rear motor mount help..

PaulMP3

Contributor
:
Turbo MP3 #222, 00 Silverado Z71
I finally got all 3 top bolts off the mount, but i cant get the bolt of the side of the mount. I though that would be the easiest. If you have got the rear mount in can you tell me what wreches you used. I started to strip it so im gonna head to sears and get some other wrenches. I tried it with a pretty deep 17mm and a breaker bar. I cant find my damm 1'2 shallow 17mm. I think with that i will be able to get it. Im also gonna grab a 17mm open end wrench.

Any help:confused:
 
Paul,

The best combo is going to be a shallow 17mm 6 point socket (from my memory and how to work with the hoses and what not in the way).

Also, and this is what is probably messing you up. It's not like the front mount where the back side of the bolt is square and won't turn, there is a nut on the other side of it. You will need someone else's help to get under the car and use a 17mm wrench on the other side to hold the bolt while you turn on the transmission side with your socket. A breaker bar will probalby still be necessary.
 
thanks for the help, I quit for a while to watch a pathetic Eagle's game. Im gonna go out and try and find a store that is open that sells some wrenches.

I didnt relize the other bolt turned, maybe i will attack from that side b/c the other side is starting to get striped.
 
I watched the same game, Pats kicked butt finally. I am also working on the rear motor mount. Just got the bottom 10mm nut off the wiring harness. Only took me 2 separate trys!

Had to go back to Sears for a 1/2 inch universal joint to do the main bolts. Great placement by Mazda for the rear mount!

Sigh, wait for another day to tackle the bolts.
 
Finally!!!!! (mj)



it is in. Took me a while, but i knew i could do it. I ended up taking the bracket that held the mount to the engine off, and my midpipe of my exhaust. This way i could put the whole thing in my vise and undo the through bolt, and tighten the s*** out of it also.


the car seem to vibrate less then b4 at idle, but seems to shake quite a bit more around 1100rpms' where b4 it only shook under 1000rpm's:confused: I only took it for a quick spin, but everything feels real solid. I had a real nice launch from a stop light burning rubber with no wheel hop(thanks to awr motor mounts and LSD).

Hopefully they wear in a lil, but the car feels good.
 
Congrats Paul! Yeah it might have been easier for me if we took some of that stuff... oh well.

It will vibrate a ton at those lower rpms and more at idle at first, but give it about a week or two and it will settle in real nice. When I first got them both in, I wasn't sure I could deal with it on a daily basis, but the benefits far outweigh the cons and now that it has settled in a little bit more I am very happy with both mounts in.
 
a223818 said:
I watched the same game, Pats kicked butt finally. I am also working on the rear motor mount. Just got the bottom 10mm nut off the wiring harness. Only took me 2 separate trys!

Had to go back to Sears for a 1/2 inch universal joint to do the main bolts. Great placement by Mazda for the rear mount!

Sigh, wait for another day to tackle the bolts.


That bottom 10mm nut gave me a ton of trouble. I actually left the wire bracket off for now. Make sure you have a bunch of extensions(1/2&3/8) swivels, 17mm deep and shallow, and a 17mm open/close end wrench. I must have spent 30$ on sockets just for this damn mount :p. It always seems i never have the socket i need, i shuld just buy a new complete set that had 400+ pieces. I have a nice set but just never enough sizes. I also need some more air tools(impact wrench).

That eagles vs Pat game was hard to watch, the birds look like s***. I turned it off after the 3rd quarter.


This was my third time attempting the rear mount, finally sucessfull.
 
jrodhotrod said:

It will vibrate a ton at those lower rpms and more at idle at first, but give it about a week or two and it will settle in real nice. When I first got them both in, I wasn't sure I could deal with it on a daily basis, but the benefits far outweigh the cons and now that it has settled in a little bit more I am very happy with both mounts in.

I assume it will go a way a bit, it actually idles better than with just the front mount. My car feels more responsive and shifts much smoother when im in boost. Before sometime 1st to 2nd would be tough b/c of engine lash. Now its much smoother, My stock rear mount was ripped a lil and looked pretty worn.
 
Thanks for the info. I was getting frustrated with just the wiring harness and hadn't gotten to the main bolts yet.

Got all the sockets and joints, I hope. Will give it a try next weekend.

It was nice to see the Pats win, especially after getting pasted the week before at 31-0!!

I will let you know how I do.
 
good luck, take your time on the three top bolts, it is hard to get the socklet to sit straight and to apply the torque needed to loosen them.

The eagles have a bye week. hopefully they get the s*** together, McNabb couldn't throw the ball for his life.
 
paulmp3 said:
good luck, take your time on the three top bolts, it is hard to get the socklet to sit straight and to apply the torque needed to loosen them.

This is the best advice to give. The most difficult part is indeed getting the socket to sit straight on the bolt and getting the extensions up high enough to where you can apply enough torque to break them and tighten them down. Amazingly the little elbow joint that I had held up to torquing them down and breaking the bolts loose. I also cut the underside bolt from the wiring harness to give my deep throat socket the clearence it needed and since it was such a pain to get the nut off, knew I wasn't going to put it back on.

Just remember patience and the right combinations of extensions etc... are going to be the key.

Jared
 
congrats and welcome to the smart few with the rear mounts installed, I'm not only the president, I'm a member (g)
 
Thanks All. I have a long 1/2 extension and with the impact sockets, 1/2 universal joint and a long handle 1/2 rachet it should be fine.

I agree about breaking the lower bolt off for the wiring harness. It's in the way.

I bet McNabb was hurting after some of those sacks.

If you don't hear from me in a week or so, I died under the car ;}
 
jrodhotrod said:
Th I also cut the underside bolt from the wiring harness to give my deep throat socket the clearence it needed and since it was such a pain to get the nut off, knew I wasn't going to put it back on.

Just remember patience and the right combinations of extensions etc... are going to be the key.

Jared

i just took a really long screw driver, i had and bent it out of the way. I just pryed it off the mount.



congrats and welcome to the smart few with the rear mounts installed, I'm not only the president, I'm a member (g)

thanks:D I felt so relieved after it was all done.

I drove the car around tonite. I take back what i said about the idle, i feel like im in a GTO or an old muscle car. Once driving the mount is awesome, much more responsive and no engine lash when you let off the gas, Shifting is much smoother also. I am assuming that the shaking/rattling will stop soon or at least calm down. I dont have my wideband screwed down in my radio pocket and it is rattling like a b****, also my steering pod hasnt been glued down either and that rattles. Everything is rattling..:D I was thinking of removing it and drilling 3 or 4 1/8" holes in it to give it a lilttle play. Hopefully i dont have to. L
 
Give it a couple of weeks, things will settle in nicely, I still need play with dynamat and stuff to settle somethings down, but it's much better then it was at first.
 
Ok. After my third attempt, (really 2nd, I was just looking the 1st time), I finally got the rear mount in. It was a hell of a time. I was working by myself and could have used another pair of hands.

I was impressed with the responsiveness. Alot of the slack has gone. There is little vibration at idle but more when starting to let out the clutch. I will let it settle in for awhile.

Thanks for the info and help. It made it easier.
 
Ok. I have been running this for a week, and the noise and vibration are driving me batty.

I am going to pull it this weekend and put the old one back in.

Has anyone who put in the rear tried putting the original one back on the front and leaving the awr rear one in? I am going to try that first since the front one is easier to change.
 
Someone enlighten me please. I was under the impression that if you wanted to replace all of your front and rear motor mounts that you would to remove your engine. Is this true? Or can I replace both by myself?
 
I read the entire thread. It doesn't say anything about taking it out or not taking it out. It sounds like he didn't, but I wanted to clarify. Will just replacing the fronts help me?
 

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