Replace just the c-rappy B(l)ose Amp?

[chief_wiggum]

I've been through threat after thread looking for a good way to make the Bose system sound good. From what I can deduce from what others have posted, the processing of the signal is done in the amp. My question is, has anyone replaced just the stock Bose amp with something better and had good results. I'd ultimately like to replace the speakers too. I spend most of the time with the windows down enjoying the sound of the exhaust, but would occasionally like to be able to listen to music in this car and not be exasperated. I'm not looking to sink a bunch of money in the audio side of things. Appreciate any help/advice.

 

[kvndoom]

Get a good 3-channel or 5-channel (or 4-channel and bridge the rear input), a decent sub with a small box, and live happily ever after. You might even come to appreciate the stock speakers with some clean power behind them. Definitely go 5-channel if you desire to power the rear speakers (many people don't).

That said, you will prefer an amp with differential balanced inputs, such as JL (expensive) or Kicker (not as expensive), because you will get all kinds of whine and buzz from an amp without them. Alternately you can use GLI's, but success with those has been hit or miss. I'm not sure if there's a complete list out there of amps with differential-balanced inputs.

No amount of power is going to make the stock sub sound good (a 6-inch speaker in a plastic box has no right to be called a "sub"). You could look into some of the shallow-mount subs out there, and might even find one that will fit under the front passenger seat. That would rock because it will save hatch space and bring the bass right up to you.

You're the opposite of me cause I've put a LOT of money into sound gear (not all of which will be used) and only a little bit into mechanical mods. Gotta drown out those rattles!

 

[chief_wiggum]

Get a good 3-channel or 5-channel (or 4-channel and bridge the rear input), a decent sub with a small box, and live happily ever after. You might even come to appreciate the stock speakers with some clean power behind them. Definitely go 5-channel if you desire to power the rear speakers (many people don't).

That said, you will prefer an amp with differential balanced inputs, such as JL (expensive) or Kicker (not as expensive), because you will get all kinds of whine and buzz from an amp without them. Alternately you can use GLI's, but success with those has been hit or miss. I'm not sure if there's a complete list out there of amps with differential-balanced inputs.

No amount of power is going to make the stock sub sound good (a 6-inch speaker in a plastic box has no right to be called a "sub"). You could look into some of the shallow-mount subs out there, and might even find one that will fit under the front passenger seat. That would rock because it will save hatch space and bring the bass right up to you.

You're the opposite of me cause I've put a LOT of money into sound gear (not all of which will be used) and only a little bit into mechanical mods. Gotta drown out those rattles!

Great information, thanks! you recommend either a 3 or 5 channel -- the odd number going to the stock sub?

 

[kvndoom]

Yeah, odd-number amps generally mean a built-in dedicated sub channel. I'd take a serious look at this one:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11537_Kicker+08ZX550.3.html

Might be able to find it cheaper, but still... It's 2 ohm stable on all channels, and I think the bose speakers are 2-ohm. You could start with this, and down the road if you decide to replace the door speakers, you already have a solid amp in place.

For subs...

A 10" in a small sealed box like this:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7586_Sonic+Sub+Box-+1H10-0.7+-Gray-.html
that would take up minimal hatch space, since it's angled and wedged against the seat-back. Use a dual-4-ohm sub for a 2-ohm final impedance, since the amp is 2-ohm stable. There are a LOT of subs out there and just as many opinions on what is good and what isn't, so I'm not going to offer my opinion unless you want it.

Or a shallow 10 or 8 that you could fit under the passenger seat, in place of the bose abomination. I haven't tried an 8" all the way back in the hatch, but some have and say it's good enough. I can't make that call, but personally I wouldn't want smaller than a 10 in the hatch. But under the front seat, even an 8 will give you great bass with some power behind it.

So add up the cost of the amp, the sub and box, plus power wire and miscellaneous installation stuff (adapters, cables, connectors), and you could get a good upgrade for right around 400 bucks. Maybe less if you find some nice deals on craigslist.

 

[60181]

Add in a simple 8 or 10" with an amp and leave the bose. I have a 10" Solo Kicker and amp in mine and it's perfect.

 

[skallen]

WOW!!! That is a smokin deal on that Kicker amp...Solid 400+ Watts RMS to a sub...and a solid 85 Watts RMS to front speakers...Can't really beat that kind of performance for $225...And it's a very reliable Kicker product, not garbage.