runs fine, has trouble starting

imac

I Like Turbo?
note: this is a repost from the general engine forums, but since i couldnt get an answer in there, i figured id give it a shot in the MS3 section so it could be seen by some new faces.

ok heres the deal...

as of now i'm driving an MS3, but my old daily driver and current winter beater is a 94 celica. about 4 years ago, i had just rebuilt the motor in my celica when i hit a deer, set the airbags off, and totalled the car. with no insurance coverage on it, and since i had just dumped a good amount of work and money into the car, i started looking for another celica with a bad motor but straight body. 3 years ago, i found my donor car, and swapped my good motor into it. the car runs and drives fine now, just has minor inconveniences, but nothing with the drivetrain. when the motor was in the old car, i never once had a problem starting it. now, tho, it can sometimes take me upwards of 6 tries to get it started, especially when the motor is already warm. it kinda seems as if its not getting enough fuel to start, because i can usually get it to start by blipping the throttle a little bit once it starts to turn over.

its got me completely baffled, and it's been like this since i did the swap... hasnt gotten any better, hasnt gotten any worse. i tried injector cleaner, and that accomplished nothing. i thought maybe there was a vacuum hose that hadn't been attached in the right place, or hadn't been attached at all, but i dont see any that look out of place. also i would think the vacuum hose would cause the car to run a little rough, which it doesnt.

not a huge issue, as the car still gets me where i need it to, once it finally starts. i just figured i'd run it by you guys to see if anybody had any thoughts or ideas.

btw its the 7AFE motor, 1.8L




some additional information requested in the original post, may come in handy:

it never starts then stalls. once it revs for maybe a half second, its golden. if it wont start, it just cranks for a while and either doesnt turn over at all, or sounds like it starts to then dies when you release the key. the latter scenario is why i blip the throttle a little when it sounds like it wants to turn over... seems to need it, like the motor isnt dumping enough fuel for startup. the extra gas causes the engine to rev a little upon turning over, and once it does that, its fine. or maybe it somehow floods itself upon being turned off and that's why it needs the extra gas. lol does that even make sense? just chucking theories out there.

no check engine lights on, have not thrown a single code since the swap.

the harness is from the car that i got the body from. by using that one, i didnt need to cut any wires or anything, just used what was there.

no, no major changes at all during the swap. it was a 7AFE mated to a 5 speed being dumped into a car which i took a 7AFE mated to a 5 speed out of. the only difference at all between the 2 cars is that the newer one is a hatch, while the older one was a coupe. as far as i know, that has absolutely no bearing on anything going on in the engine bay.
 
Two things, how long was the engine sitting without running? And second, did you check your spark plugs, wires, rotary cap, and your ground. All of those can give you the problem you are having now.
 
Two things, how long was the engine sitting without running? And second, did you check your spark plugs, wires, rotary cap, and your ground. All of those can give you the problem you are having now.

it sat for almost a year. i ran it a few times during that period to try and keep it from deteriorating too much, but not nearly as much as i should have. however, when i did start it up in the old car, i never remember having any trouble getting it to turn over like i do now, which is what keeps the vacuum line theory in the back of my head... seems like it would have probably been something that i did during the swap to mess it up.

as far as the plugs and such, wouldnt they all cause issues when running too?
 
Did you swap out anything else? Fuel pump perhaps? Clogged fuel filter? The components on the donor car may not be up to snuff.
 
everything drivetrain-related came from the old car. basically everything that was bolted to the motor. i did use the suspension from the new one because the car was from SC and hadnt seen the winter abuse that mine had. only other thing that i can think of that i wouldnt have swapped along with the motor is the fuse box.
 
Not wanting to start when the car is hot might have something to do with the coil. Make sure you are getting fuel from the pump, is the pump turning on, is the fuel pressure regulator still ok, are you getting spark?
 
Not wanting to start when the car is hot might have something to do with the coil. Make sure you are getting fuel from the pump, is the pump turning on, is the fuel pressure regulator still ok, are you getting spark?

fuel pump isnt a bad theory... not sure whether it's turning on right when i try to start it. as for the FPR, i'm pretty sure that's fine, and yes, i'm getting spark.
 
my buddy has the same problem on his old pos were 90% sure its the coils/spark plugs
 
fuel pump/filter, spark plugs/distrub, maf sensor

its probably about time i replace the spark plugs in that car anyway, and i'm gonna have to check the fuel pump. but a MAF sensor? what would that have to do with startup? not trying to refute here as i'm just trying to collect some information to give me some starting points to try and pinpoint the issue, but i'm a little confused as to why an airflow sensor would keep the car from starting.
 
its probably about time i replace the spark plugs in that car anyway, and i'm gonna have to check the fuel pump. but a MAF sensor? what would that have to do with startup? not trying to refute here as i'm just trying to collect some information to give me some starting points to try and pinpoint the issue, but i'm a little confused as to why an airflow sensor would keep the car from starting.

Maybe you can try to read the maf voltage to see if it is a problem.

I had a ford truck that required "priming" of the fuel system before it would start. I could crank it over forever, but it would not fire. I got a tip to cycle the key from the off and on position, which would help build pressure at the pump and allow me to hear if it was turning on. The pump turned on, but the check valve was bad, so it took a few times of "priming" the fuel system to get it to start.

Again, since you are trying to keep this car reliable, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the spark plugs. If all else fails, do a compression test. Good luck
 
its probably about time i replace the spark plugs in that car anyway, and i'm gonna have to check the fuel pump. but a MAF sensor? what would that have to do with startup? not trying to refute here as i'm just trying to collect some information to give me some starting points to try and pinpoint the issue, but i'm a little confused as to why an airflow sensor would keep the car from starting.

the maf sensor will pick up how much air is coming in so it knows how much fuel to put in. I had a starting and idling issue with one of my BMW, and after cleaning the MAF sensor, it started and idle much better. Drivability was also improved. If cleaning does not work, you might have to replace the MAF, thats if it is the issue. Look online on how to clean the MAF sensor, but be careful, the MAF sensor is very sensitive and can be easily damaged.

+1 to compression test
 
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My 2 cents:

Is the battery / alternator generating enough juice? Is the starter engine good?

I remember my dad's pickup once having a similar problem. On a cold start it would turn over just fine, but once warmed up and shut down (say, after a drive to a store to pick someting up) it wouldn't just start up again, you had to give it a few tries. In that case though, I remember the starter engine sounding odd, like it was freewheeling or something. In the end it was a problem with the starter and after it was replaced, everything works like a charm.

Since you say it gets worse once the engine has run for a while, I'm thinking it's something electrical. The hotter metals get, the worse they conduct electricity.
 
the maf sensor will pick up how much air is coming in so it knows how much fuel to put in. I had a starting and idling issue with one of my BMW, and after cleaning the MAF sensor, it started and idle much better. Drivability was also improved. If cleaning does not work, you might have to replace the MAF, thats if it is the issue. Look online on how to clean the MAF sensor, but be careful, the MAF sensor is very sensitive and can be easily damaged.

+1 to compression test

ah, thanks for the explanation... i couldnt quite grasp how the MAF sensor would affect startup, but that makes plenty of sense.
 
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