Re-inforced a stock rear mount with 80 duro urethane (no window-weld!)

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'02 Honda S2000
I was initially thinking of doing that window-weld mod on the stock rear engine mount, but after looking at how-tos, I decided not to bother with a mod that deals with so much mess. I got 80 durometer polyurethane samples from a friend and started making strips for the voids on the rear mount. It can handle -40 to 200F, and has a tensile strength of +3500 psi. It should be good for a rear mount bushing :)

I don't have a lot to work with so I cut small pieces for a test fit. So far so good. Glad to have KeisukeM's stock rear mount to play with. It's quite snug, as I used a mallet to push the pieces in. I have a full "strip" that I put away to completely fill the void on the engine side. I probably have to remove a little bit off the middle of the strip to clear that "nubbin". I half-assed the cut on the firewall side cause my other sample is an inch thick. Gotta work more on that.

1st day Initial driving impressions vs Stock vs AWR 70D:
- Vibrations on pedals/steering wheel/seats/cabin while A/C is on [idle at a stop light]:
- stock: NO
- bean: NO
- awr: YES

- Vibrations on pedals/steering wheel/seats/cabin around 800-1100 RPM:
- stock: NO
- bean: NO
- awr: YES

- Finessing the clutch starting from a stop:
- stock: YES
- bean: NO
- awr: NO

- Finessing the clutch during an up-shift:
- stock: YES
- bean: NO
- awr: NO

- Car bucking during an up-shift:
- stock: YES
- bean: NO
- awr: NO

- Vibration during reverse [at a certain rpm]:
- stock: NO (not a lot)
- bean: YES
- awr: YES, LOTS

- Wheel hop/bogging during a hard launch:
- stock: YES
- bean: REDUCED (managed to chirp several times even with the A/C on)
- awr: REDUCED

- That annoying "nudge" then bog when you skip a gear
- stock: YES
- bean: NO
- awr: NO

- That grunt when you start the car (my favorite :) )
- stock: NO
- bean: YES
- awr: YES

- Cost:
- stock: $0
- bean: ~$20
- awr: ~$85


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Black_Protege_5, that'd be great-- i wanna see how a protege handles at rocky peak :)

I've been wanting to do this since i sold my mount. driving 7 months with a full urethane mount then going back to stock? It was as bad as having a header-back then going back to the stock exhaust.

I was looking into using that 3M window weld that honda and dsm people use. That was not for me.

Dealing with tubes, mixing, using a caulk gun, mess, down time--- had to stay away from that. Which is why I wanted to work with pieces instead. This way, I easily get to put them in with a mallet and remove them just as easily.

No waiting for the mount to cure for a day or two while the other to mounts hold the engine in place. I can always upgrade to a stronger or softer duro later on. Once you filll in your stock mount, well, you're stuck with it until you find another owner willing to sell his.

With this easier mod: you keep the stock mount intact, future upgradability, while still keeps costs down.
 
i got them from a local friend. i was also notified by a member that you can get sheets of them from ebay as well.

i pulled the test pieces and cut larger pieces to cover more of the void's depth and to protrude outside to better "cushion" the core. Oddly enough, my old test pieces were still as strong as they were the day I put them in.

Someone tried 95A pieces for the firewall side and he seems to like them a lot compared to his AWR 70 duro. So if I were you, I'd suggest 80 or above. 95A if your fingers are strong enough to put to put them in.


here are my new pieces:
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