Removing Intake Resonator on Mazda3

Love the walk-through pics, I might have to do this soon.

What's nice is that it's free and it'll be at least till the end of the summer before K&N will have their Typhoon system setup... (thumb)
 
Have any pre and post resonator removal dyno's ever been done?

I am interested in this as there were verified gains on the Acura CL type-S when their resonators were removed. I just don't want to lose even a 1/2 ft/lb of torque on this car.

Sidenote: is that the wimpy horn:
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I have an after dyno and it does not do anything noticeable. But I did mine alittle differently. I removed the panel filter and add a cone filter and a 90* tube under the filter box. Too me sound is all you gain here. The restriction is still there with the airbox and the MAF tube.

---Herb---
 
AzMz3 said:
I have an after dyno and it does not do anything noticeable. But I did mine alittle differently. I removed the panel filter and add a cone filter and a 90* tube under the filter box. Too me sound is all you gain here. The restriction is still there with the airbox and the MAF tube.

---Herb---
Yeah if you would have had vad then that could have been removed too....and as for turbulance....the maf sensor does a great job at making turbulance...but you can hear the engine...most people with sticks say they can hear where they need to shift vs where they thought they should shift.
 
goldstar said:
So in other words, Mazda incorporates the resonator into the air intake system in order to make it sound worse, impede air flow and decrease performance and fuel economy? Interesting concept.

02 DX Millenium Red
I agree. A car is designed and tested vigorously, as is, before it leaves off to dealers world wide with Mazdas Approval. The engine is designed to run best with the setup it has by default. Causing the engine to take in more air will make it sound great, but you could be confusing your MAS. It might run into problems years down the road since its slowlyy been running a way it shouldnt be running. I just got my MZ3 so Im sure theres a load you guys know that I dont, but this is just from previous knowledge with previous cars. If you really can prove that this wont damage the engine, now or down the road. Let me know, and I'll think about doing it, cuz I'd love the engine to sound a little more ballsy. You're the pros though. (cheers2)
 
only thing is the car freaks out....throws a check engine light but goes away and never see it again (Unless you have a V6 with injen intake..."AKA Mz6s) I got 2 cels...one was modified air box....and other was converting sri to cai.... for the 6 they did a flowbench test and removing the resonator did more of a change then removing the entire pannel filter...going against a few peoples claims to include aem...lol it's mostly a sound mod till you get a cai.
 
doesn't void warrenty.....as long as you aren't cutting wire harnesses and stuff like that....
 
just did this mod myself this morning

for the 6 bolts, i only found 2 or 3 the rest (underneath the car) were phillips?

i have a sedan US model, dont know if that is the case, it was still pretty much the same thing, i didnt quite follow everything sdo i did a little things differently...

first bolt i used ratchet
second bolt i used straight open end wrench (but i used the socket side)
third bolt i tried EVERYTHINg but everything was toooo long kept hitting inside...
what i used and found VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY easy

was those screwdriver like socket wrenches, (excuse me as i am not car/tool savy) and put the 10mm socket on the end, reached up, hooked it on, and TURNED....came off in like 5-10 seconds =) (this was of course after about 30 mins of trying soo many different angles attempts with every other tool)

waiting on CAI to come in....

would this every throw a CEL by removing it?

also with the CAI, is it best to UNHOOK the negative (and/or) positive before hooking everything up (as on startup itll remap the air to fuel ratio, giving a better chance of NO CEL? or am i just finding an urban myth?_)
 
negative terminal and no cel from removing the box...
 
i did this a couple days ago. i dont think i gained anything, but i love the sound. its nice and deep. although it seems to me that the intake was designed pretty well. it even has the opening in the wheel well to get the coldest possible air just like a quiet stock cai=).
 
sam1 said:
i did this a couple days ago. i dont think i gained anything, but i love the sound. its nice and deep. although it seems to me that the intake was designed pretty well. it even has the opening in the wheel well to get the coldest possible air just like a quiet stock cai=).
yes your intake is a stock cai.....but...it is designed in lue of the resonator to quiet the engine down...so the air is not going from fender to filter to tb to engine but fender to resonator to airbox to filter to tb to engine...and causing 1 hell of a turbulance in the process. the vtcs spins the air...the airbox and resonator doesn't spin the air but mor like "Sloshes" the air. Removing the resonator helps the engine breathe...you will notice the gains out of vvt(Under 3000rpms) in your mpg. you will also touch the top end a lil bit but not alot. does anyone know if your 3i and 3s tb is electrionically controlled or liquid cooled?
 
reason I asked would explain the TB ground[4ga] in my sig...gimme a second and ill edit this with the link...
 
I removed mine this morning. First off, let me say. What a pain in the ass getting those 3 resonator housing bolts off of there. Jesus Christ. Aside from any troubles there, and a bit of finesing, I got the sucker out. I took her out for a little tester, and the sound is throaty and sucking like crazy for air. SOunds great. Seemed a tad more peppy when accelerating in 1st and 2nd gear. Could just be the sound makes it seem faster though. But at heart, the sound IS what I did this for, and it was well worth it. Sounds like its got some major balls under the hood now.
 

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