Ram Air Mod for CAI

If 8" is to wide, I found a 6" wide one.

http://www.totalvac.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=totalvac&Product_Code=SVR-5200ES&Category_Code=shopvac25hoses
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Technically, it still isn't ram air... but I agree that you probably do end up with a little bit cooler intake charge (which would explain the cooler manifold, etc.). To be true ram air, you would actually develop a level of boost... like a turbo (although only 1 psi or so). An easy way to tell if you've got a ram air setup is to check your vacuum/boost gauge (if you have one). My guess is that you don't, because there are too many "holes" to develop any kind of real pressure at speed. Nonetheless, I did the mod myself and am happy with it :)

Protege_Speed said:
I have to say that some of you may not think my setup is ram air but I may have to disagree. I get a very good amount of air to come in the grill but what really tops it off is that I have that directional duct inside that points right at the filter. This duct acts like a velocity stack that increases the air flow rate pointing in direction instead of being diffused. Don't get me wrong, I definitely believe the other styles allow for cooler air but I still think you need to have something that collects the air and increases its velocity to force the air into the filter. I know my setup definitely works (for my ES at least) because after driving on a 80 degree day, I was able to put my hand on my intake manifold without having to remove it. Like I posted above the CAI pipes were cold as well. I guess it also helps to bypass the coolant that goes throught the TB which I have done already.
 
viVid said:
Technically, it still isn't ram air... but I agree that you probably do end up with a little bit cooler intake charge (which would explain the cooler manifold, etc.). To be true ram air, you would actually develop a level of boost... like a turbo (although only 1 psi or so). An easy way to tell if you've got a ram air setup is to check your vacuum/boost gauge (if you have one). My guess is that you don't, because there are too many "holes" to develop any kind of real pressure at speed. Nonetheless, I did the mod myself and am happy with it :)

Excellent post...To keep terminology accurate; what you guys are making are more commonly known as "fresh" air intakes...It is EXTREMELY difficult to build a street driving ram air setup...mostly because of filter elements...In order for it to be a true ram air intak, the entire track has to be sealed, and sealed enough for up to 2psi of boost or so...The absolute only unsealed area, by definition, is the intake opening...The entire setup works by creating a high pressure gradient directly at the throttle body (and at the intake valves at WOT)...obviously this only happens at large speeds...and it also only works properly if the surface area of the intake is much larger than the TB...overall it is extremely hard to make this setup for a street driven car, where lowend torque is always necessary, to have any benefit from building pressure...

The entire term is misleading also, because you are only getting the pressure benefit at 100mph+ usually...where you are racing hopefully...and street needed filtering hinders pressure increases also...(the most efficient and affective ram air systems usually do not even use a filter...and if so they are very thin and porous designed only to catch track debris)

So don't get me wrong...I am not trying to pick you guys apart...this excellent work you guys are doing is honestly more beneficial for the entire powerband and speeds at which your street driven cars are operating...just trying to clarify what a "real" ram air setup is composed of...
 
Well, I guess it's not exactly "ram air" but to feel an performance increase with this mod makes me extremely happy no matter what you call it. Maybe "True Cold Air" is better. Has anyone else notice a huge difference with the throttle after doing this mod? You might need to bypass the coolant through the TB to get the full effect.
 
had you considered a pre-filter??? i know unifilter make these... they are prefilters, which have a very open weave to them foam filters, and will block water quite well
 
Ok... bypassed the coolant lines for the T/B this afternoon... first time I really inspected the inside of the t/b. I don't know alot about volume/velocity of air when it comes to IMs, but it would seem to me that polishing the t/b would be advantageous. It's quite rough on the inside. I know that water pipes that are polished on the inside reduce the friction coeffecient up to 25% or so... how would this affect the air velocity? I've read that without research and tuning that boring the t/b and/or IM can be counter-productive, is there a way simply polishing could hurt?
 
another quick question...

If polishing the t/b helped only with velocity, couldn't this be beneficial in restoring some of the low-end stripped away by bolt-on mods? (CAI, Header, free flowing exhaust)
 
polishing the tb will help yes, but the down side is that you might make the tb and butterfly plate no match up properly (ie create gaps which allow air through and screw with your idle). admittantly it wouldnt be a huge difference, but it is possible.

what you'd be best off doing is getting it bored, getting it polished to a mirror finish (using a machine to keep it round as possible) and then getting the butterfly made up to fit perfectly.
 

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