rear motor mount help..

[ktm173]

I'd been meaning to post about running with just the rear AWR mount, so here's the chance...

History - I think I had one of the first sets of mounts from Tony to go on my '00 ES.

I put both of the mounts in at the same time - the rear I did by dropping the sub-frame (three hours later...)

The responsiveness was great, but with the defroster or AC on, it was shaking the dash to death. Since the rear was so hard to do, I put the factory front back in, using some rubber from plumbing connections to fill the voids (and large washers on either side to keep the rubber in)

The vibration went down just a bit, but you could tell the engine was moving a bit more.

Fast forward about 8-10 months laster... A clicking sound developed around the front foot area - I couldn't figure it out... Until it got worse and turned into a clunk in stop and go traffic. Guess what - th rear mount had separated - the material had ripped, leaving the flat mounting surface attached to the subframe, and the rest attached to the engine. Actually, the middle bolt had the material ripped around from it.

I then put the factory rear back in (from the top this time - much easier - just a pain to get the through bolt lined up.) and the AWR front back in. Idle and AC are much better, but strangely, 5-6.5k has more vibrations. You can tell the engine is moving much more - in fact, the AEM intake will hit the brake master cylinder sometimes (it was way worse with the factory mounts.)

I haven't contacted Tony yet to show him pictures of this - I'll try to take some and post them.

Sorry the the long post - but thoght others might like more input...

Kevin M.
'00 ES

 

[Reitrof]

ktm173

So you found the front original and rear AWR combo satisfactory? Or was there alot of low end vibration?

DrummingFrenzy

You do not have to remove the engine. Just change one at a time. We are talking about the front and rear that AWR sells. Not the 2 side mounts.

 

[ktm173]

ktm173

So you found the front original and rear AWR combo satisfactory? Or was there alot of low end vibration?
B]

Yes and no. When it was hot (Sacramento - 100+ some days) I'd have to turn the AC off at stop lights to disable the vibro-massage

It was not so bad that I wanted to take the rear out NOW, but it was on my 'to-do when I have some time to get really frustrated' list.

Really, I want something to go in between the AWR front/factory rear and the AWR rear/factory front. I'm hoping Kart Boy does do inserts - I'll be trying them.

Hope that helps,

Kevin

 

[DrummingFrenzy]

Thanks for the answers guys! So if I did it from what you guys are saying then I would just replace the fronts. Is it worth the vibrations on the high RPMS ktm? In other words, I want to increase throttle response and smooth out the shifting, but I don't want to sacrifice my ride that much.

 

[jrodhotrod]

Don't get too frustrated with both. Yes the car will vibrate more with both mounts, but give them a couple of weeks to work themselves in and make sure the through bolts are torqued down. My car you can really feel it vibrate when you turn it on, but after driving for about 10-15 minutes and the car warms up it's not really that bad anymore. I would never want to go back because it drives soooo much better now.

 

[ktm173]

Thanks for the answers guys! So if I did it from what you guys are saying then I would just replace the fronts. Is it worth the vibrations on the high RPMS ktm? In other words, I want to increase throttle response and smooth out the shifting, but I don't want to sacrifice my ride that much.

I expect the high RPM vibration is something else - I want to go back and loosen the through bolt on the rear, and the front bolts and re-tighten them to see if that removes that issue. I never noticed it with the rear mount (where I would have expect it to be magnified).

I suppose one test for me is to put the factory front back in and see if the vibration is still there...

Personally, I would replace the front - 10 minutes, and see how you like it. If it still flops around too much still, put in the rear, and then decide whether to run the front or not. There's a reason that Mazda Motorsports (and Protege5online, I assume) sells just the front mount.

Of course, I expect I'm older than most in this group (37 next week) and transport around two kids. Then again, I'm way too serious of an autocrosser (dare I say competing in a Honda?)...

Kevin

 

[DrummingFrenzy]

Do you have to torque the front? Is there a how-to on this anywhere?

 

[ktm173]

Do you have to torque the front? Is there a how-to on this anywhere?

Yep - only three bolts though. I have the Factory Service Manual, but have to say that the last few times I've done it by feel, rather than a click The through bolt is a pain to get much movement on, particulary if you have the factory intake on. With my short AEM, it's easier to remove that than to curse at it. Hmm - are MSP's harder to get at?

Not sure on any how-to on this or the other Protege board.

Kevin

 

[DrummingFrenzy]

Thanks Kevin. Forgive me for my questions, but I'm more of a sound tech then an engine tech. What's the best tool to torque these with?

 

[ktm173]

Thanks Kevin. Forgive me for my questions, but I'm more of a sound tech then an engine tech. What's the best tool to torque these with?

A torque wrench. (you knew that was coming, right? The factory bolts are 17mm, I belive - you'll want a deep 17 socket, preferably 1/2" drive - the through bolt was very tight the first time I took it off. A breaker bar is the best to get them lose. Of course, air tools will always work

You can do all three with a wrench, but you may have troubles breaking them lose - I've certainly used the trick of a second wrench on the open end of the first one to get more leverage. Of course, that may spread the open end, so beware.

The AWR bottom two nuts are 3/4" (19mm).

Kevin - hoping I answered your question!

 

[DrummingFrenzy]

Perfectly. I figured that's what I would use, but I don't want to assume anything when it comes to...my own....my precious....

 

[Reitrof]

ktm173

I am going to try the orig front with the awr rear and see how that goes. Thanks for the info

jrodhotrod


I did torque them down to specs and have been using them for about a week putting on 8o miles a day and have not noticed much of a change. Highway is bearable but around town in lower RPM's the dash vibrates like crazy. My wife noticed it and if she does it has to be bad.

Thanks for the inout, I will let you know what happens

 

[PaulMP3]

Don't get too frustrated with both. Yes the car will vibrate more with both mounts, but give them a couple of weeks to work themselves in and make sure the through bolts are torqued down. My car you can really feel it vibrate when you turn it on, but after driving for about 10-15 minutes and the car warms up it's not really that bad anymore. I would never want to go back because it drives soooo much better now.

i agree with what he says, but mine seem to be good after about 5 mins. it is just starting the car and the first time you move that the vibration is bad. Once driving the mounts are wonderful. My shifts seem easier at high rpms also.

 

[Reitrof]

Well I swapped out the front AWR for the original and left the rear AWR in. First impressions after a short drive is better. Seems tighter than the front AWR and rear original. I will let you know more after I live with it for a few days.

 

[PaulMP3]

sounds good. I am afaid i will have to take it out in the winter. i might window weld my stock rear and put it in for the winter

 

[Reitrof]

Sigh, Ok took it out for a further spin and the dash still vibrates and it is annoying. On the highway it is better but get some droning.

So I swapped the AWR rear out and put the original back in. I put the AWR front on and pulled the original front out.

So I am back to the AWR front and orig rear and the ride is much better. I was getting a lot of clutch chatter with the rear AWR. The clutch is smooth again.

I miss the crisp shifting with the rear AWR in but day to day is just drove me nuts.

I think I will try the MSP mount (blue dot) and see if that helps. It loks like an easier swap than the rear!!

Anybody want to buy a rear AWR mount?