Rail Dust/ Rust Spots on my Mazda 5 - white pearl

alvin

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Mazda 5 GT 2006, Pearl White
I've noticed over the past few months that my Mazda 5 (06) in white pearl is getting these little rail dust/rust spots. I've searched on line and everyone mentions to use a clay bar. I live in Toronto and for the life of me haven't been able to locate a retailer that sells this- Canadian Tire, Walmart - they are all clueless. I only hand wash my car and have tried for hours to remove them, chipping finger nails...etc.

Is there some type of home made or off the shelf product that can be used?. I recall a few years back I was at a car detailing shop and the guy that was working on detailing mentioned that he used some type of off the shelf product like a lysol or mr. clean to take it off and it did the trick - anyone have any clues or thoughts to this?. Thoughts on this point?

I'm concerned that if I do not remove these spots off they will turn into real rust spots and damage the paint and cause thousands of dollars in damage. Thoughts on this second point?

C
 
whoooooooa dont scratch or chip at your paint XD

yeah you should be able to get a claybar kit at your local auto parts place. if not check autogeek.net or autopia.org and they have kits there

claybar is the only way to remove those impurities.
 
and I learned the hard way, in case you never used a claybar before... LUBRICATE! If you rub the clay over the car without lubricant, it'll just like smear and won't be pretty. Kit should come with a bottle, but if it doesn't, use Meguiars Quik Detailer spray or similar... Pam and KY won't work ;)

But used properly, clarbar kicks ass. You wouldn't believe the crud that stuff picks up with minimal effort. Your car will be smooth as glass when your done. (thumb)
 
you can make your own clay lubricant by mixing a tiny bit of car wash with alot of water.

OR

you can clay as you wash. this has to be done in cool weather under shade. if not the paint will be to hot, and will streak, and you wont get anything done.
 
Alvin, Im from toronto too and owns a white M5 am also seeing this problem especiall after cleaning winter grime. I have talked to my mazda dealer (Ajax Mazda) and they say that I should mention this on my next visit, they say Im covered for this . I dont know what they plan to do though. Another problem I have is stone chips on the windshield, theres about 7-10 small ones about 1-2 mm in size, is it ok to just let it go or should I get it fixed by NUVO.
 
every car has rust spots on the back. its just more noticeable on a white car because the color stands out much more.

the dealership cant do anything about it. it has to be clayed off.

i had this problem on both my white 6 and my white oldsmobile. so its a problem with all cars not just the 5
 
Just as others said, Claybar to the rescue.

My brand says to use car soap and water because some lubricants can make the clay fall apart (my Mothers brand claybar did just that)

I just did this on Sunday. Wash, claybar, polish, wax. I was worn out! Then we drove in the rain. So much for clean black car. ;) But it beads water like no tomorrow now! I bet it was never waxed before.
 
I've noticed over the past few months that my Mazda 5 (06) in white pearl is getting these little rail dust/rust spots. I've searched on line and everyone mentions to use a clay bar. I live in Toronto and for the life of me haven't been able to locate a retailer that sells this- Canadian Tire, Walmart - they are all clueless. I only hand wash my car and have tried for hours to remove them, chipping finger nails...etc.

Is there some type of home made or off the shelf product that can be used?. I recall a few years back I was at a car detailing shop and the guy that was working on detailing mentioned that he used some type of off the shelf product like a lysol or mr. clean to take it off and it did the trick - anyone have any clues or thoughts to this?. Thoughts on this point?

I'm concerned that if I do not remove these spots off they will turn into real rust spots and damage the paint and cause thousands of dollars in damage. Thoughts on this second point?

C

CLAY BAR is all you need as mentioned... bring it to the dealer the detailer will be able to deal with the rail dust or brake dust.
 
dont bring it to a dealer, they dont do that kind of work there, and they probably dont do it properly. clay is a time consuming job when done right.

either find a local detailer near you (easy if you join autopia.org, and post a request in the regional section) or do it yourself. its very easy, and its a good thing to learn
 
Hey TJ - I too purchased my 5 from Ajax mazda, I did not contact them because of the searches I did on the internet and about the dealers not covering this or if they did, that they would not do a good job of removing it. I will probably to another Canadian Tire and see if they carry the clay bar. Your stone chips on the windshield are gonna be tough to fix if you keep waiting, especially with the climate/temperature changes from freezing to the warm weather we're about to get. I would suggest you go to apple autoglass right away.

I've also noticed that my 5 takes a while to get warmed up so that the heat starts to work - I'm not sure what everyone else experiences but compared to my honda civic it takes twice as long. I usually turn the car on and then drive slowly to get it warmed up (I dont' gas it out of the driveway) I then time it by driving thru my streets and when I get to a certain street it then starts to shoot the warm air out and the temperature needle starts to rise from the "C". My civic though is usually warmed up halfway thru this route that I take thru the streets. Thoughts?.
 
I've also noticed that my 5 takes a while to get warmed up so that the heat starts to work -.....and when I get to a certain street it then starts to shoot the warm air out and the temperature needle starts to rise from the "C". My civic though is usually warmed up halfway thru this route that I take thru the streets. Thoughts?.
What you're describing with your heat sounds like normal behavior for the ACC (Automatic Climate Control). It's programmed to do this. There's no point in blowing cold air on you before the heating coils are hot, so it only turns the fan progressively stronger as more hot air is available. Plus, by not continuously passing cold outside air through while the coils try to heat up, it creates a pocket of hot air which actually lets it get up to operating temp quicker. Other makes/models with ACC's do this too. I never tried it, but I assume you could override this by cranking up the fan speed in manual mode if you wanted to.
 
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^^ LOL, it is normal indeed. I think the issue is psychological (the fan noise may create a heating illusion :D). My wife gets all pissed off at this, she says that with her car she could crank the fan to "4" w/o warming up, to what I just replied: "...and what is the point if it just gonna blow freakin' ice cubes until it warms up?" (yes)
 

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