Rotated the upper strut bearings and WOW

[CustomMSP]

As per the instructions on http://www.delsingmotorsport.com/mazda.htm I can't believe how responsive the car is now!! All I have to do is just look at the steering wheel and the car turns lol. I have zero wheelhop now as well with the front AWR a/t and Kooldino's MM Inserts. The car brakes a lot stronger and straighter. Car feels like new again in the front only though lol. The rear is still loose as hell. Got to get those bushings and the bar replaced. I suggest everybody does this mod. Car tracks as straight as 6 o'clock I'm sure the toe is out though.

 

[Kooldino]

Awesome! I think I may do this. How do you actually rotate it?

 

[CustomMSP]

1. jack the front of the car up on both sides(very important)
2. unbolt 4 nuts on top of each strut bearing
3. turn steering wheel all the way to the side you're working on at the moment so the strut bearing can drop out of it's slot.
4. rotate the bearing counterclockwise on the driver's side and clockwise on the passenger's side a 1/4 of rotation each.
5. Get the bearings back in their slots however you're able to do so and bolt everything back up. I torqued the 8 nuts to 40ft lbs. First time around I had the wheels removed and used a jack to jack the struts back in to their slots by the control arm/knuckle joint. Second time I had my brother use a braker bar under the wheel to lift the strut assembly back into their slots.

 

[Stormtrooper77]

What about alignment? Will you need to get this done?

 

[Mike R]

What about alignment? Will you need to get this done?

Yes, the toe will be out of spec

 

[CustomMSP]

I need an alignment anyway I'm not sure if this proceedure applies to anything else than a MSP though.

 

[Kooldino]

By "second time" do you mean for the other wheel, or did you do both of them twice? How does it handle?

Also, did you have to disconnect the endlinks?

 

[peepsalot]

This changes toe angles? It will wear down tires faster, no?

 

[Mallard]

This changes toe angles? It will wear down tires faster, no?

That's why you need to get an alignment if you do anything that changes camber. Increasing your negative camber gives you more toe in (?) IIRC.

That would be one reason why your steering would feel quicker. A little toe in is a good thing, you probably didn't drastically change it, but you'll want to get an alignment anyway.

 

[peepsalot]

Ok, I don't know a whole lot about adjusting suspension and all that, so I'm kinda confused now. You are saying this mod mainly affects camber, but that changing the toe is going to be a side effect of that?
What is usually altered when doing a normal alignment?
If you do this, and also get re-aligned, will your tires still wear faster, or unevenly?

 

[Mallard]

Ok, I don't know a whole lot about adjusting suspension and all that, so I'm kinda confused now. You are saying this mod mainly affects camber, but that changing the toe is going to be a side effect of that?
What is usually altered when doing a normal alignment?
If you do this, and also get re-aligned, will your tires still wear faster, or unevenly?

ANY change to camber will effect toe. That's why when you do an alignment you set the camber first, then set the toe after.

Rotating the upper strut bearing moves the top ot the strut farther inward, thus increasing your camber. You will get about -1 degree out of it. The camber alone will make the inside of your tire wear faster if you always drive on a straight, flat road. But the car will feel more responsive, and -1 degree isn't too drastic and I wouldn't worry about it. Toe will effect your tire wear also, and that's why it's important to have it properly aligned. Plus, toe out in the front will make it feel like you're steering a lot, while toe in will make your steering feel quicker.

Short answer: This mod mainly effects camber, but toe changes as a result of that camber.

 

[CustomMSP]

By "second time" do you mean for the other wheel, or did you do both of them twice? How does it handle?

Also, did you have to disconnect the endlinks?

No, I did this twice...first time I rotated the bearing too much. It didn't handle as well as it does now. Well the directions call for disconnection of endlinks, but I got around that If you follow my directions you should be ok. Handles better. More front end grip in turns and less plow. Rotates easier.

 

[CustomMSP]

This changes toe angles? It will wear down tires faster, no?

That's why you should get an alignment afterwards. I'm not sure by how much the toe changes though. It doesn't feel like it's a lot.

 

[CustomMSP]

That's why you need to get an alignment if you do anything that changes camber. Increasing your negative camber gives you more toe in (?) IIRC.

That would be one reason why your steering would feel quicker. A little toe in is a good thing, you probably didn't drastically change it, but you'll want to get an alignment anyway.

This mod changes the caster as well

 

[Kooldino]

ANY change to camber will effect toe. That's why when you do an alignment you set the camber first, then set the toe after.

Rotating the upper strut bearing moves the top ot the strut farther inward, thus increasing your camber. You will get about -1 degree out of it. The camber alone will make the inside of your tire wear faster if you always drive on a straight, flat road. But the car will feel more responsive, and -1 degree isn't too drastic and I wouldn't worry about it. Toe will effect your tire wear also, and that's why it's important to have it properly aligned. Plus, toe out in the front will make it feel like you're steering a lot, while toe in will make your steering feel quicker.

Short answer: This mod mainly effects camber, but toe changes as a result of that camber.

If it gives him more negative camber, I wonder why it reduces wheel hop? Wouldn't more negative camber INCREASE wheel hop?

 

[Kooldino]

No, I did this twice...first time I rotated the bearing too much. It didn't handle as well as it does now. Well the directions call for disconnection of endlinks, but I got around that If you follow my directions you should be ok. Handles better. More front end grip in turns and less plow. Rotates easier.

How much did you rotate the bearing the first time?

 

[Mallard]

The camber had nothing to do with the wheel hop, he stated that he also put in motor mounts.


Go to Delsing Motorsports web page and look at his picture describing this. Hopefully the MP3's have a paint dot like the MSP on the strut bearing. Just rotate it until the dot is in the right spot. If not, rotate it to where it looks the farthest inward.

 

[Ryoga28]

Do you need to uninstall the front sway bar endlinks to rotate it?

 

[Kooldino]

The camber had nothing to do with the wheel hop, he stated that he also put in motor mounts.

I've heard that camber affects wheel hop. I know he has motor mounts (read his post - I made the rear one for him myself), and they definitely help reduce wheel hop, but it doesn't get rid of it completely.

Go to Delsing Motorsports web page and look at his picture describing this.

I did.

Hopefully the MP3's have a paint dot like the MSP on the strut bearing.

They do, it's a white dot.

 

[CustomMSP]

Not sure why I have no wheel hop now bro. Maybe, because something was messed up with my suspension prior the rotation. When I moved things around maybe things reseated themselves to the correct angle?? I mean I have 45k miles on stock suspension. All I know now is that the front end feels very solid, like when it was newer.

No I didn't disconnect the endlinks.