are expensive; 2. Some track pads need to be warmed up before they grab (although some modern formulas work relatively well when cold); 3. They are hard on the rotors; 4. They are very dusty; 5. The pad dust can be corrosive to wheels and body paint; 6. They tend to be noisy as well.

Some popular street performance pads for the RX8 include but are not limited to:
Axxis Ultimates
Hawk HP plus
Brembo Sport
Ferodo DS2500
Carbotech Bobcat
Cobalt GT Sport

Some popular dedicated track pads for the RX8 include but are not limited to:
Hawk HT10, DTC60
Carbotech XP10/XP8
Cobalt XR2/XR5

Track pad manufacturers often recommend using a slightly less aggressive compound in the rear such as Carbotech XP8 or Cobalt XR5.

Performance street pads and track pads generally have higher coefficients of friction (mu) as compared to OEM in addition to higher operating temperature ranges. This may give a better feel to the brake pedal but will not measurably shorten stopping distances. The benefits of performance street and track pads are in resistance to brake fade, which is incurred due to multiple hard stops such as encountered on road courses. The OEM brakes on the RX8 are superb and many people successfully track and race the RX8 with only a fluid and pad upgrade.

-Brake Rotors-
The rotors that come stock on your RX-8 are very capable. Many people misunderstand some basic things associated with brake rotors, what follows should clear up most of those misconceptions.

When to replace you rotors - The only reason to replace the rotors is if they are below the minimum thickness (22mm front 16mm rear) which takes a lot of miles or badly scored (which is unlikely unless you track the car on road courses with racing pads). You will need to remove the rotor to actually measure the thickness accurately with a micrometer. Some shops will insist on selling you new rotors because A. they make money and B. they know the pads are starting on a fresh surface so they don't need to worry about previous pad deposits causing pulsations and taking the time to explain the pad bedding process. Really, when was the last time you had a brake job that came with a discussion of pad bedding, uneven pad deposits, pad thermal ranges, and adherent versus abrasive friction coefficients?

The Myth of Warped Rotors - Many people comment that they need to replace their entire brake setup because their rotors are "warped". While it may be possible (usually in an alternate universe) to warp a rotor it is exceedingly rare. Rotors may wear thin, they may crack, they may rust, but they rarely if ever warp. People think their rotors are warped for several reasons.
1. The pedal pulses and it feels like the rotor is warped.
2. Their mechanic told them its warped.
3. Their machinist told them its warped.
4. Their beer buddy, who knows all, told them its warped.
5. Their dad told them its warped.

The myth is perpetuated for several reasons. It sounds plausible, you can measure it, and the cure for a warped rotor fixes the problem that led to the belief that the rotor was warped, therefore it must have been warped. Not so, what is really happening was alluded to above in the brake pad discussion.

Brake pads rely on 2 types of friction, abrasive friction and adherent friction. Abrasive friction is just what it sounds like. Modern brake pads, particularly performance and track pads, rely heavily on a thing called adherent friction to fully develop their coefficient of friction. Adherent friction is more like the friction of sticky glue to something, a molecular bond that forms and breaks causing friction. Modern brake pads lay down a even layer of pad material on the rotor face during bedding and normal use. This layer of pad material on the rotor sticks to the pad material on the pad and voila increased friction. If the brake temperature exceeds the pads operating range this nice even layer starts to melt and becomes an uneven splotchy layer of material. This now variable thickness of glue stuck to the rotor causes the pulsations in the pedal as the pad follows the uneven pad deposits around the rotor face.

There are basically 2 ways to get rid of pad deposits. One is to machine them off. This is why the machinist and the mechanic (and for that matter, probably your dad and beer buddy) think the rotor is warped. The machinist measures the rotor as being warped when really he is measuring glue stuck to the rotor face. Machining the face of the rotor removes the glue and incorrectly confirms what he thought was the cause. The other way is to rebed the brakes, preferably with new pads of a higher temp range and coefficient of friction. Bedding (or rebedding because it can be repeated) brake pads is the controlled process of laying down an even layer of new pad material. If the new pads have a higher temperature range, you can melt off the old while you are laying on the new. This generally involves 5 or 6 hard braking events from 70 to 20 mph without stopping in rapid succession. Sometimes it may need to be repeated for another 5 events after cooling without stopping. I once had pad deposits after a track event on performance street pads that were so bad I stopped the car twice on the highway to check for broken suspension and brake parts. I cured the pad deposits with a new set of pads and a double bedding procedure.

Rotors are made of cast iron for a reason. It is tough stuff and is the best alloy in terms of heat resistance, ductility, strength, and hardness. All rotors, even the inexpensive ones, are made of similar cast iron alloys as the expensive racing rotors with the exception of carbon rotors found only on the highest end racing cars such as Formula 1 and a few others.

For further information on this subject see Carroll Smith

Slotted and drilled rotors - Many people while trying to replace what they think are warped rotors, or while trying to make their car stop better, inquire about which is better, drilled or slotted rotors. The answer is neither. Neither holes nor slots will stop your car any quicker. Once you've gotten past green fade in the first heat cycle of new pads described above, outgassing is no longer a significant issue and holes and slots won't stop you any better. Holes and slot don't cool the rotors any better either. Furthermore, drilled rotors are generally to be avoided as the holes act as stress risers increasing the likelihood of cracking. Slots won't hurt anything but your wallet but they won't help anything either except looks. If all you want is bling get the slots.

One structural aspect that will improve a rotors heat dissipation is curved internal vanes. The OEM rotor and most aftermarket rotors are straight vaned rotors. Curved vanes pump more air like a water pump. Another structural aspect that improves rotor design is 2-piece floating hat rotors. These rotors have a separate center hat, usually of aluminum alloy, that bolts to a cast iron ventilated rotor ring. These rotors have superior ventilation and the aluminum hat wicks away some of the heat, and they have less unsprung and rotational weight. Many aftermarket Big Brake Kits come with 2-piece floating hat rotors. Most competitive racing cars have 2-piece floating hat ventilated rotors.

-Big Brake Kits-
Many people, in an effort to improve their cars decide to purchase an aftermarket brake system commonly referred to as a Big Brake Kit or BBK. As the term suggests the brakes are bigger than OEM. The implication is that bigger is better. Like much in life it is more complex than that. As mentioned above, the OEM brakes of both the AT model and the MT are fully capable of setting off the ABS under multiple panic stops. So if a brake system is already capable of locking up the wheel (even under racing conditions) how will a bigger braking system stop the car any shorter. The short answer is it wont. BBKs dont stop the car shorter or quicker. The advantage of a BBK is in the B as in bigger. A bigger rotor dissipates heat faster and better. So a well designed BBK will dump heat better. This is only an advantage if your brakes are overheating. Many of us race and track successfully without fade with OEM brakes with just better pads. If you are tracking the car with dedicated track pads and you are operating at the upper limit of your pads operating range you may benefit from a BBK. Better BBKs also utilize a 2-piece rotor which also has less unsprung and rotational weight.

Some people want a BBK for looks which is OK but buyer beware. Braking systems are all about balance, balance between the front and the rear. If a BBK is not well designed, and is just something available off the shelf that happens to fit, the front to rear brake bias or balance will be upset and the stopping distance with your very cool looking BBK will be longer, not shorter than your girlfriend with the stock OEM AT model on cheap tires.

The RX8 has a nearly 50/50 front/rear weight bias. Despite the RX8s excellent balance, the front brakes do more of the work than the rears due to weight shift under deceleration. Mazda engineers spent a lot of time matching piston diameters of the front and rear calipers and the master cylinder to get a balanced front/rear brake bias. Additionally, most cars including the RX8, have a proportioning valve between the front and rear which limits or modifies the maximum hydraulic pressure to the rear under heavy braking. This is necessary because of the forward weight shift under heavy braking. The proportioning valve prevents the rear wheels from prematurely activating the ABS and disrupting maximum braking efficiency.

Premature activation of the front or rear ABS is an important point to consider when making brake system modifications, such as adding a BBK. If the front caliper in the BBK you select is too big the front will activate the ABS prematurely. Since the front does most of the work you just turned off most of your brakes. If the front caliper is too small, it will allow the rear to activate prematurely. In either case once one end of the ABS goes off, further pedal pressure won't help and your stopping distances will increase instead of decrease. Bigger is not better if it upsets the balance of the braking system.

-Brake Fade-
There are 3 types of brake fade commonly encountered, and they renge from scary to terifying.

Green fade. This type of fade only happens with brand new unbedded pads. Pad compounds with organic binders will offgass as the binders volatilize when they are heated for the first time. These gasses produce a thin boundary layer on the pad surface which prevents or interferes with the proper friction of the pad on the rotor. Once the pads have been thoroughly heated the gasses are no longer produced and the problem goes away. As a result, your first braking application on brand new pads should not be a panic stop from 90 mph. All brake pads should be bedded in, more on that later.

Pad fade - Every pad compound, street or track has a range of operating temperature. Above that range the coefficient of friction will drop and the ability of the pad to stop the rotor will diminish. Multiple stops from high speed such as on a road course, or a fast descent down a twisty mountain road can over heat the brakes and exceed the operating range of the pads and the brakes will start to fade. The pedal will still feel hard and firm but the car doesnt slow down like it used to. The cure is let the brakes cool off, and if the pads havent been incinerated they will resume working when temperatures cool down.

Fluid fade - This is the MacDaddy of fade and should be avoided (see wet and dry boiling points of brake fluid above). If the brakes get hot enough, the fluid in the caliper can exceed the boiling point of the fluid, especially if the fluid has absorbed water. Hydraulic systems depend on the physical principal of the incompressibility of fluids. When the fluid boils, bubbles of gas enter the hydraulic system, and unlike fluids, gasses are compressible. When you push on the brake pedal, all you are doing is squishing bubbles, not moving pistons. As a result, the brake pedal goes to the floor, the car goes where you dont want it, and small wimpering sounds emanate from the driver as he/she looks for something soft to hit. The cure requires bleeding the brakes as the bubbles will not completely resorb on their own. Most people who track their car bleed their brakes before an event to have dry fluid and sometimes after an event to remove any bubbles.

-Pad Bedding In-
Most companies will include proper bedding technique in the instructions, and they more or less follow a similar procedure. As soon as the brake pads are installed, proceed to do some low speed braking, typically from 40mph to a slow roll to bring the brakes up to normal operating temperatures. Find yourself a place where you can do uninterrupted sequential hard braking events. Do a set of 4 to 5, 70mph to 20mph, hard braking events followed by a 10-15 minute rolling cool down period. All of this is done without coming to a complete stop. Braking should be hard but not hard enough to lock the wheels or set off the ABS. The brakes should be brought up to the upper thermal range of the pads. Bedding in the pads correctly does a few things: 1. Gets rid of green fade caused by outgassing of organic binders in the pad; 2. The primary purpose of bedding pads is to lay down an even layer of pad material on the rotor face to facilitate adherent friction. Everybody should find a place where there is a stretch of road with little or no traffic that they can safely get up to at least 60mph and do the above procedures including a 10 minute cool down period afterwards WITHOUT COMING TO A COMPLETE STOP.

Thanks to: justjim
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HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**
J, K, L, and M Flash Explanation

J-K-L-M do you know your re-flashes?
Mark Gaal PoLaK

Where is the Power?

Rx-8 owners across the country have gawked at the low dyno numbers the Rx-8 is producing. The 8 supposedly makes 238hp at the crank which should translate to about 190-200whp taking into account drivetrain and frictional losses. Actual mustang and dynojet numbers are much less, ranging from 168-180whp (wheel hp). So, where did the power go? Well popular belief is Mazda screwed up, back in May/June of last year when pre-order buyers were expecting their cars, there was a long hold up at port. The cause behind it EPA2 emissions regulations, Mazda had forgotten that the Rx-8 would have to meet newer and more rigid requirements for the 2004 model year, specifically a Catalytic Converter that would have to last 170k miles. So to satisfy the already anxious and complaining pre-order buyers Mazda flashes all the cars waiting at port with a J. Its signified by a JX port campaign sticker under the hoods of the first shipment of Rx-8s to the US.

Problems with J

J is pretty much Mazdas half-ass attempt to meet EPA2 and get buyers their already deleyed cars. The entire J flash is rich meaning, to preserve Cat-life, Mazda used a fuel map that tuned the Air to Fuel Ratio (AFR) pig-rich across the powerband. What this effectively does is pack more fuel in to the combustion chambers then there is air to combust it. This un-burnt fuel then keeps the exhaust temps down, thereby preserving Cat-life. Everything is spiffy for the first few weeks, until a couple of the more enthusiast oriented owners go out and dyno their then 247hp cars. They find the low dyno numbers, post it on sites like Rx8club.com where it is debated. Soon after Mazda issues a revised Horsepower number 238 (which is still a bit optimistic). They offer owners or pre-buyers that bought before this announcement a $500 debit card and free maintenance for the life of the warranty or a buyback of the car at purchase price. Not a bad deal for 9hp, but the reason behind it isnt a calculation error.


K came along after Mazda had a few months to research into what would be the best performance/mileage VS Cat-life flash for the RX-8. K from an engineering standpoint was light-years ahead of J. Mazda leaned out the AFR though some of the powerband, although Mazda was still playing it safe from around 6800rpm to redline where the flash became rich. Again, this had to be done due to the natural high-heat out-put of rotarys. However to Mazdas surprise they began receiving reports of Cats failing, not because of high-heat, instead the un-burnt fuel from running so rich, began accumulating in the cat effectively corroding it. So the engineers at Mazda come up with an idea that is, well a first in the sub $100,000 car market, a little jewel called L


The L Flash was a major recode of the ECU. Obviously Mazda has been putting some serious hours into R&D. Most of the complaints have been centered upon less than smooth around town driving, and poor gas mileage. Fixing these issues is harder than it seems, numerous factors have to be considered. The Air/Fuel mixture has to be lean enough to get good mileage, but rich enough to prevent pinging. It also has to be smooth for general driveability, and still produce the expected power. Juggling all of these issues can be very challenging. Mazdas answer is essentially to pack two maps into one ecu. The L Flash gives one map for gears 1 through 3, and one for gears 4 through 6. Reasoning being, that load, and potential for pinging, are higher in gears 4 through 6 because loads on the engine are higher as speeds increase. So with the previous flashes, the tuning may be right for highway driving, but very rich for the lower gears. So the big difference with L is it tunes based on what gear youre in! Active tuning is accomplished by voltage readings provided by the MAF sensor as well as another variable sensor. It leans or richens the fuel mixture at different points based on gear. For example in 3rd gear the AFR is pretty lean up until about 4,600rpm where it becomes very rich, very fast. Now in 4th gear the AFR is pretty lean until 2,900rpm then it becomes much to rich. Although L is a major improvement, these dyno results show that there is still room for improvement. Hats off to Mazda for releasing a product that delivers significant improvements.


The M Flash is a further evolution of L, trying to improve more on mid-range smoothness, gas mileage, and cold start flooding problems. It seems as though Mazda released the RX-8 with maps that they knew were too rich, and incrementally are re-flashing the car until they find the sweet spot. This isnt too bad of an idea for reliability, unfortunately there are side-effects, or else there would be no need for all these flashes. M further leans out the mixture in the low and mid-range rpm areas for all gears. This will give a bit more power, smoothness, and mileage at those points. Another change in the M flash is that when cranking a cold engine now, the first 3 seconds there is no fuel injected. This was done to combat the complaints of flooding in cold engines. Early reports of those on rx8club.com who have received the M flash substantiate these claims. Almost all have reported noticeable results, especially in the feeling of more mid-range punch and better mileage. Its to early however to know if the flooding problems are resolved, but you cant argue that Mazda is trying. Its a very exciting change from how things were done in the past, where if you wanted a better driving car, you only option was to wait for the next model year. Now all it takes is the ingenuity of some Mazda engineers, and 30 minutes at your dealer.

Thanks: PoLaK
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HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**
Winter/cold weather FAQs/INFO

1. Is it easier to Flood my RX-8 during cold weather? Because of the design of the Renesis it is possible to flood them when moving short distances when the engine is cold. Remember that warming your car up is the best way to avoid this. Instead of just moving the car cold from the garage to the driveway and shutting it off, take a turn around the block. Gives you a few minutes seat time and you will thank yourself later when the car starts.

2. Why does my car experience a Loss of power when it is cold? Talking about warming up the car brings up another topic. High Revs on a cold engine is a bad thing. To help keep your engine safe the RX-8s PCM can and will lower the effective redline until the engine is properly warmed up. So when you feel a loss of power at @ 6000rpm just after you started driving thats the PCM pulling timing to save the engine. Drive casually a little longer.

Update- For 2009 Mazda has added a a "moving redline" to the Tachometer so you can actually see what the limit is and how it raises as the car comes to proper operating temps

3. Whats up with this Frothy Oil Dipstick? When checking your oil you may notice a frothy, milky, yellowy substance on the dipstick. This is condensation and is quite normal. Especially this time of year as the dipstick tube can be very cold, giving the condensation a perfect place to form. If it disturbs you there is a redesigned and insulated dipstick tube available from Mazda.

See attachment below for details

3. Why does my TPMS go off more often in the colder months? The more the temperature drops the less pressure is in your tires. The TPMS light on the dash- looks like this (!)- will light to tell you the tires need to be inflated. Some folks will post to us that the light was on in their dash but they drove to the place with the air filling station and checked their tires only to find the pressures were fine. They surmise then that it must be a sensor/light malfunction.

That is incorrect.

That driving heated up the tires and the air inside thereby increasing the pressures and giving false gauge readings. Check your tires BEFORE driving. Note the amount of air needed for each tire, and then ADD that amount when you get to the place with the air filling station.

And please folks dont pay for air! Remember you can always use that inflation kit in your trunk that came in the car.

4. Can I use my OME tires for winter driving? The OEM RE040 tires are NOT WINTER TIRES. They dont have the tread for snow and they turn into bricks when it gets cold. If you expect to travel much this winter on snowy roads or in consistently below 35F temps your downfall will be the RE040s. Please, please, please get a set of steel wheels with some dedicated snow tires. They will save you allot of hassle and us allot of the rx-8 sucks in the snow threads. Really the rx-8 drives fine. Just remember its a RWD car, which many of you might not be familiar with, and get those snows on!

5. Do I need to do anything to get my Radiator ready for the winter? Fall is a good time to check that your coolant/antifreeze is the right mixture. You can get the appropriate gauge at any automotive store. Make sure you have the right mix for the winter temperatures you will normally face in your area. If you haven't done one on your car and its a couple of years old its also a good time to do a radiator drain and refill.

Remember folks- if you see the Lincoln Memorial start to shine on your dash, thats the low coolant sign. Put a little 50/50 coolant /water mix into the coolant reservoir to top it off.

Important Note - Before adding any coolant you need to determine if your car came filled with FL22 type coolant. To do so look at the coolant cap- If you have FL22 it will be printed there. Most '06 and newer Mazda's come with the FL22-type. If yours is one of them don't use/mix any other type coolant with the FL-22.

6. If you're in Snow prone or Ice prone areas its a good time to check that you have a ice scraper/ brush in your car. Also top off your Washer fluid and keep the extra in your car for those snowy days.

Thanks: altspace, brillo


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HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**
CEL Code listing

DTC No. Condition MIL DC Monitor item* Memory function Page
P0030 Front HO2S heater control circuit problem ON 2 HO2S heater (See DTC P0030 )
P0031 Front HO2S heater control circuit low ON 2 HO2S heater (See DTC P0031 )
P0032 Front HO2S heater control circuit high ON 2 HO2S heater (See DTC P0032)
P0037 Rear HO2S heater control circuit low ON 2 HO2S heater (See DTC P0037 )
P0038 Rear HO2S heater control circuit high ON 2 HO2S heater (See DTC P0038 )
P0076 VDI solenoid valve control circuit low OFF 2 CCM (See DTC P0076 )
P0077 VDI solenoid valve control circuit high OFF 2 CCM (See DTC P0077 )
P0101 MAF sensor circuit range/performance problem ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0101 )
P0102 MAF sensor circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0102 )
P0103 MAF sensor circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0103 )
P0107 BARO sensor circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0107 )
P0108 BARO sensor circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0108 )
P0111 IAT sensor circuit range/performance problem ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0111 )
P0112 IAT sensor circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0112 )
P0113 IAT sensor circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0113 )
P0117 ECT sensor circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0117 )
P0118 ECT sensor circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0118 )
P0122 TP sensor No.1 circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0122)
P0123 TP sensor No.1 circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0123 )
P0125 Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0125 )
P0126 Insufficient coolant temperature for stable operation ON 2 Thermostat (See DTC P0126, 0128 )
P0128 Coolant thermostat problem ON 2 Thermostat
P0130 Front HO2S circuit problem ON 2 HO2S (See DTC P0130 )
P0131 Front HO2S circuit low voltage ON 2 HO2S (See DTC P0131)
P0132 Front HO2S circuit high voltage ON 2 HO2S (See DTC P0132 )
P0133 Front HO2S circuit slow response ON 2 HO2S (See DTC P0133 )
P0138 Rear HO2S circuit high voltage ON 2 HO2S (See DTC P0138 )
P0139 Rear HO2S circuit slow response ON 2 HO2S (See DTC P0139)
P0171 System too lean ON 2 Fuel system (See DTC P0171 )
P0172 System too rich ON 2 Fuel system (See DTC P0172 )
P0222 TP sensor No.2 circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0222)
P0223 TP sensor No.2 circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0223 )
P0300 Random misfire detected Flash/ON 1 or 2 Misfire (See DTC P0300 )
P0301 Front rotor misfire detected Flash/ON 1 or 2 Misfire (See DTC P0301, P0302 )
P0302 Rear rotor misfire detected Flash/ON 1 or 2 Misfire P0327 KS circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0327 )
P0328 KS circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0328 )
P0335 Eccentric shaft position sensor circuit problem ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0335 )
P0336 Eccentric shaft position sensor circuit range/performance problem ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0336 )
P0410 AIR system problem ON 2 AIR system (See DTC P0410 )
P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold ON 2 Catalyst (See DTC P0420 )
P0441 EVAP system incorrect purge flow ON 2 EVAP system (See DTC P0441 )
P0442 EVAP system leak detected (small leak) ON 2 EVAP system (See DTC P0442 )
P0443 Purge solenoid valve circuit problem ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0443 )
P0446 EVAP system vent control circuit problem ON 2 EVAP system (See DTC P0446 )
P0455 EVAP system leak detected (large leak) ON 2 EVAP system (See DTC P0455 )
P0456 EVAP system leak detected (very small leak) ON 2 EVAP system (See DTC P0456 )
P0461 Fuel gauge sender unit circuit range/performance problem ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0461 )
P0462 Fuel gauge sender unit circuit low input ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0462 )
P0463 Fuel gauge sender unit circuit high input ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0463 )
P0480 Cooling fan No.1 control circuit problem OFF 2 Other (See DTC P0480 )
P0481 Cooling fan No.2 control circuit problem OFF 2 Other (See DTC P0481 )
P0500 VSS circuit problem ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0500 )
P0505 Idle air control system problem OFF (See DTC P0505 )
P0506 Idle air control system RPM lower than expected ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0506 )
P0507 Idle air control system RPM higher than expected ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0507 )
P0562 System voltage low (KAM) ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0562 )
P0564 Cruise control switch input circuit problem OFF 1 Other (See DTC P0564 )
P0571 Brake switch input circuit problem OFF 1 Other (See DTC P0571 )
P0601 PCM memory check sum error ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0601 )
P0602 PCM programming error ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0602 )
P0604 PCM random access memory error ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0604 )
P0610 PCM vehicle options error ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0610 )
P0638 Throttle actuator control circuit range/performance problem ON 1 CCM (See DTC P0638 )
P0661 SSV solenoid valve control circuit low ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0661 )
P0662 SSV solenoid valve control circuit high ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0662 )
P0703 Brake switch No.1 input circuit problem ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0703 )
P0704 Clutch switch input circuit problem ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0704 )
P0850 Neutral switch input circuit problem ON 2 CCM (See DTC P0850 )
P1260 Immobilizer system problem OFF 1 Other (See DTC P1260 )
P1574 TP sensor output incongruent ON 1 CCM (See DTC P1574 )
P1577 APP sensor output incongruent ON 1 CCM (See DTC P1577 )
P1686 Metering oil pump control circuit low flow side problem ON 1 Other (See DTC P1686 )
P1687 Metering oil pump control circuit high flow side problem ON 1 Other (See DTC P1687 )
P1688 Metering oil pump control circuit initial check problem ON 1 Other (See DTC P1688 )
P2004 APV stuck open ON 2 CCM (See DTC P2004 )
P2006 APV motor control circuit IC problem ON 2 CCM (See DTC P2006 )
P2008 APV motor control circuit/open ON 2 CCM (See DTC P2008 )
P2017 APV position sensor circuit problem ON 2 CCM (See DTC P2017 )
P2070 SSV stuck open ON 2 CCM (See DTC P2070 )
P2096 Target A/F feedback system too lean ON 2 Fuel system (See DTC P2096 )
P2097 Target A/F feedback system too rich ON 2 Fuel system (See DTC P2097 )
P2101 Drive-by-wire relay control circuit problem ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2101 )
P2106 Throttle actuator control system-forced limited power ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2106 )
P2107 Throttle actuator control module processor error ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2107 )
P2108 Throttle actuator control module performance error ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2108 )
P2109 TP sensor minimum stop range/performance problem ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2109 )
P2112 Throttle actuator control system range/performance problem ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2112 )
P2119 Throttle actuator control throttle body range/performance problem
ON 2 CCM (See DTC P2119 )
P2122 APP sensor No.1 circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2122 )
P2123 APP sensor No.1 circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2123 )
P2127 APP sensor No.2 circuit low input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2127 )
P2128 APP sensor No.2 circuit high input ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2128 )
P2135 TP sensor No.1/No.2 voltage correlation problem ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2135 )
P2136 TP sensor No.1/No.3 voltage correlation problem ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2136 )
P2138 APP sensor No.1/No.2 voltage correlation problem ON 1 CCM (See DTC P2138 )
P2195 Front HO2S signal stuck lean ON 2 HO2S (See DTC P2195 )
P2196 Front HO2S signal stuck rich ON 2 HO2S (See DTC P2196 )
P2257 AIR pump relay control circuit low ON 2 CCM (See DTC P2257 )
P2258 AIR pump relay control circuit high ON 2 CCM (See DTC P2258 )
P2259 AIR solenoid valve control circuit low ON 2 CCM (See DTC P2259 )
P2260 AIR solenoid valve control circuit high ON 2 CCM (See DTC P2260 )
P2270 Rear HO2S signal stuck lean ON 2 HO2S (See DTC P2270 )
P2271 Rear HO2S signal stuck rich ON 2 HO2S (See DTC P2271 )
P2401 EVAP system leak detection pump control circuit low ON 2 EVAP system (See DTC P2401 )
P2402 EVAP system leak detection pump control circuit high ON 2 EVAP system (See DTC P2402 )
P2404 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit range/performance problem ON 2 EVAP system (See DTC 2404 )
P2405 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit low ON 2 EVAP system (See DTC P2405 )
P2406 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit high ON 2 EVAP system (See DTC P2406 )
P2407 EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit intermittent/erratic problem ON 2 EVAP system (See DTC P2407 )
P2502 Charging system voltage problem OFF 1 Other (See DTC P2502 )
P2503 Charging system voltage low OFF 1 Other (See DTC P2503 )
P2504 Charging system voltage high OFF 1 Other (See DTC P2504)
U0073 CAN system communication error (See DTC TABLE [MULTIPLEX COMMUNICATION SYSTEM] )
U0101 Communication error to TCM
U0121 Communication error to ABS HU/CM
U0155 Communication error to instrument cluster
U0167 Communication error to keyless control module

Here is the complete engine diagnostics and troubleshooting steps to take for each. Clich Here

More information on OBDII Codes is available HERE.
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HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**
Basic Maintenance Info and Collision Guide

Use these as a guide. You can change items listed more often.

Engine Oil: 3,000 miles
Oil Filter: 3,000 miles
Air Filter: 15-37,500 miles
Inspect Drive belt: 24,000 miles
Transmission: 30,000 miles (75w-90 GL-4)
Differential: 30,000 miles (75w-90 GL-5)
Spark Plugs: 30,000 miles (see attachment)
Ignition Coils: 30,000 miles (see attachment)
Brake Fluid: 45-60,000 miles
Engine Coolant: 60,000 miles
Fuel Filter: 100,000 miles

Paint Codes:
Sunlight Silver Metallic Clearcoat - 22V
Velocity Red Mica Tricoat - 27A
Galaxy Grey Metallic Clearcoat - 32S
Electric Blue Mica Clearcoat - 34J
White Water Pearl - ???
Crystal White Pearl Tricoat - 34K
Sparkling Black Metallic Clearcoat - 35N
Diamond Gray Pearl Clearcoat - 38E
Brilliant Black - A3F
Black Cherry - ???
Yellow - ???
Metro Grey - 36C
**help me get this right**

Maintenance PN's Attached


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HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**
RX-8 and all other rotary manuals online

The RX-8 manuals and information is most of the way down the page. Click Here.
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HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**
Added Paint codes, thanks to Thunderberk for the info. If you have any more paint code info let me know and I will add it to the list (post #9).


HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**
Confirmed mechanical changes for series ii rx-8 2009+

All New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with TEMPERATURE SENSOR newly added and built into the PCM, when ETC (Engine Compartment Temperature) reaches 230F or 100C with Ignition OFF, Medium Cooling Fans Switch ON.
New Larger Genuine Oil Filter and Repositioned On Front Timing Cover Housing To-wards The Sump (Left Hand Side). USE GENUINE 09 SERIES II OIL FILTER ONLY.
Revised Oil Filler and Dip Stick (Longer Type).
New EMOP "Electric Metering Oil Pumps" Two of them... Internal Oil Pressure in EMOP's is between 7.3 and 21.7 PSI (Used for the first time by Mazda)
New Design Oil Injection Nozzles 3 per Rotor Housing..Totalling 6.
New Oil Pump Assembly.
50% Higher Oil Pressure Rate at 100 oC (121oF) @3000 RPM...500 kPa {5.10 kgf/cm2, 72.5 psi} When compared to Series 1 RX-8.
New Oil Pressure Sensor (Located on #1 EMOP).
Larger Oil Pan Sump Capacity.
New Hex (8mm) Type Sump Drain Plug.
New Internal Oil/Sump Pan Magnet...(First Time Used In A Rotary Engine Since 1985 FC RX-7)
New External Silver Plate Engine Sump Guard.
New Inlet Manifold with Changed APV Position Sensors.
Revised 4 Fuel Injection Nozzles (2 Primary, 2 Secondary). (Series I six Port Engine had 6 FI Nozzles).
Revised Atmospheric Air Control Solenoid (Near Throttle Body)
New Fuel Pump.
New Radiator Core.
New Radiator Electric Fan Motors.
Revised Radiator Fans Speeds from 2 to 3 Speeds. (Low, Middle, High).
New Alternator.
New Starter Motor.
New Battery 80D26L. (80 AMP Hour) (Was 50D22L (50AH) or 75D26L (75AH) in Series I)
New Exhaust System.
New Yaw Rate Sensor Unit.
New Air Conditioner Temperature Controller (Amplifier).
New Bridgestone RE050A's in 18" and 19" (R3).
New Manual Transmission (6 speed MX-5/Miata) (Reverse is now next to 1st gear not next to 6th gear).
New Differential Ratio (Manual).
New Differential Fixing Plate Washer on PPF (Power Plant Frame).
New Differential Mounting Bracket.
New Additional Alloy Cooling Fins (4) on Alloy Differential Cover Plate, Plus Deeper Set Cooling Fins.
Changed Throw Out Bearing (Thrust or Fork Bearing).
Revised Oil Coolers, Air Intakes and Oil Cooler Hose Lines.
Extra Rotor Knock Sensor (Now 1 per Rotor, Total Of 2).
New Water Pump/ New Timing Cover to suit.
New Water Pump Pulley.
New Water Pump "O" Ring as Gasket.
New Spark Plug Leads.
New Ignition Coil Backing/Mounting Plate (looks ventilated or holed)
New Alternator/Air Compressor Drive Belts.
Revised Eccentric Shaft (Crankshaft) Pulley.
Revised Oxygen Sensor (CAT).
Revised Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor (Exhaust Manifold).
New Air Pump Control Unit.
New One Piece Trans Tunnel Heat Shield (Previously Two Piece).
New Under Body Covers Reducing C Drag from 0.31 to now 0.30.
Larger Fuel Tank (5 litres extra or around a gallon).
New Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) Hydraulic Unit Control Module.
New Rear Suspension Control Links (Rods) Upper/Lower and Trailing have Increased In Diameter.
New Rear Stabilizer Bar.
New Rear Shocks And Springs.
New Rear Parking Brake Cables.
New ABS Wheel Sensors (All 4 Wheels).
Revised TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) US Only.
New Front Upper And Front Lower Suspension Arms (Wishbone).
New Front Steering Knuckles And Wheel Hubs.
New Front Stabilizer Bar.
New Front Shock and Springs.
Revised Power Steering Control System Unit.
Revised Headlamp Auto Leveling Sensors.
New 3 Piece (Instead of 2) Strut Tower Brace (Manual Only), Auto's Retains Two Piece Tower Brace.
Revised Front and Rear Wheel Arch Splash Guards/Shields.
Thicker (Heavier Guage) Steel On The Two Front Strut Towers.
Additional Spot Weldings Around Both Door Openings For Increased Rigidity.
Stiffened Body Shell = Torsional (twisting) and Flexural (bending) Rigidity have been increased by 5.4 and 8.7 per cent respectively.
Auto's and Manual's both have 6 port engines, Max Power RPM (kw) has been limited to 7500 for Auto compared to 8200 RPM for the manual.

For much more detail CLICK HERE.

Thanks to ASH8 for the detailed information.


HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**
Thinking doing a catback is tuning really necessary if that's all i do?
No, not needed. Tuning is only really needed when you make major changes (ie cat delete, new intake with different dimensions, FI, engine work). I think the car runs much better with even a decent tune than it does from the factory but that is a different discussion. What catback are you looking at?


HIS: 2005 RX-8 WWP GT 6MT* HERS: 2006 Speed6 BCM 6MT**
I didn't know that SR made their own catback. The corksport exhaust is great (and light), go for it.


Workin on it
Clutch Questons

So I'm looking at buying an 04 RX8 with 82K miles on it, but i have some questions.

How long does a clutch usually last before it needs to be replaced?

What's is involved in putting in a new one?