Rear end skipping around a corner...

Rogue

Red 5 Standing by
Contributor
:
2003 MSP
Sometimes (mostly on sharp uphill corner) the backend of my car will skip/bounce around the corner. What would cause that? I'm running the TEIN SS with dampening set at 4 in front and rear (1=hard, 16=soft). I also have the AWR 21.5mm rear sway bar. It's set about 3in from the open end.

is my dampending too hard or too soft? On a flat corner, i can get the rear to slide out...it's just weird having it bounce/skip.

Thanx
(2thumbs)
 
It sounds like you just have it overdamped. You're probably getting some rear wheel lift also. Softening it up will probably help/fix it.
 
no, the P5, as well as all protegs, have independent rear suspensions
 
Assuming that you are running the same air pressures F+R, the rear needs to be softened up.

Or you can firm up the fronts.

It depends on:
If you are braking at that point?
If the curve is off camber [slopes away from the inside of the turn]?
Dirt?

I like the rear to slide out too but only under controlled braking or with lift throttle oversteer [my preference].
 
i do get the throttle lift oversteer, but on occassion it bounced instead of slid. Now that you mention it, it may have been an off-camber corner...
 
Mine did the same thing when I installed the 450lbs springs on my Tokigo blue struts. It mostly went away when I put the Mazdaspeed adjustables on. It's probably a dampening problem.
 
You need to either soften up the rears

or...

You need to stiffen up the fronts


I would suggest that you soften up the rear a bit. Your rear sway bar could be a bit too stiff as well but I'd start with the dampers first.
 
ugh...to adjust the rear dampening i have to remove all the plastic bits...
 
The "cheater" way is to either increase air pressure say by 1 or 2 psi to the fronts, or lower the rears by the same amount.

As long as you don't go below 32psi for street driving.

You shouldn't have to do that since you do have adjustible suspension....
 
Rogue Pro5 said:
ugh...to adjust the rear dampening i have to remove all the plastic bits...


All the plastic bits? To do my illuminas there is only 2 snap in pieces (the tops) that need to come off. What's different with the tiens? Takes me like 30 seconds to do both rears...(uhm)
 
On my ol' 626, I had the whole suspension set up from a Probe GT and I had inherited the thicker springs on the rear, which means i couldn't run 32 psi on the rear or the tail end would come out fairly quickly on off camber corners. I had to run no less than 28 psi rear and 34 psi front. But I also wasn't crazy enough to get adjustable coil overs due to problems like that. Soften up your rear to like 12 and keep playing with it from there making it firmer and firmer until it's at the point that you feel like you're nearing the handling limit ( I recomend that you do this in an abandoned shopping plaza or empty parking lot) . It's gonna take a minute, but when you find the right setting, it will be worth it. It would be even better if you did the right thing with coil overs and get the suspension weight balanced so you won't have to worry about this problem
 
Your rear sway bar is to big

To much rear sway bar. The stiffer the rear, the less traction (although it's an good cheap way to eliminate understeer). Try a 19mm instead as it's a straight forward change. Changing springs effects other things and is harder to balance, in general, but since your dampening is adjustable you should be able to dial it in with the other suggestions here.

Rogue Pro5 said:
Sometimes (mostly on sharp uphill corner) the backend of my car will skip/bounce around the corner. What would cause that? I'm running the TEIN SS with dampening set at 4 in front and rear (1=hard, 16=soft). I also have the AWR 21.5mm rear sway bar. It's set about 3in from the open end.

is my dampending too hard or too soft? On a flat corner, i can get the rear to slide out...it's just weird having it bounce/skip.

Thanx
(2thumbs)
 
Last edited:
Move the end blocks on your swaybar to the rear of the bar so the blocks are flush with the end of the bar , as saidbefore decress the damping of the strut in the rear ,increase the damping up front ,but dont make all the changes at once . Make the changes on at a time ,go for a drive ,make another drive the same road . Any time you make an adjustment use the same road that way you can tell if your changes did what you wanted them to do .
 

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