RPM's dipping very low

PLEASE READ: THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT (PERHAPS A MODERATOR COULD BRING MORE ATTENTION TO THIS)<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

If you have been keeping up with this post, you will realize that it seems that we have stumbled upon yet another issue with our MazdaSpeed Proteges. To recap: a number of us have been experiencing a drop in our RPM, either when we idle or when we disengage the engine after medium to high revs. Many of us have seen our dash lights come on because the RPMS drop so low, or even complete stall. I have been working to try to correct this problem, I had limited success with some upward adjustment of the idle speed of my car. After I adjusted the idle it appeared that my stalling had ceased, however after about 40-50 mi of driving, the stall returned. I originally thought this stall was linked to my new Perrin SRI, THIS IS DEFFINATLY NOT THE CASE, because I am having the same issue with my AEM CAI, I also know of at least one member on this forum who is stock and experiencing the same issue. I have been in touch with a Master Mechanic from Mazda, and with his help I plan to cure this issue. The mechanic informed me that Mazda found a defect in their waste gate. There appears to be a gap in the waste gate, and for some reason the cars with this issue do not hold as much boost. The mechanic told me that the MSP should run a constant 6psi, and spike to 8psi. I have a CustomMSP SMIC, with Turbohoses hardpipes, an AEM CAI, a turbohoses filter, and I am recirualting the stock BPV. In my mind these mods should have increased my boost at least 1psi (this is based on what other members experience) however, my boost gauge reads a constant 5psi and spikes to 7psi. So, on Monday I am going to call my dealer andask them if the know of any wastegate issues with the MSP (the mechanic said it is more common in the 2003 MSP rather than the 2003.5 MSP). I know of another post where a member had a bunch of mods to his car, and he got beaten a stock MSP. I am not saying that this is the problem, but I am also not saying that this is not the problem. So I will be sure to keep you all posted. From what I gather I have every symptom of this problem. I am prepared to take some crap from the dealer about my mods but I am armed with my own copy of the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act (for those of you who dont know, this act is put out the FTC, and it basically states an dealer cannot deny you warranty work, simply because you have in stalled quality aftermarket parts, the dealer has to specifically state how the aftermarket parts are causing the problem.) As I stated I will keep you all informed of the outcome, if you have any questions please feel free to PM me or just ask in this thread. We are all hear to help one another.<o:p></o:p>
 
my PR5 has been having this problem for some time; idle will fall low 500-600 RPM's then bump up to 1000 then settle at 750. usually after coming to a stop and once in a while after idling for some time.

i had my EGR valve replaced a couple months ago. maybe i will give my dealer a call and have them check out the Idle Air Control Valve if this has been a common protege problem?
 
I will be returing my car back to stock in the next few days, so that I don't have any issues with the dealership. I called this morning and they said that the federal gov prohibits any modifications to the air intake system or exhaust system on the vehicle for emissions reasons (if someone has some lagitamate material to counter this please inform me) Otherwise, I will remove my new SMIC, by turbohoses hardpipes with my type-S BOV, my AEM intake, and my turbohoses filter. I will be replacing the parts with the OEM crap SMIC, the OEM crap platic pipes, and the OEM crap stock air box. At least I did not have anything major done to the car. I will do this in the next week or so and them make an appointment for service. Again I will keep you all informed of the outcome. This SUX!!!!
 
Well, if you go back to stock, the problem will probably go away, so the dealer won't be able to fix it.
 
mspdfreak said:
Well, if you go back to stock, the problem will probably go away, so the dealer won't be able to fix it.

This may not be true. When I was having this problem, I returned everything to stock and continued to have the same problem.
 
Wonder if the light intermittant whistle under my hood at 3k rpm is the wastegate issue you mentioned. It would make sense since I boost at 4.9 - 5 psi stock. It started doing this after my dealer replaced my whole turbo setup under warranty because of a bad wastegate actuator. Of course, they couldn't get it to whistle while it was there, so I have to hope that I'm near the dealership when it does it so I can make sure they hear it.
 
What is so difficult about just building a car that works well? If this continues I am either going to sell the car, or put a bigger turbo on it!!
 
Zoom-Zoom03 said:
What is so difficult about just building a car that works well? If this continues I am either going to sell the car, or put a bigger turbo on it!!

Lol, cause everyone knows a bigger turbo will solve any problem.
(rofl2)
 
i have this exact problem and i am bone stock. have had it for some time now...the EGR valve isn't the problem, and i dunno what is. I also have that 'chirping whistle' coming from my car nearly all the time now. It is the same sound that happens when engaging 1st gear, and you handle the clutch bad so it gets in gear at a very low RPM (like 5-700ish). please help us man...it's so annoying...i love sitting at a stop, hearing my car sound like s***, looking over at the P.O.S. car next to me while the guy in that car is staring at my wheel well wondering what the heck is wrong with my ride....
 
Bump

Can anyone post pics and/or a description of how to adjust the idle screw? Sitting in traffic w/ no tunes since the cars is idling too low for the carputer to stay booted sucks. :p
 
my car does this also....it started happening recently after i got my lsd replaced....i'm sure it has nothing to do with that, i guess something was touched and it messed up my idle a little.

when i come to a stop it will drop down to like 400-500 rpm and sit there for a couple seconds then go back up to 750. Its weird and almost feels like the car is going to stall, but it runs fine otherwise.
 
^^ same thing with mine, that's y i want a 800-900 rpm idle, it'll be smooth and i'll be able to use the UD pulley witjout worring about alternator output
 
I read here that you shouldn't use ud pulleys on FI cars, and it has nothing to do with alternator output.
 
i'm honored u think i'm FI, but i only have a 100hp ES

the alternator output is decresed during idle since the UD pulley is about 2/3 the size of teh stocker
 

New Threads and Articles

Back