rr racing udp (underdrive pulley)

[Lord_Zath]

No lights dimming whatsoever. This is with my stock system and subwoofer pounding. No problems with windows. A/C is still strong at 2nd level. I'm actually liking the fact that the A/C is also having less of a negative effect on hp when activated.

I drove for 7-8 hours straight from here to Minneapolis two weekends ago. Didn't even stop for gas or bathroom. That tells me that the water pump is fine... had the UDP on for a good 1,000 miles now, perhaps more.

 

[Lord_Zath]

I don't think that an underdrive pulley would have noticeable gains, but if you are going NA, you need all that you can.

It's actually the perfect mod to do in tandem with a header. A header will add hp in the mid-to-upper rpm range. A lightened pulley will free up hp especially in the low-to-mid range. So they work well together. Actually I have noticed the car has much more torque with the UDP in. I have an automatic, and have actually been able to get wheel hop a few times after putting this in.

Not huge gains, but definitely gives the car more pep. And for $150, the price is definitely right!

 

[GHOSTWHISPER]

I am now purchasing this

 

[Lord_Zath]

Enjoy! You have an auto, right? There is one thing to keep in mind. An auto tranny has nothing in it to stop the crank from spinning. But if you look under the car, you can find the auto's "flywheel", and jam a heavy piece of metal (i.e. tire removal tool) between the teeth. It will hold.

It's a b**** to take the crank bolt off. You'll also want to loosen and remove both belts before you remove the crank bolt hehe. When reinstalling, remember 121 ft/lbs of torque. Mine's actually somewhere around 90-100 and the dealer said it was within spec.

Also make sure you reset the ECU afterwards. Let me know how it works out!

 

[SlowPro98]

^^how long did it take for you to put it in? Is there a how to write up?

 

[gino]

Had my rr pulley in for a few months now. Have to check my dyno charts, but the WHP and torque gains are measurable. That's "measurable," not "big."

Noticeable positive difference in throttle response and acceleration with a MT. No problems w/AC, lights, windows or any other electrical accessory.

Belts are Gates #s 040355, and 050446 or 050450. Last three digits are belt length whether it's Gates or another brand.

BTW, Rafi's selling his pulley--black only--for $148 including shipping. If you missed the GB a while back, it's still a good deal. Unorthodox is another $50 or so if color's worth it it you.

 

[Lord_Zath]

^^how long did it take for you to put it in? Is there a how to write up?

Probably take one hour, maybe two. Not sure if there's a writeup, so I'll just type it in here for you guys. Unfortunately, no pictures

1. Put car on jackstand(s), set parking brake.

2. Remove right-front wheel.

3. You will see a plastic cover that needs to be removed. There's a snap for it on the upper-left, and I believe you will also have to unscrew some bolts that are underneath the front air dam of the car. This will allow the plastic cover to hang down and rest on the ground while you're installing.

4. Loosen and remove all belts. There are bolts dealing with tension on the end of each pulley. Loosen them and remove the belts.

5. If in a manual tranny, I believe you should leave the car in a gear, so it stops the crank. Could be wrong, as I have an auto. For auto, locate the "flywheel" on the driver's side of the engine. Find a bar that will fit (the wheel removal tool works) in between the teeth and set it.

6. Remove the crank bolt. It's on there pretty hard, so you may need a breaker bar or something.

7. Remove stock pulley. Admire the difference in weight between the two. Install RR-Racing or Unorthdox UDP.

8. Tighten crank bolt. Mine was tightened to about 90 ft/lbs, but others have said 121 ft/lbs. Either way is within specs, according to my local mazda tech.

9. Install new belts. Part #'s can be found in the post above. Use the tensioners you loosened to tighten the belts in place.

10. Replace plastic cover. In my case, the clip holding the cover in busted, so we used a zip-tie, and it worked perfectly. No problem.

11. Reinstall wheel, remove jack stands.

12. Reset ECU. Disconnect negative battery terminal, pump brake 3 times. Re-connect negative battery terminal.

13. Start up engine, let idle for a min., then turn the wheels all the way each direction. If you hear squealing, tighten the belt going to the power steering pump.

14. Drive away and enjoy the noticeable difference in power!

Total time should be around 1 to 2 hours.

 

[SlimMilkMan327]

there was a writeup in the how to forums, unless they moved it. It had pics and everything and I think that lordy guy wrote it

 

[Lord_Zath]

I migh thave written something about it, but nothing this extensive. Btw, when I installed mine, we only had three lines to go by.

"Remove wheel. Pulley right there."

"Install new pulley."

"121 ft/lbs."

That's all we had to go on. It helps greatly if you have a buddy that can help you out and is familiar w/the engine

 

[SlimMilkMan327]

I have one line to go by "don't #$%# up" (censored for the little children on this forum"

 

[Mad Hatter]

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94501&highlight=udp:)

 

[Kansei]

http://www.rr-racing.com/bulkbuy.htm

Apparently, this still works hahaha

Thanks for posting this link I bought one off that page

 

[Kansei]

Had my rr pulley in for a few months now. Have to check my dyno charts, but the WHP and torque gains are measurable. That's "measurable," not "big."

Noticeable positive difference in throttle response and acceleration with a MT. No problems w/AC, lights, windows or any other electrical accessory.

Belts are Gates #s 040355, and 050446 or 050450. Last three digits are belt length whether it's Gates or another brand.

BTW, Rafi's selling his pulley--black only--for $148 plus 10 bucks shipping. If you missed the GB a while back, it's still a good deal. Unorthodox is another $50 or so if color's worth it it you.

If I just bought the RR underdrive pulley, do I need to replace both belts or just one?

 

[yourfather_luke]

i do have a question about the low end gains- and sorry if it's already been answered. so after months of h/e/i i'm tired of the power loss under 3k. will the udp help out 'dramatically' with that? this would be the only reason i'd consider getting one, really, and don't want to deal with the expense if it won't...

 

[gino]

If I just bought the RR underdrive pulley, do I need to replace both belts or just one?

Both. I posted the Gates #s on previous page.

 

[gino]

i'm tired of the power loss under 3k. will the udp help out 'dramatically' with that?

"Dramatically," doubtful. Noticeable, yes, with MT. Assume same with AT, but to a lesser degree. Anyone here have one in an AT P5?

BTW, I misquoted rr-Racing price. It's $148 including $10 shipping charge. Sorry, Rafi.

 

[Lord_Zath]

yeah you'll notice it in the low-end. It prettymuch gave back/added to the low-end for me after the header was installed. And I have a sport AT...

 

[yourfather_luke]

nice. so you know exactly what i'm talking about then. that bermuda triangle of motor until you hit 3-32k...i might have to get me one of these here udp thingajigs then thanks!

 

[SlimMilkMan327]

damnit I want one

 

[yourfather_luke]

do it